Hi All,

When returning to modeling a few years back, I decided to start with armor, as I figured tanks and armored vehicles would be more 'forgiving' of less than perfect modeling techniques. I never have returned to aircraft models, which were my first love when I was a kid. Someday I would love to try my hand at a vintage airplane. What would you knowledgeable folks suggest as one (if not the) 'easiest' Wingnuts kit to start with? Again, I have built several tank kits, including a bunch of photo etch, and have an airbrush, do reasonably well with painting, and have a ton of weathering items, including pigments, etc. Is there a 'best' kit for me, or are there ones i should stay away from until I get better airplane skills? Thanks!

I have not built any WNW Kits, but I a have built a lot of WW1 and 'Golden Age' biplanes.

The two things that give most people pause in biplane Modeling are, aligning/mounting the upper wing, and rigging. So I would start with the Fokker Eindekker ( only one wing to contend with), the Roland C.II whose both wings are mounted directly to the fuselage with only one set of Interplane struts, or A Fokker D.VII or Pfalz D.XII which have 'N' shaped Interplane struts which make it easier to get the correct stagger of the upper wing.

Others who have built WNW kits will have more insight as to actual build-ability of individual kits.

Someday I hope to get a WNW kit, I hear they are superb. I think if I had my choice I'd start with a Roland D.VI, just for the look of it.

good luck with whatever you decide.

Richard,

Thank you! That is exactly the kind of response I was looking for, including the logic for your suggestions. Very cool...thanks again.

Stupid newbie question regarding Wingnuts kits. Do the kits come with the appropriate string/wire for the rigging on these planes? If so, is the material they supply the best stuff to use? Or, is there better (easier to install, more 'accurate') aftermarket rigging that you would recommend?

Curt,

No they do not come with the rigging line. What's the best? No straight answer for that one. There are many different materials to use, EZ Line, stretched sprue, fishing line, fly tying thread and a few others I am sure. Each with their own pros and cons.

Here's how I've used fly tying thread in the past with homemade turnbuckles. Tedious but not too difficult. I am using EZ Line for the first time now and it that... easy. But a different process.

http://www.wingnutmodels.com/Rigging.html

I use EZ Line elastic thread on my 1/48 scale models. It's stretchy and so if bumped it just bends, like an elastic, so it stays attached to itts anchor points. Each end is CA glued using an accelerant to speed things up. So I recommend it.

I think the colour I use is a ilittle dark (I use charcoal) but maybe the French Blue that WNW sells is closer to the steel colour of the real rigging wire. It is also slightly rectangular in cross section, not round so this could be an issue when installing it to avoid twists.

Some people use small diameter guitar strings which look very good. Some stretched sprue. I haven't tried either of these methods

Check out the WW1 forum thread here on Aeroscale.

Curt

I suggest going with any WNW with little if no rigging to get your feet wet. The DVII is a fairly easy kit with no rigging as an example.

I use Invisible thread from Wal-Mart, Joann Fabrics, Hobby Lobby etc. It's vinyl and comes in several thicknesses and looks like wire. Very easy to tighten with a quick pass with the heat of a hair dryer.

I make my own turnbuckles out of stretched hollow plastic q tips. it's tricky but works really well but for now I would go with the non rigging kits.

This may sound a bit silly in this age of the fantasic WNW kits, but I would cut my teeth on an older and only slightly less complcated or detailed Kit which makes up to a real good show.

The Revell 1/28 scale kits Spad, Camel, and Fok. Dr-1. The DR-1 has no rigging (except cabane struts and landing gear), and is not as fiddlely as any Roden or any WNW kit and the interior is nice and detailed, yet simple compared to the others. Any mistakes will not cost you in price. This will allow you to risk mistakes with less sweat. I started with the Spad, and it came out great and I was fifteen when I made it. (It came out during the 50th anniversary of WWI.)....

Revell of Germany still has them in their catalog. they are about $25.00 US, and though not simple, they are far from the challenges of WNW. I'd say satifaction but not at the larger price. Then you can move to the glory of WNW.

Enjoy
Captn Tommy

The risks are many, and the chances slim... But ...Oh the songs they will sing of us in the Hall of Heroes! - Kor, D’har Master.

Some of the benefits of building WnW kit as an introduction to the early aviation include:

Pretapped placement of rigging anchors

Struts that install and provide correct angle and orientation.

My opinion of easiest WnW would have to be the new Roland C.II or C.IIa, Albatros as good average entry - the latter give you more exercise in rigging and inner wing struts...

Thank you, everyone! You have been a huge help...I now have a much better feel for how to go about my first WWI airplane. You guys are great!

It's been interesting for me reading this. I'm seriously thinking about treating myself to one this Christmas with some back pay we're all getting at work. This might be the one and only chance I have to get my mitts on one of these seeing as we're looking at buying a house next year. Mortgage payments will certainly put the block on any future spending and my other half will not be impressed if I do!
Anyway, I'm drawn to one of the German 2-seaters. Either the Rumpler's of DFW's look suitably impressive and should keep me entertained for a while.