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Pre-Flight Check
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
revell 1/48 strike eagle
sabreuk
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: May 31, 2015
KitMaker: 79 posts
AeroScale: 4 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 05:21 AM UTC
hey guys here is my finished f15 1/48 scale build it is totally out the box except I have lit as much as I can so the cockpit and hud is fully lit, the marker lights on the inner wings have been lit and also the exhausts have been lit using various leds. the base is a photo frame with a large hd picture of Baghdad under the Perspex to try give the model some depth hope you guys like, any comments and questions are welcomed.

one big downer for me is the seam line in the top of the canopy from the mold I think it really spoils the cockpit but I was unsure how to get rid of it with out destroying the canopy. any tips on that would be greatly appreciated for the next build.

heres the pics:



















and here is video so you can get the full effect of the lighting with the flickering leds etc and the fully lit cockpit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jj0t-vx8qyU&feature=youtu.be
drabslab
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European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 12:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text



one big downer for me is the seam line in the top of the canopy from the mold I think it really spoils the cockpit but I was unsure how to get rid of it with out destroying the canopy. any tips on that would be greatly appreciated for the next build.




Nice Eagle!

On the seamline, it is actually surprisingly simple altough it takes a bit of courage

First put a piece of tape left and right of the seam to avoid scratching the complete surface during the seam removal operation.

Take a sharp cutter and scratch the seam from front until aft until the seam is almost gone. Try to scratch in such a way that you more or less follow the shape and curves of the canopy.

Before going to deep, turn to a fine sanding stick. Ideal are those sold in beauty salons for polishing finger nails. These things have 4 grades. Start with the most rough one and finish of with the smoothest one. Continue until you have a surface that is scratch free.

Somewhere in the middle of that you have to remove the tape to become an even surface quality over the whole canopy.

Now take some Tamiya polishing compound, add it to the surface and rub it with a soft cloth with a circular movement. A few minutes later you have a shining surface.

The danger to watch out for: don't push to hard to avoid that the canopy cracks.

In reality, it takes more time to write all this than to actually do it.

Good luck


sabreuk
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: May 31, 2015
KitMaker: 79 posts
AeroScale: 4 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 09:16 PM UTC
thanks dr abslab appreciate the help, il bear that it mind for the next project if it happens again, and I agree it takes some bravery to take a sanding stick or similar to a clear canopy.

I will defo try your technique though might even try it on the eagle as it really is setting my ocd off lol.

ill have to get some Tamiya rubbing compound first though

thanks again buddy
craig
drabslab
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European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 09:33 PM UTC
And visit a beauty salon, whaw, think about it
sabreuk
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: May 31, 2015
KitMaker: 79 posts
AeroScale: 4 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - 10:27 PM UTC
hmmmm is it my yeti arms or my chewed finger nails your referring to buddy lol other than that I may need a hint lol
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 16, 2015 - 10:16 PM UTC
Craig,
Just an overall outstanding build and presentation of the Revell 1/48 scale F-15E Strike Eagle. Your painting and weathering are just dead on. As for your base, I really like the map presentation concept. I've seen it a few times previously, and it does help in a non-verbal or written manner to place the aircraft in a specific time frame, and place.

Your use of LEDs are really quite well done, and in your video, they really do take your presentation to a whole new level.

You mentioned some issues with silvering of the decals, and generally that's caused by air being trapped under the decal more then it being an issue caused by the decals themselves. The smoother and the surface, the better for the decal application. A Matt finish will tend to show silvering issues as air can get trapped in the valleys of the unevenness of the matt finish.

Drabslab has already addressed the canopy mold seam procedure. Just use a light touch in polishing, and you'll have a perfect canopy. One additional step would be a bath in Future/Pledge to really make them shine, and it will help to fill in any sanding or polishing scratches that are still present.

Joel

sabreuk
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: May 31, 2015
KitMaker: 79 posts
AeroScale: 4 posts
Posted: Friday, July 17, 2015 - 01:48 AM UTC
thanks joel much appreciated on your comments

thank you for the hints with the decals I have not come across the silvering with matt coats before like this but I think I know where I went wrong from your explanation.

I did apply the decals direct to the pait where I usually matt or gloss coat first so that's probably what I did wrong this time :-/ but the decals where locked down with micro sol and set and a humbrol matt varnish over the top of that.

the canopy still scares me a little and I keep looking at it and thinking be brave have a go then I bottle it and think no I will leave it lol.

the only thing I wish I had got extra would be a couple of pilots to fill the seats but to late for that lol.

glad you liked my effort though much appreciated

thanks craig
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