For more then 40 years of off and on modeling, I've used a Paasche H airbrush with mostly the #3 setup which has a .77mm needle. Painting with it has long been like 2nd nature to me, and I'm able to draw in my younger (steadier hands) days a pretty nice fine line using the #1 setup that has a .55mm needle.

Well, as I posted, with the advent of the double action airbrush that artists use for paint flow modulation while painting, I succumbed to the temptation and bought a Iwata Eclipse ECL 4500 unit with a .35mm needle.

After getting familiar with the AB, I was able to use it without any major issues, until I actually painted parts of a model. I've found it nearly impossible to lay down a consistent layer of paint like I achieved with the single action AB. What's more the paint just didn't flow smoothly causing a rougher finish then I've been use to.

My usual painting procedure with the Paasche H was Tamiya Acrylic paint thinned 1:1 with their yellow cap lacquer thinner or X-20A, and shot at a flow rate of 18-20 psi. I did the same with the Eclipse, but the results were not to the standards I expected. I've tried to modify the mix by going with a 2:3 paint to thinner ratio, dropping the flow rate to 14-16 psi, two drops of Winsor & Newton's Flow Enhancer, and making sure that I'm within 2 inches of the surface and applying a light, even coat of paint. The results were better, but still not nearly as good as with the Paasche H AB.

One issue that I'm having is keeping a constant position on the trigger through each pass, not doing so ends up with non-consistent coverage. Looking at a lot of pictures of models in the painting stage, shows that this is a more common issue then I thought, but for the most part, the surfaces seem smoother then what I've been able to attain.

I'm thinking of buying another new AB, this time the new Iwata Revolution M-1 which is a single action, internal airbrush. Yet, I really can't see much of a difference between how that works and an external airbrush as the paint is mixed with the air by the needle, which makes them both external mixes.

Any ideas, suggestions, to help me get over the hump

Joel

Joel,
Sounds like you're doing everything right, but you might try more thinner and less air pressure. I use three double action brushes, a Badger 155, a Paasche Illustrator, and a Peak C5, the Peak being the closest to your Iwata. Each of these brushes has different characteristics, but the common characteristic is the need to use more thinner in a double action AB. I use 10-12 PSI, and thin the paint up to 60-70% thinner (sometimes more depending on the finish-- more thinner for post high-lighting i.e.; panel lines). I use the Paasche for most area coverage, the Peak for fine to general use and the Badger for large areas. Double action airbrushes by their nature require finesse in trigger control-- and if you're used to a single action brush, you may need to adjust to the required finger pressure to get results-- this means more practice. You might also need to adjust the needle spring to compensate. I started airbrushing with single action Paasche and Badger brushes, it took a while, but once I got the hang of what a double action brush can do, I never went back. Don't give up and be patient. A trick I use is to practice a little just before putting down paint, and then, after a painting session, if there's any paint left in the cup, I practice writing my wife's name within a heart on a piece of cardboard (she thinks I'm thinking of her while I build models, but I'm really just practicing airbrush techniques!). I also practice "Italian camo smoke rings" and different sized dots-- all this keeps your skills up. One other thing-- any paint (or thinner) left in the brush will make trigger action more difficult on a double action AB, so make sure your brush is thoroughly cleaned between paint sessions. VR, Russ

Russ,
Thanks for the info. Will test with a 60/40 mix and drop the psi to 12-14, and see what happens.

As for cleaning, I just run Iwata Air brush cleaner through till it's clear when I'm changing colors. After the session I tear down the gun with respect to cone, needle, tips, and clean the cup. The AB never spits, nor do I get air bubbles unless I block the air flow to help clean the bottom of the cup.

Joel

Unless she reads this post!

Hi Russ

Good advice though.

@ Joel - a dual-action does take some getting used to and, as Russ says, they all behave slightly differently. For years my benchmark airbrush has been the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution - I just love its smooth action, but the Iwata TR-0 pretty much matches it, and I find the trigger grip much less tiring to use with my carpal tunnel trouble.

The Iwata HP-M1 is a very handy little airbrush (literally "little"!) - simple to use and excellent quality. I keep mine handy, but basically use the TR-0 for pretty much everything.

But you've got a beautiful piece of kit in your new Eclipse, so I'd persevere with it. Like any new tool, it takes a little practice to get comfortable with it.

All the best

Rowan

Rowan,
For me old habits die hard. For more then 40 years it's been a external single action Paasche H with 3 different needles.

I'll keep on practicing, but I really think that the Revolution M-1 or the Grex Genesis XA internal single action ABs are the perfect ABs for us modelers.

internal double action airbrushes were created for artists that need to modulate and regulate the flow, as well as the intensity of the paint while painting from a feathered edge to whatever. They also tend to use inks and watercolors rather then acrylics or enamels. So there is a more or less constant adjustment to the trigger position and hand movement.

As modelers, we tend to paint in the exact opposite way. That is with a pre-set or mimicked setting for a particular session. Example would be painting the base color of a fuselage either top, bottom, or both. The exception would be free hand camo work, but generally it's outlined 1st, then filled in. For these types of applications a internal, single action airbrush would yield a more consistent overall finish, and let you cover a wider paint area. With the use of masks and or snakes, one doesn't even need to outline 1st.

I still use my Paasche H for Primer coats, and all clear coats as it covers a much greater area per pass, and applies more paint as I have the option of .55mm, .77mm. and 1.0mm needles and cones.

Joel

Hi Joel

True - but that's also just the type of control we need in some (not all) modelling situations.

Have you got a modelling club near you, or a LHS that would let you try different airbrushes? They are such a subjective thing, it can be a hard (and costly) job to find the perfect match for your needs.

I have to ask: why do you want to move away (I won't say "upgrade" if you're not getting better results) from your Paasche that you've been so happy with for so long?

All the best

Rowan

Rowan,
the nearest IPMS club meets more then a hour from where I live. I helped found the sister chapter that for years was in the county I live in. But as time passed, the club membership decreased from guys retiring to warmer climates, and unfortunately from passing away. So both clubs combined into one.

My not so LHS doesn't have a single air brush. I've held several air brushes at a art supply store, but they don't let you use them.

The issue with my external airbrush is that the spray pattern isn't as tight as it would be with an internal gun, and that the adjustment knob allows for finer tuning. And ok, I just want a new air brush. Like I said, I've been using the Paasche H for 40 years. Kind of time for a change.

Joel

Joel,
Without actually seeing your painting technique its difficult to know what the problem is.
Like as has already been suggested thinning your paints more should get the type of finish you are after.
I thin my paints quite a bit and get some pretty smooth finishes, also I spray on only just enough paint to get an even coat, this way no surface detail on the models are lost plus I use less of the expensive model paints.

It will take a little time to get used to a double action airbrush but it will be worth it in the long run.
One thing that will help speed up your learning on how to use a D.A. airbrush is to do your practice painting on an old model or unused model parts instead of cardboard or poster paper. Even to this very day I keep a paint mule handy to do a quick test spray before committing paint to a new model to make sure there are no surprises waiting for me.

I own seven airbrushes and some of them are rather expensive but by far the most useful airbrush for painting scale models has turned out to be the low cost Iwata Revolution BR, it has (IIRC) a .35 spray nozzle and even though its not known as a detail airbrush I can get it to spray fine lines and tiny mottles with ease by thinning the paint a lot and lowering the P.S.I. from the compressor.

When cleaning my airbrush I first spray thinner through it to where the color cup looks clean and then remove the spray nozzle and needle and clean them separately, always remove and later insert the needle from the front of the airbrush and NOT from the back...paint residue can get drawn into the trigger causing sticking problems later on. Even though the needle might look like its clean there is always a tiny amount of paint film on the parts of the needle that you can't see and its best to at least remove the needle whilst cleaning.
When your airbrush is back together put a couple drops of thinner in the color cup and spray that out to make sure it works properly for the next painting session.

HTH

Matrixone

Les,
Thanks for the advise.

I do have a mule for testing and practicing. It's just really hard to teach an old dog new tricks. I've always tried to use less paint then more.

My thinning ratio is 2:3 which is 40/60, so I'm really not sure about going further.

I've always been a fanatic about cleaning my AB and really never had any issues with paint clogging, spurting, or uneven paint flow. I even keep a little Air Brush cleaner in the bowl to lubricate the needle between sessions.

The Revolution M-1 really seams like the perfect compromise for someone like me. I'll keep on practicing with the Eclipse so I'll have the best of both worlds. As well as my Mule' the Paasche H for the heavy, dirty work.

Meanwhile, I'm going to very lightly rub down the finish with 6k,8k, & 12k micro mesh pads to get ready for Mal's masks. I'm really looking forward to using them.

Joel

Hi Joel: There isn't anything wrong with your airbrush or your technique. You are trying to compare the Eclipse to your single action and that will never work. the Eclipse is designed for very small detail work and NOT overall painting. Where a single action is designed for overall painting and NOT fine detail. All you need to do is use the single action for overall painting ( primer, base coats, top coats, overall clear etc) and your eclipse for any fine detail ( cockpits, landing gear, figures, camo, etc). Hope this is a help.

Robert,
That's also my assessment, but more then 50% of the modelers I know use a double action brush for everything, and they seam to love it. Unfortunately, this isn't working for me, so I've gone from one Airbrush to a 2 gun system. I never thought I'd being saying or doing that.

I just purchased the Iwata Revolution M-1 internal single action AB with a .35mm needle. This will be my overall painting AB. The Paasche H external AB with the .77mm for primer coats, and the 1.0mm needle for clear coats. That should really allow for a nice wet coat similar to but much more controllable then with a rattle can.

Personally, I just feel more comfortable with a single action AB. The M-1 should offer very close results as the Eclipse, and with the paint control knob at the back, allow me to fine tune the paint pattern while using the AB. So I'll just sell the Eclipse and move on. And I already have a buyer, so the new M-1 isn't really costing me any additional funds.
Joel

Hi Joel: I'm glad to hear you have figured out the specifics of air brush use. I also use 3 different ones. My favourite is a single action Binks. I use this for just about everything except fine detail. Cheers