One of the few 48th scale kits I completed last year, as I am mainly a large scale modeler. Tamiya's 48th scale Jug is a gem and was a pleasure to build. This time around, the NMF is all AK Xtreme Metals over their Black Base. The Jug was the first time I used AK products and I was very pleased on how well they worked, as all my other NMF's were skinned with Alclad.
Tamiya kit decals were used and along with Mr Setter and Mr Softer to insure they settled down. Paints were Model Air.
Thank You for checking in
Peter

Pete,
Another outstanding NMF. Damn, that Jug looks good with the contrasting black and white checkerboard cowl. If I remember correctly, it wasn't the easiest of decals to get to lay down like paint.

After looking at all your NMF finishes that you've posted, the AK system seems to lend itself to a more oxidized looking finish, while the Alcad II is as shiny as it can get.

Joel

Lovely build Peter. I picked up some of the AK products recently, looking forward to trying them out, especially when I see what a great result they can produce!

Cheers, D

JA
I forgot the extra work the checker nose needed but it still worked out fine in the end. Xtreme Metals are actually a bit more metallic then Alclad per the 'same name' and as of late, I use them pretty much interchangeably.
Bro

D
Very much appreciated. I found the AK products very easy to use and yield nearly the same results as Alclad. The key is the preparation: super smooth plastic and black base for the reflective shine.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I never seal my NMF, decal and mask right on top and so far, I've never had a issue with peeling or lifting paint.
Looking forward to seeing you go at AK Metals.
Peter

Peter,
you really do make an outstanding looking model! Everything looks professionally done and polished.

Your canopies shine like glass, your NMF is mind-boggling. and that Jug just looks like a show stopper.

I love that checkered cowl, too.

Excellent!

Gaz

Gaz
Thank you for the compliments on the compliments on the Jug. A fun build and as always, you just can't go wrong with a kit from Pa Tamiya stable.
Peter

Hi Gaz
I neglected to mention that all my canopies are polished inside and out, as I'm not a fan of Future. I just have this fear that with masking and leaving the tape on the canopy for weeks on end, the Future will peel when I remove the masking tape.
Peter

Hi Peter,
What do you polish your canopies with? I have had some problems with Future and tape, so I'm giving up on the Future dip. I'm currently trying to come up with a new way of doing transparent parts. I just need to decide where to look.

Gaz

Hi Peter,

nice NMF and a buidifull model. did you also use a special metal gloss (I think AK has one) or a polisher like Ushis?

gr TC

Hi Gaz
My normal procedure for polishing canopies:
Step #1
Remove any mold lines with sanding sticks, starting with a medium - fine grit, then I work my way through to the ultra fine. Now being a bit thick headed, I revert back to sanding with 600, 1500, 2000 and 12,000 sandpaper; wet. The canopy now is very smooth and clear on the outside only and I haven't touched the windscreen yet.
Step #2
With a very soft cloth I apply a small amount of Mequiar's Rubbing Compound on all the glass, inside and outside. Let dry and buff out.
Step #3
Lastly, I use the Novus 3 step plastic polishing system and I'm done.
Sounds like a lot but it takes less then 10 minutes as the pasts are very small. Wear white cotton gloves once the polishing starts, as finger prints are a killer.
Hope this helps.
Peter

gr TC
Thank you for the very kind words.
No sealers, powders or polish used at all. I have a semi laborious procedure for prepping for gloss finishes, which insure an ultra smooth model surface, paying extra attention to all the seams and filler.
Then I prime with MIG Gray Primer, which I am able to shoot with a super smooth finish; no polishing or rubbing out required.
I next apply the black gloss base and then let dry for a full 24 hours. Still no busffing, polishing of rubbing out the paint.
I apply either Alclad or AK (used on the Jug) in very light layers at 12 psi with either an H&S Infinity CR Plus or Iwata HP-CS Eclipse for large surface areas. Takes time but rushing is a killer.I also shoot very close to the model.
I normally will let the NMF set up and dry for 24 hours, then mask and shoot the color coats and/or apply various panel shades
I decal directly on top of the NMF and never use sealer. I have tried a zillion sealers and all have some effect on the finish. Hope this helps
Peter

Pete,
Are you sure it's rubbing compound and not polishing compound?

I've used Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 instead, and it works fine. Mostly because I have so many of their products. But I've never gotten that super clear shine you get because I just use the Micro Mesh pads to 12,000. Will have to finally get the Novus system as the Mossy canopy is ok, but not great.

Joel

Wow! Top notch NMF Peter! Congrats, fantastic P-47 flawlessly painted, certainly AKs metals are a good product but it's always the modeler skills that achieves such heights. Thanks for sharing the photos and hints of your "how-to".

Cheers
Pedro

JA
The Red Bottle is right in front of me: Rubbing Compound.
For polishing it's the Novus system
Bro

Pedro
Thanks so much and glad to share.
Peter

Well,
I usually build in 1/48 and my favorite plane has small, slab panels for the entire windscreen. But I'm tempted to get the Novus system and Meguiers. I was surprised to find them available here in Aus. I fear you guys are gonna drag me kicking and screaming to large scale planes.

One problem with real foil is oxidation. Unless the foil is sealed, it will oxidize and dull...the cruelty of it all! But yet, the clear coat affects the shine. Not fair!

Hi Gaz
If the smaller canopies and panels do not require and seam removal, then just start with the Meguiar's and then the Novus system, the results will be amazing.
I feel your pain with the foil oxidizing and Model master Sealer for Metalizer # 1409 should work perfectly. It will take the metallic sheen down slightly but still leave the surface looking mighty good.
Peter