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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Roden 1/48 Nieuport 28 C.1
JackFlash
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Posted: Monday, March 01, 2004 - 01:38 PM UTC
The BUILD Greetings all; Here are some notes on my recent workbench project. By request we will discuss the Roden 1/48 Nieuport 28.C.1 As usual this topic's 1/48 scale pedigree began with Aurora’s Famous Fighter series back in 1957. Then the kit was modified with the etched in locations erased in the1972 K&B issue. In 1980 Tom’s Modelworks and Lone Star announced their vacuform versions. Lone Star even released a brass etched set for the kit but the kit itself was never released to my knowledge. The Aurora mold was released again recently by Glencoe Models in 1998. Next came the Blue Max offering in 1992. Finally we were given Roden’s new master piece in February 2004. Here we will discuss its build up. First, I will clean up all sprues with mild detergent and warm water. Next predrill any rigging and strut pilot holes for the entire assembly. Theses holes will be located exclusively in the flying surfaces and fuselage. Slice partially through the separation lines for the control surfaces and reset to the attitude you have chosen. Normally I would comment about thinning the trailing edges of the flying surfaces but in this case it is not a concern. This kits wings are commendably thin.

Step 1. The 160hp Gnome Monosoupape (Single Valve) 9N rotary engine assembly (12 A, 7, 8, 13, 16 & 17 B) I relatively an easy build. When removing the pushrods (8 B) from their sprue ring remember to work slowly and carefully with a ‘new’ #11 blade. The cowling assembly ( 22 & 23 B) should have all union seams blended smooth and the exposed rear edges slightly thinned for scale effect. The firewall assembly (18 & 21 B) should have its union seam blended smooth as well. The upper portion of the firewall (18 B) contains the ring -shaped 25 liter oil tank.

Step 2. To save most of the needed detail when uniting the fuselage halves (2 & 4 A) lay down masking tape over areas that you want to protect when you begin to sand the union seam smooth. When completed add the tail unit assembly (14 A, 24 & 25 B.) Be sure that it sets straight and plumb. I waited until Step 5 to add the outer surface fuselage details (13,15 & 17 A, 2 B X2, 20 B.) Note that some early examples went into their first combat sorties with only one Vickers machine gun (11 & 15 B) mounted. Check your references.

Step 3. The landing gear assembly ( 13 A & 3, 10, 12, 14 B X2) is a straight forward procedure. Remember that the tires in most cases did not have large amounts of carbon black in them so a dirty grey will usually suffice as a colouring here. Also this area was subjected to a large amount of burned castor oil exhaust.

Step 4. The cockpit interior assembly (8, 9,10, 11, 16 18 A & 1 , 19 B) begs for detailing. The real value would be a peach basket type seat. But even these seat backs were covered most of the time by the pilots with sheep skins for comfort. I would also add a section of linen painted plastic sheet to the rear face of the fuselage former (8A) to simulate a cloth type screen. Internal rigging wires, instrumentation and bracing wires are easily applied with this type of ‘insert assembly.’ The cockpit opening is on the small side but is accurate for this aircraft type according to current information.

Step 5. Uniting sub-assemblies and adding lower wing should be accomplished with a jig. I use children’s plastic building/ link type blocks. Don’t add windscreen yet.

Step 6. Next, I added the top wing (5A), cabane (6 & 9 B X2) and interplane (4 & 5 B X2)struts using again the building block jig. The interplane struts appear about 1/64 an inch too short. To work out the one degree dihedral, I shortened the cabanes by that same length. The propeller (3 A), is a typical profile and would have had a uniform rich red brown shellac covering it. Finish with an overall dull coat and then after it has thoroughly dried add the windscreen using white (PVA) glue.

Step 7. The Rigging diagram needs to be compared with photos and plan drawings. Note the thickness of the appearance of some rigging wires and their exact placement when connecting to the fuselage. Check your references.

Decals;
I. s/n 6144 Lt. James A. Meissner 94th Aero sqdn
II. s/n 6144 Lt. James A. Meissner 94th Aero sqdn
III. s/n 6169 Major John Huffer CO 94th Aero sqdn
IV. s/n 6164 Lt. Douglas Campbell 94th Aero sqdn
V. s/n 6159 Lt. Edward Vernon Rickenbacker 94th Aero sqdn.

References;
American Aces By Jon Guttman, Osprey, Aircraft of the Aces # , 2002. Billy Bones - An Accounting of the 31st Aero sqdn by S.T. Lawson, To be published in C&C Intl.
List of Aircraft Designations (French) submitted by P. Grosz, Cross & Cockade USA Vol.25, #2, Pp.112-115, 1984.
Nieuport 28 by Jon Guttman, Windsock Datafile #36.Albatros Pu. Ltd. 1992.
Nieuport Fighters of WWI by J.M.Bruce, Osprey, Vintage Warbirds #10, 1993.
Nieuport Fighters Vol 1 by R. Rimell, Albatros Pub. 1993.
Nieuport Fighters Vol 2 by R. Rimell, Albatros Pub. 1994.
Nieuport Vee Strutters by S. Nelsen, Cross & Cockade USA, Vol.7, #3,Pp.237-253. 1966.
Nieuport Vee Str. Errata & Addenda, Cross & Cockade USA Vol.12,#2, Pp.189-190. 1971.

Comments;
In my opinion, Roden has done an excellent job of getting the angles right with this one. Each attempt successive by this up and comer is bringing a new flavor to WWI aviation subjects. A quality plastic kit at a reasonable price. What we need now is an aftermarket decal sheet with other AEF unit markings and aircraft serial and identity numbers and a brass etched set.
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 09:17 AM UTC
Hi there

Oh dear!!... you're making me jealous, 'cause despite numerous trips to the model shops, there's still no sign of this kit in the UK.

I have to say... you really should submit this as a "proper" review! :-) Add a couple of pics and it would be a Killer!

When the kit finally appears over here, I'll definitely buy it - and (if needs be) I'll add an IBR for Armorama... but I'd far rather you got there first, so we can all rely on your superior knowlege of the subject. :-)

I've still got the old Glencoe kit part-built... are the Roden decals better than the Glencoe sheet? I don't build much WW1 stuff, but I remember Windsock recommending the old kit for it's decals alone...

All the best... and keep 'em coming!

Rowan
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 02:44 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi there...Oh dear!!... you're making me jealous, 'cause despite numerous trips to the model shops, there's still no sign of this kit in the UK....I have to say... you really should submit this as a "proper" review! :-) Add a couple of pics and it would be a Killer! ...I've still got the old Glencoe kit part-built... are the Roden decals better than the Glencoe sheet? I don't build much WW1 stuff, but I remember Windsock recommending the old kit for it's decals alone... All the best... and keep 'em coming! Rowan



Thanks Rowan, Since I have shot my mouth off here let me explain. I have several irons in the fire. Just finishing a how to on rigging for a UK based Model mag that will be running 2 of my completed articles before this one. I have 12 typeset and waiting at another UK model Mag. I have 9 completed more articles in hand ready to ship out. All these have photos. There are two on the board right now being built per contract for two fellow enthusiasts. The notes on the Nieu. 28 are only my preamble to a complete article. The kit sits in a paint curing box now and I haven't gotten to the decals on this one yet. Usually I have to do this with the kit still in parts or subassemblies. This kit lets me do the decals last. Usually photos I post won't be used in the final article draft. Since I have to yet apply the decals those photos won't be done yet. I have to wait for the build photos to come back before I know what I will use where. The tough part is not being published its collecting the monies owed for work done... Sorry for the Rant mode.
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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Posted: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 09:33 AM UTC
Hi Stephen

Sorry if you took my post the wrong way; it wasn't meant as a dig... exactly the opposite!

You've done such a great job writing all those notes, it would be tragic to see them disappear the way most old threads do - hence my wish to see them submitted as a review, where they'll remain a permanent benefit for us all.

I can't wait to see your full Feature, 'cause I know it'll be awesome! As for the mags... I've reserved my copies!

All the best

Rowan
JackFlash
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 04:05 AM UTC
Merlin, No worries mate were good.
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
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#056
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 07:46 AM UTC
:-) Stephen,
You are going to have to stop this, It's going to make me start building WW I
Excellant stuff, as Rowan says it would be great if the infomation you have was a fixture here. I can see my definately building a WW I subject in the (near) future :-)
Thanks.
Mal
JackFlash
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 12:48 PM UTC
Greetings all, General Holdfast thanks for your support.
JackFlash
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 04:52 PM UTC
Greetings all just bringing this up for Lars' use.

https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/89489&page=1
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 05:02 PM UTC
Thank you Stephen
As always i´m deeply grateful for your inside reviews. It does not going to be any kind of over the hill build this, but I always try to get it right. Hopefully I will be able to send in some pics on the build.

Lars
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