Hello forum,

as I'm a RoF pilot from Berlin/Germany. And by this I'm certainly interested to build a model of some of the flying boxes my fancy circus.

So as I'm not a "really goodly expirieneced" modelbuilder I think I should start my first First World War maschine with your support...

Certainly I dreamed about my 1/48 Sopwith Dolphin by Wingnut - so I took the month rest of my money and awaited the packet. Because I thought: A good kit will give a good model... But when I opened the box I was shocked and so I decided to start with something more easyer...

Here I will make my start with the antihero of the book "Fokker Foddr" by Paul R.Hare



The Royal Flying Corps flown Royal Aircraft Factory B.E.2 scaled in 1/48 by Roden.



I took her because she has a mainly matt painted surface of canvas - I hopfully can handle without an aibrush my airpressurepump is out of oil.

I decided to build her out of the box - with some little & easy bashings.

I found this article very helpfull - he also brought me in here: https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/155315&page=1&ord=0

I've admired Repainted kit building and the shows a really high lever I can't get to... so moderation is the order of the day!

Hope you have fun!

Yours Albatros's Birch

So here we've got the sprues:



...and some very little first progress:



Here the colouring prototype - also well to see: The propeller is monocolouric brown:



Best greetings from in between the step No. 1 *

*Edit:

The exaust pipeing is diffrend from the Roden kit

Hi Christian

Welcome aboard - it's great to have you with us, and I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress.

I fear I never really got started with RoF because carpal tunnel syndrome has seriously impacted on my computer gaming. The 3-D modelling is just stunning, though, and a real inspiration for what we can achieve in plastic.

All the best

Rowan

Thanks fdor your warm welcome, Rowan!

I play not too much but from time to time I do so

So you are gifted on an other part of your life - modelbuilding instead of gaming... much more productive .

But to stop boring you I'll post my latest progress for you:



The dark brown cover with a first layer of clear gloss.. a second and thrid will have to follow I think.





My matt black is dried out...

So I hope you have some little fun with these pictures - the last one is much too reddish :



If you substract the red you come to the yellowish cameous I have mixed or the canvas

Yours,

Christian

Here some further engine details:







Christian

The column of the engine is complety black - there is a fault in the painting manuale! There is no "ring" of aluminium to be painted on the socket - only the block bewol is from aluminium... the painting manual says "Iron"...
Am I allowed to change this as I think it is right?

But my biggest problem is the imitation of the cooling fins - as you can see from the kit parts photo there are no parallel lines to imply this very charasteristic structur.

But how to imitate this?

I may try to cut parallel grooves in each cylinder - but if this doesn't work the complete kit is out of order. I think about parallel lines by using a fine bristle brush in a gunmetal on matt black - does this may be a way to go?

Has anybody of your well trained by doing modelbuilders any idea?

Christian

Christian,
You could try sanding the cylinders and then wind fine copper wire around them. Copper wire works well with CA.

The auminum flutes between the cylinders could be made with aluminum foil. It would be tough, but perhaps with a gentle touch.

Best of luck,

Gaz

Thanks a lot, Gaz,

for the very intesting tricks!

I thought about light card and paper mixture with CA-glue between the cylinders - never thought about aluminium

The idea of the copperwire sounds a good solution - but to sand the cylinders I would have to cut them from the engine block part - that's not the problem but how to fix them again in exactly the place they have had before??



Christian

Christian,
Do you have a pin vise and drill bits? Drill up through the base on each cylinder. Remove each cylinder. Insert wire into each cylinder so that enough wire extends through base. When you re-attach cylinder to base, align them the way you want, then squirt CA between base and cylinder and let capillary action do the rest.

Good luck,

Gaz

Watch out for the very fragile landing gear legs. On my example they arrived broken. You may wish to replace the little loops at the bottoms of the legs with some stiff wire bent to shape for strength.

Thanks for this helpful hint - I actually lost an engine pipe... and found it in the hands of my carpetmonster that adopted laminat trying to make itÄ's way giggling away!!!

You are a brave man to make such a leap into the world of modelling. We are here to help you in any way you can.


I went from modelling to flying sims, I can only imagine how daunting the build must be for you.

Hello Matt,

oh it's a very fine thing - I imagine not only a virtual (onedimensional ) trophey on the monitor - I'll hang a threedimensional model on a strand at that Ivar board over my Monitor.

I'm a little bit frustrated not to come to a fast results - yesterday I came home and figured out hat I was to tired to do anything well on or to the kit - so I leave "mylady" alone. My intention was not to do any harm to her by dabbling with my semiclosed eyes and shaky. I'm not really happy with my painting job I left behind: this because in my art hours at school we've been called to idenify this on Van Gogh's oil paintings as "Ductus"... But 48 times bigger it does not fit really a kit's surface.

I took a Revell matt yellow and something like a tird of white, I mixed it and I tryed to get a colour I would call after a Rolly-Royce Silver Shadows discription on ebay: "Camouse" - The colour is nice but too thick, when I add more water in it and paint in more layers..

... will I get a good result?*

I did do some reading progress so I'm cuffed - and on the other hand:

It's a hobby - not a hurry.



:-H
Christian


*My question is because, the compressor I told you about was "inherited" some twenty years ago, I never really made use of him and due to his age I don't trust him really.

________________
Edit:

I'm working at the moment on two flower racks with a 8mm plywood board on top and a cheap breadcutting plastic board from Wool(un)worth under the kit. This is a wobbly workingbranch - so I'll yield a place in my Ivar shelf to get a propper place to build.

Hello Gaz,

I'm still dealing with your tip about the cooling fins:



I figured out that a cooling fin is about 2mm of material thickness in original:



This will be araound 0.042mm in 1/48 so I find out where to buy some 0.04mm wire to imitade the cooling finns... the diameter isn't the problem to get - it's the length of the wire...
They only sell a colli of nearly two miles

So I think I'll try this trick later -or awaiting the 1/32 Airfix model I've seen a picturer from a toy fair some month away.

Christian

Christian,
Steal some speaker wire from your stereo system. Usually the wires are quite fine and useful for many modeling things

Gaz

I allready found this
again by crawling arround for 1/2 hour on my floor a 2nd time.

I resigned from my first idea to drill in there. I wanted to ape a youtube modelbuilder to give this part the impression of a pipe. So I got my 0.2mm driller and the part just flipped away... I was afraid it maybeen broken!

So I'll try to imitate deep by using a bit of deep brown in the Citardel copper colour in the middle by a little dot. Has anybopdy a better idea ??

Christian

What a good idea! Yes its's fine ...it works well!


EDIT: ...NOW my left speaker is mute!!!*


Christian







*

Sorry for this - nut I'm going to interrupt this kit due to the fact that I can't handle the detailling in a way I want it to be done. And I fear I'm going to wreck the hole kit by my leck of experience.

:-H Christian