This happens

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sam-Publications/118908631482919

|:(

Done that several times, usually on a three tone camo scheme
Looking good in the end.
Andy

Faced it on metals!!! Not cool...not cool...

I thought the first looked like a pretty interesting and effective disruption pattern!

oh yes, I have done similar "'('§!sdbg xb§nx c

I learned never to use any other tape but Tamiya.

Until, I ran out and used something else for my most recent build.

I just hope I will not really regret this.

Now your photo's scard me

Ouch!! That happened to me once while using MM acrylics. The tape even lifted the MM primer. Now if I use an acrylic, I prime with a solvent based primer that gives the acrylic paint more tooth and will not lift when removing the tape. The only acrylic I have used without a primer and will not lift when removing masking is Tamiya's paint.

I'm guessing that more then 9 out of 10 modelers have faced that exact issue, and not all the models have "lived" to be repaired, then repainted. Sad but so true.

I've had paint peeling issues down to the bare plastic when I tried Model Master Acrylic primer and paints. All have been sent to the recycling center. I prime everything, and the only primers I use are lacquer based: Tamiya or Mr. Primer Sealer. And really clean the surface with Iso Alcohol prior to primer application for added protection.

Some paints stick better then others, that's just the way it is. My preference is Tamiya acrylics (almost all airbrushing), Model Master enamels( Hand brushing and special applications), Alcads and MM Metalizers.

Tape: Tamiya all the way except for PMA Super Thin 1/4 inch tape.

I've had a few issues with masking over both shiny and dull Alcads, which I still can't figure out. Model Master Metalizer clean sealer solved that issue for me.

Joel

I frequently use cheap painter's tape with no problem because whatever tape I use for masking, I always stick it to my jeans or T-shirt first and then peel it off before sticking it on the model. This de-tacks it enough that it prevents any problems with removing the underlying paint. Normally, lint is anathema to model painting, but in this case lint is your friend.

I will use just about any old masking/painters tape, but before use I always rub the smaller pieces on the palm of my hand. The body oil takes most of the "stick" off, and then I put the tape on a glass sheet (old picture frame glass) to cut in strips or to shape. For the larger pieces I slap in on my forehead. Of course this is invariably done scant seconds before the wife comes down with a question or comment, and is good for a bemused stare (she just figures that's where they write the "IDIOT" label. But as we used to say in the military; "If it's stupid and it works, it ain't stupid."
DR

[quote
I've had a few issues with masking over both shiny and dull Alcads, which I still can't figure out. Model Master Metalizer clean sealer solved that issue for me.

Joel [/quote]

I have heard the same thing from other modelers but I have been lucky not experience any issues taping over unsealed Alclad.

I was recalling this very same issue last aircraft I shot in Alclad and taped some panels for tone variation but again thank God, nothing lifted.