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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Roland D.Vib, WNW
wing_nut
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 - 05:33 PM UTC
Step 1. Take it out of the box, set the sprues out nice and neat. Drool.

Step 2. Wipe drool off the sprues.

Birch_Albatross
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Berlin, Germany
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Posted: Thursday, June 16, 2016 - 07:10 PM UTC
Hy Marc, have you been able to stop droolin' inbetween???

I've opend my Sopwith Sanke early by WNW stared in the box started drooling and closed the box imediadly because of the rising level in the box...
No I stopped the building proced before I started to avoid a kit disaster.

:-H Christian
wing_nut
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2016 - 12:50 AM UTC
Christian, No... still drooling

I've only just gotta to it relay though having finally finished my Monogram Lockheed "Connie" from 1956.

Not much in the way of progress but it something at least. The cockpit interior is Uschi wood planking decals.





phantom_phanatic309
#372
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2016 - 01:24 AM UTC
Looks great. What colour did you use for the interior grey? I got their Pfalz yesterday and the instructions also suggest a grey/green colour for the interior parts. I was expecting varnished ply, but thinking about it a painted interior was probably more durable.
wing_nut
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2016 - 04:01 AM UTC
Thanks Stephen. I just use the color call out from their sheet. Tamiya XF76 gray/green
phantom_phanatic309
#372
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Posted: Saturday, June 18, 2016 - 04:29 AM UTC
Thanks I might go with the same colour.
I'll be watching your build to see how it turns out. It's one of the kits on my wish list.
Started their Rumpler tonight. Fantastic kit.
wing_nut
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Posted: Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 10:04 PM UTC
Back from the land of the lost. For the moment anyway. I long for the day when was accused of building fast. Some headway has been made none the less. While there is still lots to do there's not much "building left.

Used Uschi wood planking decals for the prop.



Cowling just set in place to see just how little of the engine will be seen.



Aileron attachment points are tiny so metal pins will make then stronger.



Lower wing in place so the LG can be glued up and set in the right position for the glue to set.




Scrodes
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, July 06, 2016 - 02:29 AM UTC
Nice methodical approach to your build.

We should all take time to think our builds out this well. There would be less projects shelved.
wing_nut
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Posted: Friday, July 08, 2016 - 03:44 AM UTC
Thanks Matt. It's only because I can barley get to the bench these days that I can be methodical... read that as'slow"
Merlin
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#017
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Posted: Monday, July 11, 2016 - 01:00 PM UTC
Hi Marc

Beautiful work. I certainly wouldn't class your work as "slow" - not by my recent standards, at least!

All the best

Rowan
wing_nut
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Posted: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 - 08:40 PM UTC
Thanks Rowan. I am worry though that this will become the new standard. If I can't deplete the stash at a reasonable rate, how do I justify adding to it? Although, in all this time, that has never really been a consideration so why should it now? OK, I'm good.
wing_nut
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Posted: Tuesday, July 19, 2016 - 05:47 AM UTC
Good bench time for a bad reason. My best friend, more than a friend, we were like brothers, passed away last week. The Xanax only went so far so I had to get my mind focused on something so I turned to the hobby. Needed to see if it was really as therapeutic as we always say it is. Well, it is that and more.

The fuselage of the Roland has been primed and the black stripe masked off then the white band painted. A red tail comes next. I "borrowed" a technique to take advantage of the translucent Aviattic decals to look like the wood framing pressed up against the cloth. It will be muted a bit once the weathering/fading starts.









The kit is the "b" version which is more for the different engine than anything else. The later ones had enlarged control surfaces but the Aviattic sheet fro the "b" only had the late style decals when 1/2 the schemes in the kit have the early style. Would have been nice to know that the "b" kit needed the "a" decals when I ordered. Luckily the larger aileron decals can be cut down to the correct shape.




wing_nut
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Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 06:15 PM UTC
1st iteration of fuselage paint.



Fuselage masking f-ups all fixed. LOTS of bleeds that cant be seen in the pics but oh brother are they there. And... oh yeah... the black stripe was not supposed not pass through the white band. Hence the term "fuselage band" That was fun to cover. A technique picked up in another forum of laying down a coat of Mr. Paint Leveling Thinner a few minutes after spraying Tamiya clear, decanted from the rattle can, once again produces a mirror finish.





I can't even begin to calculate how long it's going to take doing plank by plank with the Ushci wood plank decals. Each one is cut to length, applied and trimmed for its full length since they are wider than the "planks" on the model. But I think it's gonna be some kinda special when all done.


Merlin
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#017
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2016 - 01:16 AM UTC
Hi Marc

Awesome! That wood finish is going to look amazing!

The only thing I have to ask is... wouldn't it have made life (a little) easier to have done the planking before painting the other markings? At least there'd have been a bit less cutting and measuring.

All the best

Rowan
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2016 - 02:03 AM UTC
Thanks very much Rowan. Now that all the tail end is done and about 1/2 of the forward part it's really starting to look cool.

Whenever someone asks how to get old decals off a models someone invariably will suggest tape. I've done that myself so the thought of doing the planking and then masking just didn't; seem the way to go. Now that I've worked with these there is no way they would stand up to masking tape. Ends are easily trimmed and the long cut down one side of the planking gets easier the more I do. The trick it to time the drying. Not enough and it all shifts when you cut. Too dry and it doesn't want to peel off nice and clean. Guess how I get that off if I am not paying attention? Yup, masking tape
GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2016 - 10:57 AM UTC
Marc,
Been following along and drooling! That wood detail is magnificent!

Gaz
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, August 01, 2016 - 04:56 PM UTC
Thank Gaz. Glad you are enjoying it.
wing_nut
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Posted: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 - 12:18 AM UTC
This is a new definition for "tedious".





Merlin
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#017
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Posted: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 - 12:28 AM UTC
Hi Marc

That does look gorgeous! I totally get your point about fragile decals - sometimes they are almost bullet-proof when sealed over a gloss base, but it's not worth the risk on something like this.

One thing that might be worth suggesting with sharp brown pencil or very fine brush is the zig-zag joins in the planks.

All the best

Rowan
wing_nut
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Posted: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 - 12:57 AM UTC
Thanks Rowan. And I completely forgot about the finger joints. I meant to paint a few of the boards a darker color with the finger joints since they would show through the translucent decals. I may try the pencil lines in an inconspicuous spot to see how it looks.

Or, I can simply say they are all under the white and black bands
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2016 - 03:43 AM UTC
Like the beginning of Star Trek:Enterpise says...

"It's been a long road
Getting from there to here"



















GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2016 - 04:04 AM UTC
Marc,
I know you can't see it, but I'm giving you a standing ovation.

Thank you for sharing,

Gaz
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2016 - 05:31 AM UTC
Haha, Thanks Gaz. I'll have to take your word for it
redcap
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2016 - 02:26 PM UTC
Marc - Just fabulous in all respects and one of 'the' very best WNW finished models I have ever seen.....and I have seen a lot.


Gary
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, August 22, 2016 - 04:47 PM UTC
Gary, thank you doesn't seem to be enough for such a compliment.
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