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PE Question
CReading
#001
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California, United States
Joined: February 09, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 - 09:43 PM UTC
How do you bend the preprinted PE seat belts to conform to the seats without having the paint flake off?

Cheers,
C.

Title should read- PE Question?
I shouldn't try typing from my phone
rochaped
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Lisboa, Portugal
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 - 09:56 PM UTC
The only preprinted brand I’ve used is Eduard and never had any paint chipping away while bending.

Perhaps applying some varnish before bending might prevent it, with obvious careful manipulation of the PE
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 10:05 PM UTC
In fortunately, I've had some paint flaking when working with the Eduard colored PE belts. You really can't anneal them as you'll just burn the paint off, which defeats the whole point of buying the painted ones in the 1st place. What I do now is heat metal Xacto handle, then roll the belt over it. More times then not the belt will conform to the bend without flaking any paint. Just go easy, as to sharp of a bend will flake off the paint no matter what you do.

Joel
Mark_D_J_C
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Florida, United States
Joined: December 27, 2017
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Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 01:10 AM UTC
Perhaps the best solution (if possible) is to go with HGW belts, or Radu Brinzan's? I think they make for a better result anyway.

krow113
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 07:09 AM UTC
Some flake , some don't in my experience. Hard to tell until the moment of bending...collect the pieces as they flake off and glue them back on.
All of the Eduard ones for my Gotha (from 3 diff sets) all worked fine:


A good tip for using the pre-painted or otherwise , is to fit the belts prior to painting the seat parts. Then you wont mar the finish.
magnusf
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 03:09 AM UTC
I have no idea how to avoid it but I have had the same experience: sometimes they crack and sometimes they don't. I've simply touched up the paint when it has been visible. Also, my main reason for the coloured photo etch isn't the belts, it's all the panels and the other stuff that really look good when they are pre-painted, so that could be one reason that it doesn't annoy me THAT much !



Magnus
Scrodes
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 22, 2012
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 06:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The only preprinted brand I’ve used is Eduard and never had any paint chipping away while bending.

Perhaps applying some varnish before bending might prevent it, with obvious careful manipulation of the PE



I've never used a set where the 'paint' hasn't flaked off when bent. I've stopped using their harnesses altogether.
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 03, 2018 - 10:05 PM UTC
I've had some good success with the paint "flaking" problem by hand painting a clear coat over them before bending. You can use Future (Pledge with Future-- Kleer for you folks speaking the Queens English) which has a little flexibility. But I also just spray a coat of flat, then pick out the buckles with a sharp knife to bring out the shine again. Careful handling is the key, and as was mentioned before, shaping them to the seats before assembly really helps.
VR, Russ.
CReading
#001
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California, United States
Joined: February 09, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 04:45 AM UTC
Thanks for the replies. I haven't used them a lot but when I get the PE I try to use as much as possible. I just had one heck of a time bending them without flaking the paint. I think I've been as careful as possible and I have had success repainting them (kind of defeats the purpose though)
I'll try some of the methods relayed above to see if it gets any better. Again, thanks for the input.
Cheers,
Charles
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
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Posted: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 06:38 AM UTC
You might try the method of placing the prepainted parts in a toaster oven at 400 degrees F for 15-20 minutes. Try it on an unneeded item to see how the paint is affected before using it on your belts.

It always worked well on the PE I used doing WWI aircraft.

Hope this helps,
Paul H
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 - 03:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You might try the method of placing the prepainted parts in a toaster oven at 400 degrees F for 15-20 minutes. Try it on an unneeded item to see how the paint is affected before using it on your belts.

It always worked well on the PE I used doing WWI aircraft.

Hope this helps,
Paul H



Paul,
My wife would kill me for A: using the toaster oven for modeling, and B: wasting electricity, which I do all day long according to her since I've retired and spend a good portion of my days right now in my model/computer room with so many lights on plus my computer.

Joel
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 - 07:31 AM UTC
Joel,
I usually did the entire sheet or two at the same time and just removed the parts that I needed to keep in the hardened form so it was not a great deal of wasted energy.

Another method would be to place the painted part in a metal box or tin (i.e. Altoids tin) of some kind and try heating the box over a candle or spirit flame. This could possibly provide flame isolation while still conducting enough heat to anneal the part in relatively short order.

I think it would be worth a try.

Cheers
Paul H
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 - 07:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,
I usually did the entire sheet or two at the same time and just removed the parts that I needed to keep in the hardened form so it was not a great deal of wasted energy.

Another method would be to place the painted part in a metal box or tin (i.e. Altoids tin) of some kind and try heating the box over a candle or spirit flame. This could possibly provide flame isolation while still conducting enough heat to anneal the part in relatively short order.

I think it would be worth a try.

Cheers
Paul H



Paul,
I've annealed some PE using a lighter and holding the seatbelt with a tweezer. Worked ok. These days I prefer to make my own out of layers of masking tape. Still working on decent buckles and latches. I've also bought a few sets or RB Fabric belts, but I'm still daunted at the complexity of assembly. That's a fancy term for chickened out.

joel
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