I am a newbie and been absent from the forum for a few years. I am in the process of finishing a few models I started. This model is my first attempt at Alclad 2 Polished Aluminium. All went well except my first use of the black gloss undercoat which I applied too far away and got a pitted finish. I removed the paint with alcohol and re sprayed with success.
I now have to give the tail end that burnished after burner look and would appreciate some help. I see Alclad have a brass and burnt iron colours. How would you suggest I use those? I was thinking of giving it a coat of the brass and then a light spray of the burnt iron over the top so that the brass shows through. Or maybe the brass over the burnt iron. Or maybe some alternative rings of each.
I love the look of this plane and think it has a real presence. Kit was OK with a few faults and the fine decals tended to break when positioning.
Pre-Flight Check
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Trumpeter Super Sabre F-100F
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 04:30 AM UTC
PrickleHead
Western Australia, Australia
Joined: December 31, 2013
KitMaker: 338 posts
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Joined: December 31, 2013
KitMaker: 338 posts
AeroScale: 190 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 06:49 AM UTC
Nice looking finish Sheehan, always thought about getting this kit. Think I might pick it up now.
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 11:09 AM UTC
Hi Laurie,
The metal alloys used in afterburners don't burn because they're engineered to be heat resistant. I don't know which metals are used to make them. They generalky look like dull- gray metal outside and sooty inside. Think of well oxidized aluminium here.
Best wishes,
Gary
The metal alloys used in afterburners don't burn because they're engineered to be heat resistant. I don't know which metals are used to make them. They generalky look like dull- gray metal outside and sooty inside. Think of well oxidized aluminium here.
Best wishes,
Gary
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 11:15 AM UTC
Gary thanks for the reply. I am actually referring to the fuselage panels which photos show a discolouration as a result of the heat from the afterburner.
As an example see in this link
http://www.defensemedianetwork.com/stories/f-100-super-sabre-flew-most-missions-in-vietnam/
As an example see in this link
http://www.defensemedianetwork.com/stories/f-100-super-sabre-flew-most-missions-in-vietnam/
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 12:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Gary thanks for the reply. I am actually referring to the fuselage panels which photos show a discolouration as a result of the heat from the afterburner.
As an example see in this link
http://www.defensemedianetwork.com/stories/f-100-super-sabre-flew-most-missions-in-vietnam/
Ah, I understand. That is a pretty cool looking effect, Laurie. Almost looks like copper.
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 01:07 PM UTC
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 - 09:35 PM UTC
Laurie,
Welcome back!!
Your F-100 turned out exceptionally well as did the Alcad finish. the rear quarter of the fuselage has always been a trying issue for many modelers to duplicate, as the colors are really the effects of various degrees of heat at any one area. As Luciano suggested, the easiest way to duplicate it is with those Alcad Hot metal colors. If it were me attempting it, I would mask off the entire surrounding area, then apply a coat of Sepia. Then vertical random streaking of Blue, red, and violet, with the blue just mostly near the rear. Just a few lite passes of each with really make a huge difference. After the Alcad dries for a day or so, I would seal it with a very diluted air brushed application of matt as the area has no sheen to it at all.
Joel
Welcome back!!
Your F-100 turned out exceptionally well as did the Alcad finish. the rear quarter of the fuselage has always been a trying issue for many modelers to duplicate, as the colors are really the effects of various degrees of heat at any one area. As Luciano suggested, the easiest way to duplicate it is with those Alcad Hot metal colors. If it were me attempting it, I would mask off the entire surrounding area, then apply a coat of Sepia. Then vertical random streaking of Blue, red, and violet, with the blue just mostly near the rear. Just a few lite passes of each with really make a huge difference. After the Alcad dries for a day or so, I would seal it with a very diluted air brushed application of matt as the area has no sheen to it at all.
Joel
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2015 - 02:31 AM UTC
Hi Joel, Thanks for the welcome and the kind comments as to my Alclad finish.
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 06:21 AM UTC
Hi Joel and others. I is just too dear for me to buy Alclads and have them shipped just to get that burnt afterburner effect. So I have decided just to paint the tail section with Dark Aluminium. I have ordered a bottle of Alclad Titanium Gold (118) and might just give that a light spray over the top of the dark aluminium. Any thoughts on that. Maybe just do it with the titanium gold
Posted: Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 07:14 AM UTC
I would experiment on something else with some washes using cheap copper paint mixed with some grey or other colors to get the desired effect. Those pictures in the link make it look like downward strokes should work, applying more between the rivet lines and less on the rivet lines.
Just a thought,
Gary
Just a thought,
Gary
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 09:31 AM UTC
Hi Gary. Thanks for the input. I have some Humbrol copper and quiet a few grays. I might experiment on a plastic aerosol cap with some effects. Just one question. Can put paint enamel over Alclad. It has cured for about a month now.
Posted: Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 10:08 AM UTC
The Alclad sites says that you can. However, it recommends you try it on a piece of scrap first. I work primarily with artist acrylics, so I haven't gone over Alclad with enamels, yet.
Good luck,
Gary
Good luck,
Gary
Posted: Saturday, October 31, 2015 - 03:13 PM UTC
Laurie, you could also look at thinned clear red, yellow and blue paints that are available from Tamiya and Humbrol. I've had some success with them in the past all be it in a smaller scale. In essence that's all the Alclad is.
Experiment first though on some scrap.
Experiment first though on some scrap.
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 02:11 AM UTC
Thanks guys. I have some of the Tamiya clear blue and red. I do recall seeing burnet metal having a blue tint. How would you apply it. In bands? or just an overall light wash?
Posted: Sunday, November 01, 2015 - 03:40 AM UTC
You want to apply it in bands, but you do need to use it thinned down and use more than one colour, band of metal, band of red, band of yellow, band of blue and repeat again and again. Look at some real aircraft, I have got somewhere a photo of a F-100 rear end just for this purpose although I think it's stuck on my old computer.
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 03:51 AM UTC
Thanks Littorio
Here is an image that is a bit like what you are saying:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:North_American_F-100D_Super_Sabre_%28MAA%29.jpg
I think I will spray a plastic piece with the Alclad Titanium gold and run some red and blue clear acrylic over and experiment before tackling my model
Here is an image that is a bit like what you are saying:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:North_American_F-100D_Super_Sabre_%28MAA%29.jpg
I think I will spray a plastic piece with the Alclad Titanium gold and run some red and blue clear acrylic over and experiment before tackling my model
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 03:40 PM UTC
The alclad is very good but use it in very thin coates as to not overdo it. Blending different colors will help making it realistic
Removed by original poster on 11/04/15 - 11:39:45 (GMT).
Posted: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 - 04:42 PM UTC
This one is a bit more restrained
Here
Check out airliners.net they have loads of photos, not just airliners.
Here
Check out airliners.net they have loads of photos, not just airliners.
Sheehan1
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Joined: May 27, 2014
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 124 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 02:06 AM UTC
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
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Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 08:02 PM UTC
Laurie,
Impressive. I would suggest a little more blue streaking, but as it stands now, it's really quite good looking.
Joel
Impressive. I would suggest a little more blue streaking, but as it stands now, it's really quite good looking.
Joel