I am waiting the arrival of my first kit which is aSabre 86 model plane. I intend to paint it a bare metal colour and another member suggested Tamiya Acrylic Bare Metal colour. I was going to apply a great or white undercoat. Grey might be a bit too much like the Bare Metal and more harder to see the coverage. Also I have read articles about getting a good metallic finish by using a black undercoat. Tamiya dont have a black undercoat but they do have a Black Acrylic Matt finish paint. Would you think that would work ok. Also would the prime or black coat require a little sandpapering with very fine grade paper prior to applying the final coat.

Your best bet for an undercoat for a metallic finish is gloss black. You can use the flat black to show you those places which are still rough and need more sanding, but the last coat before the metallic ought to be gloss black, as smooth as you can get it. Metallic finishes reveal every flaw so you want the model to be glass smooth before you apply them.

A nifty trick is to use gloss grey or blue on select panels. If your metallic coat is thin enough, the colouring will show through and make the final finish look more realistic.

Thanks Jessica, Yes I did a bit of reading on that. When I said metallic I am actually intending to use Tamiya Acrylic paint. I am still undecided as to the exact colour. I am tossing up between Gloss Aluminium acrylic, Bare Metal acrylic and titanium silver acrylic. Now favouring the Aluminium Gloss acrylic. It may not be that real or authentic as I read where the Sabre 86 had differing colour metal panels. But I saw another one which the builder said would look like after restoration. So assuming I chose the Acrylic Gloss Aluminium would your comments as to the black gloss under still apply. Would the top coast adhere to the black gloss underneath?

Probably. If you're not sure, give it a try on a test model first.

Hi Jesse. Sorry for asking so many questions but I am new to this. If I put a flat black acrylic coat, then a gloss black acrylic coat and then 2 or three acrylic silver coast it seems to me that would be building up a bit of paint. Wouldnt that have a tendency to file in the various panel lines etc. If I applied the black flat coat and then identified the imperfections, filled those or sanded back high parts etc and then sanded off the flat black and then just applied the acrylic gloss black and then applied the silver coats. Would that be a sensible technique.

Honestly I've never tried that. It might work, as long as you make certain to polish out all the sanding marks and clean the residue out of the panel lines.

Thanks again Jesse. I appreciate your help. I will give it a try and let you know how it went

Laurie,
Forget about using Tamiya's Flat Aluminum acrylic paint for a NMF, as it dries way too grainy due to the large pieces of pigments in the paint. You can get those pigments to reduce in size by using Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (yellow cap) instead of their X20-A (white cap). Still, the results will be sub par.

I wouldn't suggest a NMF for your 1st build, as there are just more steps to the process, but it's certainly doable, and not much harder.

After you build the F-86-30 (the Academy kit in 1/48 scale), carefully prime all the seams with a gray primer. I Generally like to use Tamiya's as it's lacquer based, and goes on quite thin. You'll see any defects that have to be dealt with. Then prime again. Once you're happy with the results, lightly sand the primer with #600, then polish the model with grades to 12,000. Wash with Iso Alcohol.

You're now ready for the NMF. I would strongly suggest you use Alcad 11 lacquer based paints for this. Two shades of Aluminum plus their Gloss Black primer, which is enamel based is enough to start with. Neither their primer nor their metal finishes need to be thinned. Apply the primer in light even passes. It will slowly build up to a smooth super shiny surface. Let it dry for a few days. Then apply the main color of metalizer you're using. Let that dry a day. Then mask with Tamiya tape detacked by 1st applying to your forearm. It won't remove any of the metalizer. Then mist on the next color. You can mix to make more colors. Just remember not to make them too different.

I'm not a big fan of masking the various panels and priming in different colors. You'll end up with raised panel lines that have to be dealt with.

You can go to the Alcad site and read about their products and applications. And you can do some google searches including U tube. There are more vids out there then you can watch. There is also an excellent Alcad tutorial right here on Aeroscale:

painting with Alcads

One nice thing about Alcads is that you can decal right on top of them without a gloss coat.

Joel

Thanks a lot Joel. One of the problems I have is that I dont think I will be getting the Paasche H airbrush and a compressor for a little while so I was going to use a spray can paint on this model. Even spray paints are a problem on the Gold Coast as there are no hobby shops here so I have to rely on online Hobby stores and there are restrictions on shipping spray paints by air. Tamiya seems the only brand I can find who put out a spray can and it appears it is a synthetic lacquer. I assume synthetic lacquer is different to acrylic paint. I googled and saw an explanation that synthetic lacquers are lacques that use chemical resins instead of natural resins. Or is synthetic lacquer just the same as acrylic? Maybe I will have to wait until I get the airbrush and use the paint you suggested on the next model to obtain that NMF.
As I will be using a spray can on this model have you any suggestions. When you suggest I dont try to get a NMF on this model I assume I could try and get a BMF or are your comments applicable to all the Tamiya silver colours. I see Tamiya has a Bare Metal Colour spray can. This paint was previously recommended by Fred Boucher who also suggested RubnBuff. I can buy RubnBuff silver locally and I contacted the manufacturer who said it can be covered with an acrylic clear finish. Maybe that is an alternative?

http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/tamiya-as-12-bare-metal-silver/

.

Hi Keith
Been doing a bit more researching. See this model where the modeler used Tamiya TS Aluminium out of a spray can
http://modelingmadness.com/scott/korean/us/usaf/f100d.htm

I see that Tamiya has AS Paints which appear to be acrylic paints and TS paints which appear to be synethetic lacquers.
Do your above comments similarly apply to the TS paints?
I had a look at the Alclad 11 paints you referred to. I am able to buy them in Australia so as soon as I get my airbrush gear I will use them. Sound really good

Laurie,
Tamiya rattle cans are indeed lacquer based, and you can get a nice finish with them. Here's some issues that you should be aware of.

Rattle cans put out a lot of paint. Control is only by distance to model and speed of passes. You will end up wasting a lot of paint. Also, you will run out of the gas propellant before you run out of paint. It's just the nature of aerosols.

It's very difficult to paint small confined areas.

Masked areas will have quite a high edge that will have to be dealt with.

Not sure how you can effectively deal with color variation for the different panels, unless you switch brands of paint.

As far as using Rub n Buff, which is a mild metal polish, you can use any car polishing compound lightly on damp rag or Q tip. I use to use Tamiya rattle cans to paint model race car bodies because nothing gives a gloss finish like lacquer, and got an excellent finish using polishing compound then carnauba wax. I also use polishing pads from 4,000 to 12,000 grit which works wonders both on raw plastic and on paint.

Testors also puts out a line of model paints in cans. I believe that they're also lacquer based. They come in both automotive colors and FS colors, as well as Dullcoat and Glosscoat in rattle cans, so you won't have any issues with clear coating.

Now I don't want you to think that I don't like or don't use Tamiya rattle cans, because I do. I have their gray primer, flat black, semi gloss black, gloss black, flat white, and gloss white. I use them when I have a few small parts to paint and just don't want to bother with my airbrush.

Every online company I deal with has restrictions on shipping paints and flammables. Some products can't even be shipped by air. And almost none can be shipped out of the lower 48 states. There are a few excellent Australian modelers that I know of that have great modeling sites, forums, etc. They and or their sites would be a great resource for you when it comes to supplies. Here's Gary Wickham from Sidney's site:

scalespot.com

Joel

Thanks again Joel and for the link to Gary Wickham I will send him an email and introduce myself. I just ordered my Paasche H from the USA. I got one for $92 including shipping which is the best deal I could find. Might sound a bit dear to you but supplies in Australia seem limited and those available seem to charge very high prices. But if you look online and buy from USA you get hit with the shipping costs which sometimes can be $50. Anyway the Paasche comes with a metal paint cup, two paint bottles, a couple of tips, airhose and a couple of wrenches. I was about to buy one a bit cheaper from another site and I always do a fair bit of research before I commit. The seller was on Ebay and had a 99.3% rating. I just checked out the negative feedback from their customers and there were quite a few that said that the site advertises items for sale and then you order and pay and then they tell you it is not in stock and you have a lot of trouble getting a refund. So I was concerned about this and sent them an email asking for assurance that they have it in stock. Well they sent me back and email and said yes it is in stock and then gave me a link to the product. It was the wrong model so I started to get suspicious so found another buyer. Hopefully no problems.
I found a very informative guide to airbrushing. Here is the link. You may be able to put it in the right place for any newcomers who I am sure will find it very informative.
https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home
Again thanks for your help everyone

Laura,
Congratulations on your decision to buy a Paasche H airbrush. Just one stupid question. Wouldn't it be cheaper and faster to have purchased it from one of the major Japanese online dealers? They always seem to have great deals, and free shipping.

Have you decided on a compressor yet?

You got the full kit, which is a good thing. It comes with 3 needle/cone/tips: 1, 3,& 5. #3 is what you'll be using 90% of the time. #1 for fine detail work, and most likely you'll never use #5 unless for a special application of a thicker type paint or weathering product.

Honestly, I only changed the tip once. Now I just leave the #3 tip attached when I use the #1 needle and cone. Guess I'm just lazy, but I've never seen a difference to warrant changing it.

Use the cup over the little bottles. The main reason is that you have to mix a lot more paint to use them. When I do use them, like when I painted to top surface of the F-4B, I ended up with extra paint. I bought a few extra paint bottles with full screw lids from a art store, so I save the paint. I never pour thinned paint back into the stock paint bottle.

Looking forward to your build and your experiences with the Paasche H airbrush. You're going to love it.

Joel

Hi Joel
I trolled ebay and there were no sellers from Japan for the Paasche. Plenty of the other generic types. I Only found one better price and after reading the negatives comments from buyers I was a bit cautious. Many said that they found an item on the website and paid for it and then were told that it wasnt in stock and had trouble getting a refund. So I sent the seller an email asking if the Paasche H was in stock. I got a reply that said yes it was in stock and had a link to the item. I clicked the link and found it wasnt the "H" but some other model. I sent another email saying that was not the model I was after and after another day they sent another email saying it was in stock. In the meantime I had purchased it elsewhere for $7 more.
Hobbyists in Australia just have to live with that. We have to pay more. The models and parts etc can be purchased from Asia and as you say most give free postage or low postage. But I am always a bit wary of the gear from China. They are great at faking and if you have problems they are hard to correspond with.
I havent decided on a compressor yet. I have looked at a few on ebay from Asia and reviewed them and there are a lot of bad reviews. I am looking locally at a few. I have sent Gary Wickham an email but hasnt replied yet. He will have a good idea of what type and where to buy it.
Thanks for your tips on the use of the bottles. I did read that it is bad to put the thinned paint back into the source bottle. In the article about airbrushes that I put in the above post he has a section on how to preserve your paint. It is not cheap and I imagine some colours lay unused for some time. Taping the lids seems to be a preferred practice.
I am going to buy a few basic colours and build up as needed. There are a few deals on Ebay for 10 bottles of Tamiya etc. Have you any suggestions for what brand and maybe some base colours that are frequently used?

Terri,
I've bought some decals from China, but that's about it. I was referring to Hobby link Japan http://www.hlj.com/ they have just about everything you could ever want model wise, and at great prices. Buying in bulk will save you, and they always seem to have specials. I've bought from them a few times several years ago, and had no issues. I got my orders within 2 weeks time. Now my #1 online resource is Sprue Brothers with 24 hour real time shipping.

As for a compressor, I don't have one made for modelers. I bought a name brand general air compressor from Home Depot which is a national home improvement chain. I paid $175 for it, and it works perfectly for modeling. It's a little nosey, but it was more then a $100 less then the model specific one my brother bought. And yes it does run quieter. Then again, I use mine for other household functions.

Hopefully Gary will get back to you soon.

For paints, I started off and still do buy what I need for my next build. Since you're starting off, you'll need to buy most of the basic colors needed to do the cockpit, cockpit seats, belts, etc., wheels, and gear struts. Start with one brand of acrylic paint: Tamiya to make your life easier to start with. Buy one 250 ml bottle Tamiya X20-A to thin your Tamiya paints. Stay away from 70% denature Iso Alcohol to start with. You'll thank me later. Once you get your feet wet, I will give you a homemade blend that comes very close to X20-A, as it's more then ISO Alcohol. Nothing in it is expensive or hard to get. If smell isn't an issue, also buy a 250 ml bottle of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. And lastly a bottle of their grey lacquer primer.

You will also need a clearcoat and Dullcoat. I use Testors Dullcoat which is lacquer based. I use Future/Pledge for gloss coating.

If you're going to be doing a natural metal finish to start with, do you want to use Alcads, or a rattle can?

Joel

Thanks I will check out those sites. We have a Bunnings shop in Australia and a Masters (which I think is USA based) I think they would be the same as Home Depot. I will check them out. At least when you buy from the local stores they will take it back and replace if it malfunctions.
As to the Sabre I dont think i will have the compressor nor the airbrushing skills at that stage so I will probably go with the rattle can.

Laurie,
You're are the right track. Will be following your F-86-30 build once you start it.
Joel