Hi again, after a long silence now asking the favor of advices en wood efect. I have an Albatros DV that I wish to paint like wood.

Cheers.

Al

Alfredo,

Refer to this excellent Aeroscale article:

https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&page=1&artid=3009

Cheers,
Joe

Alfredo,
I've tried this method in the link Joe posted and it works everytime. Patience is the key and remember oils take much longer than traditional modelling paints to dry out. I found it helpful to put any parts coated with oil paint inside a plastic box (ice cream tub for example) to keep them free from dust.
Practice first on scrap plastic or cheaper models before committing to your project.
I'm no master at it, but I find I'm using it on a lot of projects where I need to model something made from wood!

Looking forward to seeing your Albatros.
Stephen.

Thanks a lot for the advice!!! I will try

Alfredo, here's my latest wood grain paint job. A prop for Revells 1/72 Airco DH.2.


Took less than 10 minutes to do. The photo has shown up a piece of fluff stuck to one tip so I'll have to get rid of that.

Stephen

Lots of variations can be done with the basic technique.... artist oils over acrylic. A tiny bit of Japan Dryer mixed in the oils will drastically reduce drying time.

Might I suggest an alternative to traditional oils. Winsor and Newton produce a range of artists oils called Griffin Alkyd's. These are much quicker drying than traditional oils (can take less than a few hours for some colours and for thin washes but they have all the same characteristics as traditional oils. They use an Alkyd medium similar if not exactly the same as the medium used in enamels. (You can buy the medium(called liquin) separately in three different versions(Detail/standard and Gel) to thin them out and it smells remarkably like the Humbrol type (this is the oily stuff that is at the top of the tin of enamel before you stir it)
Of course the major difference between these and the Enamels we use on our models is that the pigments are selected for transparency rather than opacity meaning they provide you with paint that can be built up in layers to give the effect of wood/oil/soot etc.

One note is that, like using any paint it is better to use the liquin to make thin washes rather than using turps or white spirit as the liquin is (like the oily stuff in the enamel tins) the thing that actually sticks the pigment to the model.

I've seen those Alklyd paints and often wondered if they could be of use in modelling. Think I might have to buy a tube and give it a bash.
Thanks.

I certainly have found them to work well, especially for wood effects using ochres and umbers. I did a little research at the time I decided to try them for painting on canvases as I found it tedious waiting for weeks for oils to dry before you could get on with another layer on your artwork. As far as I can make out the vehicle is basically the same Alkyd resin that is used in enamels and any kind of commercially available "oil based" paints. I have used the Griffin "Liquin Detail medium" to thin down Humbrol paints when they have been too "gloopy" and there have been no negative effects.