Hi All,
Here is one of my humble projects in progress warts and all....
1/72nd Unicraft Arado TEW 16/43-19.



There’s still some work to be done, as you can see, especially on the areas where the engines meet the wing leading edges.
Cockpit is mostly, or will be, a combination of scratch build and a spares box raid.
Cannons have electrical cable sleeves to protect area from paint for super-gluing muzzle ends...when I find them...will be painted last.
Pre-shading has been done mainly to illustrate using indelible marker rather than airbrush. Will probably re-do prior to painting.

Your comments are more than welcome.
Thanks
Peter

won't the marker ink crack your paint...

Hi Sidney,
I've used the indelible marker many times before on resin AND injection kits, using enamel paints, and have never had a problem. I do it this way because I don't have an airbrush suitable or capable for doing such fine lines needed.
With Acrylics I don't know???

Cheers
Peter
:-)

Forgot to mention...
I've never done a primer coat before but may follow Rowan's lead with his experiment with primer on pre-shading.

Cheers
Peter
:-)

Please note...
doing pre-shading before completing filling etc...is a good way of finding areas that may have filled in and need re-scribbing.

Cheers
Peter

Interesting subject! How do you "re-do" the indelible marker? Do you paint over the old lines, have a way to remove the marker?

Jeff

Hi Peter

That's a neat looking beastie!

I've used a marker myself in the past to pre-shade the wing ribs on a "fabric wing". It worked fine - it didn't cause any paint cracking, and it was a great way to ensure neat parallel lines.

It looks like you've already had to do a fair amount of filling on this one (and done a fine job smoothing it all! :-)) - what filler do you use on resin? ... any tips?

All the best

Rowan

Hi all,
Ranger74...


The funny thing is that the marker will come off with water...but is unaffected by paint...(so much for indelible) but it is stable and have never had a problem with any chemical reaction or cracking. I can't say if it'll work with acrylics as I use only, in Saudi at least, Humbrol enamels. I've done pre-shading this way for the last 2 or 3 years. The marker I use most is by Pilot.

And Merlin....


Nothing special...I use mainly Humbrol filler and its very good on resin. I once did an injection 1/72nd Arii Dinah converted to a Me Alder and the plastic melted with Humbrol filler. Had to completely re-build from scratch the rear fuselage from the rear of the cockpit to the tail. To complete this one I used Milliput and it was fine. That was the only time I've had trouble with Humbrol on injection or resin.
As for sanding; I let the filler dry really hard...more work but smoother finish. Then use very fine wet and dry with a few drops of something like Fairey Liquid in the water. Rinsing often. For small gaps I sometimes use the method: mask, fill and acetone ("nail polish remover ducky") to wipe away the excess filler when its "just" dry.
Unicrafts do need a bit more work than most, but they are basically sound. They are a challenge sometimes but worth the effort, and can turn out really nice.

Thanks and cheers
Peter
:-)