Hi, I messed up the airbrushing on a plastic model. I removed the paint with Mineral Spirits. When I tried to repaint the plane the paint dried in clumps. Is mineral spirits not the right cleaner? Any suggestions? Typhoon1

Gidday Typhoon.

Mineral spirits will attack the plastic. I usually use cotton buds dampened with lighter fluid. Note "dampened."
Is you use turpentine use "Artist's Distilled Turpentine." from your local Art Supplier. It is plant based and much better for use on styrene.
Again, use a little at a time when removing enamel paint.
It is also a terrific thinner. I use only Humbrol paints and have tins of "Authentic Colour" I thinned that are as good as new. Great for air-brushing.

Cheers
Karl.

You might try a cleaning product called "Purple Power" that's available at Auto Zone and other automotive supply stores in the US for about $8 a gallon. I successfully removed 30-year old dried Pactra enamel paint from an Aurora biplane by soaking it overnight, then scrubbing the parts with an old toothbrush. After rinsing in cold water, the paint came right off without any damage to the kit's plastic. PPower is slightly caustic, but much less so than the hydraulic brake fluid I previously used. Wear gloves and eye protection though, just in case.

Hi, Thanks for the tip. I will try it. Joe

thanks, I will get that Arist Thinner. I am using Testors Paint but am still in the experiment stage. Joe

Hi, I am newly back to building models. I have been using Testors enamel paint to airbrush the plane flat aluminum. Is there a way to tell when the paint is properly thinned. I am using mineral spirits to thin the paint. Thanks, Joe

Proper thinning comes with practice. I tried the recommended guides and ultimately came to realise many things affect the result. Temperature, humidity, purpose.
Try airbrushing an old model with different mixtures of paint and thinner. A breakthrough for me came with adding gloss varnish to a matte mix. Much smoother to use and control.
Avoid 'Mineral Turps!' It is messy and a mistake, as you have learned, is disastrous. For enamels, like Humbrol, 'Distilled Turpentine' dries in a most agreeable manner even when used on light coats. A slight imperfection can be carefully wiped away with a thinner dampened cotton bud while you are applying the paint. DO NOT FLOOD THE AREA.

Early Morning musings,I know, but perhaps useful.
Cheers

Karl.

Thanks HEATNZL. I have sworn off the Min. Spirits and going with Testor's Airbrush Thinner as that's what is available here. Had good luck airbushing the MiG-17. Am starting assembly. This will be an adventure. Happy Trails, Typhoon1

For any enamel paint I spray, I use Testor's thinner (it comes in a red metal can). It's more expensive than the stuff that you get at a hardware store - but it's also much milder and cuts ModelMaster paints with perfection. I avoid using other thinners because there's too many variables and too many types - some work wonderfully and others barely cut at all. I stick with what I know because I know it's going to work 100% of the time.


I generally find that with all paints you use a little less thinner than 50/50, more like 60/40. The rule of thumb is that you want it about the same consistency as milk - you want to swirl it around (a jar or whatever your mixing vessel is) and have the colour retreat down the sides in the same way that milk does down the side of a glass. The first time someone told me this everything made perfect sense finally.

Good stuff. Now you are on your way to happier modelling.

This 'cow-juice' idea has always confused me. Is it full-cream, homogenised, low-fat, no-fat or straight from the cow type.

any of the above would realistically spray well.

Hi all, thing are going well with the MiG 17. However I painted out side the lines on the canopy. Can I clean it with thinner or lighter fluid and try again? I appreciate any thoughts. Thanks, Joe

I took a chance and used thinner and a damp q-tip to clean the canopy. It worked. Should have thougth of that b4 I posted. Joe