Hey Damian,
Thanks!
World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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Tamiya 1/48 N1K1J Shiden Build Log
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 17, 2015 - 01:36 AM UTC
Joel_W
Associate Editor
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 17, 2015 - 04:59 AM UTC
Gary,
I'll be the 1st one to 2nd what Damian said. Your foiling is just amazing.
Joel
I'll be the 1st one to 2nd what Damian said. Your foiling is just amazing.
Joel
heavyjagdpanzer
Joined: February 17, 2013
KitMaker: 173 posts
AeroScale: 108 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 17, 2015 - 05:49 AM UTC
Great work!
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 17, 2015 - 07:38 AM UTC
Joel and Bill,
Thank you very much!
Gary
Thank you very much!
Gary
spaarndammer
Joined: January 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,945 posts
AeroScale: 388 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 17, 2015 - 10:07 PM UTC
I can only agree with the others: Amazing! What a clean look.
Jelger
Jelger
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 01:16 AM UTC
Thanks, Jelger!
Gary
Gary
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 03:02 PM UTC
Bah! My airbrush is boned! While cleaning, I dropped the nozzle and the larger piece to which it's attached, and as luck would have it, the nozzle hit the pavers first. I didn't want to ram my needle through it to reshape it, so I had to order another. So, it looks like I'm at a standstill until it arrives.
I'd hoped to have the hinomarus painted by now.
Gary
I'd hoped to have the hinomarus painted by now.
Gary
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 07:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Bah! My airbrush is boned! While cleaning, I dropped the nozzle and the larger piece to which it's attached, and as luck would have it, the nozzle hit the pavers first. I didn't want to ram my needle through it to reshape it, so I had to order another. So, it looks like I'm at a standstill until it arrives.
I'd hoped to have the hinomarus painted by now.
Gary
Gary.
that sucks
But at least you didn't damage the needle. They seam to be the most expensive part to replace. Joel
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 02:02 PM UTC
Hello Everyone,
My airbrush and I are back from the dead! I had to call the supplier and harass him via e-mail, but eventually I got the parts I needed.
Today's work is all about masking and painting the national insignias... Japanese Hinomarus. For some reason, the word Hinomaru wants me to sing it to Hawaiian music.
The fuselage Hinomarus get a white border. Masking is like masochism...trying to line stuff up is nerve wracking and induces one to drink strong beverages.
Trying to get the red circle perfectly inside the white circle had me pulling at hairs that no longer existed. I'm not chrome-dome yet... but I'm getting there.
Look at that metal shine! The more NMF I do, the more I want to do. You guys are gonna hate me when I do my B-29.
Can you tell which panel I had to replace when I had to shift the mask earlier? The foil never adheres to the metal as if it was super-glued. The general rule is: If you don't want it to come off while you pull a mask of, IT WILL. But the other half of the panel you are going to replace is more stubborn and requires more gentle prodding than a mule to get it off.
Thanks for Looking!
Gary
My airbrush and I are back from the dead! I had to call the supplier and harass him via e-mail, but eventually I got the parts I needed.
Today's work is all about masking and painting the national insignias... Japanese Hinomarus. For some reason, the word Hinomaru wants me to sing it to Hawaiian music.
The fuselage Hinomarus get a white border. Masking is like masochism...trying to line stuff up is nerve wracking and induces one to drink strong beverages.
Trying to get the red circle perfectly inside the white circle had me pulling at hairs that no longer existed. I'm not chrome-dome yet... but I'm getting there.
Look at that metal shine! The more NMF I do, the more I want to do. You guys are gonna hate me when I do my B-29.
Can you tell which panel I had to replace when I had to shift the mask earlier? The foil never adheres to the metal as if it was super-glued. The general rule is: If you don't want it to come off while you pull a mask of, IT WILL. But the other half of the panel you are going to replace is more stubborn and requires more gentle prodding than a mule to get it off.
Thanks for Looking!
Gary
phumbles
Joined: June 14, 2013
KitMaker: 82 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 03:28 PM UTC
Hi Gary,
That is looking great,I dont think you are going to have any problems with the finish you want. Have fun. Phil
That is looking great,I dont think you are going to have any problems with the finish you want. Have fun. Phil
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 05:22 AM UTC
Hi Phil!
Thank you! It's fun, but enervating.
Today I got half of the beast painted. This half NMF, half painted, and very chipped build is probably the most work-intensive build I've done yet. It's probably put my desire to use stencils and masks to bed.
Everything has do be done atop a soft towel now I don't want any chipping where it doesn't belong. For me, an attempt at realistic chipping can be ruined by just a few small human errors. Chipping in the middle of a panel,but no chipping on the panel edges, for example
I added a light mottle of the surface color lightened to give it some fade. Hopefully once the washes are done and final coats applied, it'll meld together to look half decent.
At this stage of wartime production, it seems the planes were painted unmasked...so, I tried to use the soft-mask approach here. heh, after I edited this photo I ran back to the model and removed the over-spray I hadn't noticed before.
Now the thing can cure for a day or two while I mess with the landing gear and other small stuff.
Thanks for looking,
Gary
Thank you! It's fun, but enervating.
Today I got half of the beast painted. This half NMF, half painted, and very chipped build is probably the most work-intensive build I've done yet. It's probably put my desire to use stencils and masks to bed.
Everything has do be done atop a soft towel now I don't want any chipping where it doesn't belong. For me, an attempt at realistic chipping can be ruined by just a few small human errors. Chipping in the middle of a panel,but no chipping on the panel edges, for example
I added a light mottle of the surface color lightened to give it some fade. Hopefully once the washes are done and final coats applied, it'll meld together to look half decent.
At this stage of wartime production, it seems the planes were painted unmasked...so, I tried to use the soft-mask approach here. heh, after I edited this photo I ran back to the model and removed the over-spray I hadn't noticed before.
Now the thing can cure for a day or two while I mess with the landing gear and other small stuff.
Thanks for looking,
Gary
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 06:16 AM UTC
Gary,
I'm more then just impressed. Your foiling came out great. Nice and clean top side paint job. And your masked Hinomarus look as they were indeed painted on.
My only "issue" is the black and white checkered cloth. One thing for sure, it does grab ones attention.
Foiling the B-29 will be a massive job for sure, but I'm really looking forward to it.
Joel
I'm more then just impressed. Your foiling came out great. Nice and clean top side paint job. And your masked Hinomarus look as they were indeed painted on.
My only "issue" is the black and white checkered cloth. One thing for sure, it does grab ones attention.
Foiling the B-29 will be a massive job for sure, but I'm really looking forward to it.
Joel
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 07:56 AM UTC
Hi Joel,
Thank you for your kind compliments. Sorry about the checkered towel. It's the softest towel in the house that I could get away with using.
Your thought about the B-29 has put my mind to worry and work. It's one thing to move a fighter around with a flick of the wrist and lifting a bit to keep the wingtips from striking something.
Without truly considering the ramifications, I've set my self the task of repeatedly moving around, rotating, and swiveling a behemoth with a 36 inch wingspan. I'm going to have to build a cross shaped cradle that can hold the plane snug-ly at any position or attitude. Man oh man...
Gary
Thank you for your kind compliments. Sorry about the checkered towel. It's the softest towel in the house that I could get away with using.
Your thought about the B-29 has put my mind to worry and work. It's one thing to move a fighter around with a flick of the wrist and lifting a bit to keep the wingtips from striking something.
Without truly considering the ramifications, I've set my self the task of repeatedly moving around, rotating, and swiveling a behemoth with a 36 inch wingspan. I'm going to have to build a cross shaped cradle that can hold the plane snug-ly at any position or attitude. Man oh man...
Gary
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 06:09 AM UTC
Gary,
I know a few large scale modelers on ARC. Tommy usually builds 1/32 scale super detailed vacuform aircraft. And he did a B-29 with a NMF. Now he's doing a 1/24 scale F4B vac. Talk about needing a very large workbench.
Joel
I know a few large scale modelers on ARC. Tommy usually builds 1/32 scale super detailed vacuform aircraft. And he did a B-29 with a NMF. Now he's doing a 1/24 scale F4B vac. Talk about needing a very large workbench.
Joel
Scrodes
Joined: July 22, 2012
KitMaker: 771 posts
AeroScale: 763 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 06:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Glad to see a built of the Shidden on the way! Here is my Hasegawa one!
What colour did you use for the green?
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 10:23 AM UTC
Hi Matt,
Thanks for stopping by. I mixed it myself with artist acylics in tubes. I googled Kawanishi green, then would hold the brush over the chosen sample on my iPad until it became difficult to differentiate between my brush and the color sample. That's how I do all of my colors.
Gary
Thanks for stopping by. I mixed it myself with artist acylics in tubes. I googled Kawanishi green, then would hold the brush over the chosen sample on my iPad until it became difficult to differentiate between my brush and the color sample. That's how I do all of my colors.
Gary
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 11:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gary,
I know a few large scale modelers on ARC. Tommy usually builds 1/32 scale super detailed vacuform aircraft. And he did a B-29 with a NMF. Now he's doing a 1/24 scale F4B vac. Talk about needing a very large workbench.
Joel
Hi Joel,
I went to the ARC forums and looked at a few of that fellas builds. He 's some kinda modeller! Definitely builds nice looking stuff with everything looking professional. I was hoping he had some benchtop shots, but his pics are all on that blue background. I will have to spend more time at that place to learn more.
Gary
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 07:03 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextGary,
I know a few large scale modelers on ARC. Tommy usually builds 1/32 scale super detailed vacuform aircraft. And he did a B-29 with a NMF. Now he's doing a 1/24 scale F4B vac. Talk about needing a very large workbench.
Joel
Hi Joel,
I went to the ARC forums and looked at a few of that fellas builds. He 's some kinda modeller! Definitely builds nice looking stuff with everything looking professional. I was hoping he had some benchtop shots, but his pics are all on that blue background. I will have to spend more time at that place to learn more.
Gary
Gary,
I spend almost as much time on ARC as I do here. Here we're more WW11 orientated, there, jets are mainstream. There are a few large scale builders like Tommy and Chuck who share their techniques and knowledge in detailed blogs which is a tremendous help to the rest of us. I've often exchanged PM's with them, so if you have a specific question, that's a great way to get a detailed and accurate answer to your question.
As you spend some time there, you'll be surprised at how many Aeroscale members are there as well. Most of us use the same names, so it's easy to recognize us.
Joel
Scrodes
Joined: July 22, 2012
KitMaker: 771 posts
AeroScale: 763 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 - 01:31 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Matt,
Thanks for stopping by. I mixed it myself with artist acylics in tubes. I googled Kawanishi green, then would hold the brush over the chosen sample on my iPad until it became difficult to differentiate between my brush and the color sample. That's how I do all of my colors.
Gary
Looks great.
How about you MS406C [Jean]?
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 - 01:56 AM UTC
Gary,
The only artist tubes I've ever used are oils, and I never much cared for them. Unless you leach out the Linseed oil, they take forever to dry, so I end up placing the oils on cardboard and let the Linseed oil leach out, then I mix it with Odorless Mineral Spirits which sure isn't odorless. I never knew that there are acrylic tubes which solves that issue.
I've gone to using Model Master enamels thinned with their red can universal thinner to make washes. Works perfectly, and there is no mess like I always seem to have when using those tubes.
Joel
The only artist tubes I've ever used are oils, and I never much cared for them. Unless you leach out the Linseed oil, they take forever to dry, so I end up placing the oils on cardboard and let the Linseed oil leach out, then I mix it with Odorless Mineral Spirits which sure isn't odorless. I never knew that there are acrylic tubes which solves that issue.
I've gone to using Model Master enamels thinned with their red can universal thinner to make washes. Works perfectly, and there is no mess like I always seem to have when using those tubes.
Joel
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 - 10:41 AM UTC
Hi Matt. Thank You,
Hey Joel,
The artist acylics are a wonderfully cheap way to go, as well as non toxic. I have been using the same $15 worth of paint through 5 aircraft models, and have only had to buy white and black because of all of those Luftwaffe shades of gray. I waste/use a lot finding the right colours, but they store in cheap containers really well. They dry fast and when thinned with Future, make a durable finish. Cleanup is acheived with water, rubbing alcohol, or windex depending on how dry the paint is. Learning to airbrush with it took some googling, but it's safe to say that I'm unlikely to buy model paint again that isn't metallic in nature.
Gary
Hey Joel,
The artist acylics are a wonderfully cheap way to go, as well as non toxic. I have been using the same $15 worth of paint through 5 aircraft models, and have only had to buy white and black because of all of those Luftwaffe shades of gray. I waste/use a lot finding the right colours, but they store in cheap containers really well. They dry fast and when thinned with Future, make a durable finish. Cleanup is acheived with water, rubbing alcohol, or windex depending on how dry the paint is. Learning to airbrush with it took some googling, but it's safe to say that I'm unlikely to buy model paint again that isn't metallic in nature.
Gary
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 - 02:18 PM UTC
Hello Everyone,
I fumbled my way into a decent form of chipping after my planned methods failed. Even the Hinomaru aren't safe.
I was too lazy to do a 4-5 photo spread, and instead concentrated on a few small areas. My unexpected and only successful method of chipping acrylic paint from aluminum is to use a lightly dampened napkin. However, it's one of those things where one stroke may take you from too little to way-too-much. It does have the bonus of actually finding the panel edge and pulling from there.
The climb up to the cockpit over the rounded side of the fuselage seems like a place where a guy might want some help getting in... So I went a little heavy there. I'm not sure If I'll leave the Hinomaru the way it is. Looks a little too conspicuous. What do you guys think?
Thank you for looking,
Gary
I fumbled my way into a decent form of chipping after my planned methods failed. Even the Hinomaru aren't safe.
I was too lazy to do a 4-5 photo spread, and instead concentrated on a few small areas. My unexpected and only successful method of chipping acrylic paint from aluminum is to use a lightly dampened napkin. However, it's one of those things where one stroke may take you from too little to way-too-much. It does have the bonus of actually finding the panel edge and pulling from there.
The climb up to the cockpit over the rounded side of the fuselage seems like a place where a guy might want some help getting in... So I went a little heavy there. I'm not sure If I'll leave the Hinomaru the way it is. Looks a little too conspicuous. What do you guys think?
Thank you for looking,
Gary
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 - 08:26 PM UTC
Gary,
The chipping does look good. I do agree that the Hinomaru chip looks too big as there is no reason for it to be that way other then poor painting by the crew.
Joel
The chipping does look good. I do agree that the Hinomaru chip looks too big as there is no reason for it to be that way other then poor painting by the crew.
Joel
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 - 11:02 PM UTC
Hi Joel,
Thank you. It was one of those strokes that went from nothing to huge and I was thinking about not even including it. I wish I had greater knowledge of aircraft building and painting practices by all of the combatants. It would take out all of the guesswork that I find myself doing.
Gary
Thank you. It was one of those strokes that went from nothing to huge and I was thinking about not even including it. I wish I had greater knowledge of aircraft building and painting practices by all of the combatants. It would take out all of the guesswork that I find myself doing.
Gary
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 12, 2015 - 12:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Joel,
Thank you. It was one of those strokes that went from nothing to huge and I was thinking about not even including it. I wish I had greater knowledge of aircraft building and painting practices by all of the combatants. It would take out all of the guesswork that I find myself doing.
Gary
Gary,
My WW11 efforts are nearly all USA, and I have the same issues. Colors and primers varied all over the place per plant as location could be coast to coast. You matching method works for you, so stick with it. I've gotten lazier and just hate mixing paints, so I'm slowly switching from Tamiya to Lifecolor. Specialty paints will still be Tamiya for some time.
Joel
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