Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Painting B-25
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 10, 2018 - 09:05 PM UTC
Posted this in another discussion. Was advised to post here. I have mostly done ship models. Now doing a Doolittle Raider in 1/48. Do I glue up the fuselage and then paint. Or do I paint and then glue. See a to me the glue and then paint would be best. But, how would I keep the overspray from getting in cockpit, wheel wells etc.
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
AeroScale: 833 posts
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
AeroScale: 833 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 10, 2018 - 10:52 PM UTC
Firstly, I recommend you pick up a few "how to" guides for model building. I personally like "The Greatest Guide" series, but Kalmbach (publishers of Fine Scale Modeler Magazine) makes several guides to building model aircraft. Fine Scale Modeler is also a great resource for tips, techniques, basics, and products. As for your "procedure" question regarding the building sequence, a definitive answer isn't really possible, as it really depends on the kit and the amount of detail. However, in general, I like to work in sub-assemblies-- that is I build up the major parts and add detail before joining the fuselage sides. For aircraft, I build about everything and paint the interior, join the fuselage sides, then add the wings, painting the exterior last. I attach canopies and mask them before painting the exterior. I usually add the landing gear, antennas and other small details on the exterior last. For masking wheel wells and bomb bays, there are a variety of techniques. Dampened Kleenex tissue (not the lotion kind) is great for stuffing into small corners, let it dry for a few days and you can paint over it. I also use small sections of sponge rubber-- the cosmetic applicator kind works best. There are a variety of masking solutions which can be used to cover or fill in the "gaps" on sponge or tissue. Micro-scale, Testor's and others make these masking solutions. Finally there are any number of masking tapes you can buy at Michael's, Hobby Lobby or your LHS. Tamiya makes a whole line, but the generic "Washi" tapes found in the paper/stationary section of any craft store are good too-- usually these come in printed patterns. I'd stay away from similar 3M brand "Washi" tapes found at places like Office Depot-- they don't have enough adhesive to work well.
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
Removed by original poster on 03/16/18 - 18:44:35 (GMT).
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2018 - 09:03 PM UTC
Building the Accurate Miniatures Doolittle B-25. The only question I have left is how to handle the .30 cal sticking out the side of the nose compartment when I mask.
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2018 - 09:13 PM UTC
My next project will be the Visible 1/48 B-17. Started this a year or so ago. Have the nose and cockpit done with Eduard details. My question is what glue to use to join the fuselage halves. Will need something strong and the clear half will have to support the port wing.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Jessie_C
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
AeroScale: 6,247 posts
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
AeroScale: 6,247 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2018 - 09:26 PM UTC
You can use regular styrene cement if you're careful in the application. Try a small brush with a thin liquid cement. You can choose to paint over the seam a bit if it gets messy. Alternatively, try non-fogging superglue.
Removed by original poster on 03/16/18 - 18:44:24 (GMT).
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2018 - 09:47 PM UTC
I have found in my research that one or two Raiders retained one .30 cal in the nose. Will check out your build. Thanks.
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2018 - 11:23 PM UTC
Also, it should be noted that the raider aircraft got a fresh coat of paint before being loaded on board. The props had no logo or yellow tips.broom sticks were placed in the tail to replicate the .50 cals.
Kevlar06
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
AeroScale: 833 posts
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
AeroScale: 833 posts
Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 11:38 AM UTC
Here's a way to mount guns in clear parts before painting the exterior:
1) Separate the barrel from the receiver
2) Using a pin vise and small drill bit, drill a small diameter hole in the center of the receiver and the separated end of the barrel, just deep enough for a length of wire. Brass from K & S engineering works best
3) Insert the length of wire into the receiver of the MG, paint it and mount it in the canopy or window. Best to use cyanoacrylate after giving the window a coat of Pledge with Future Acrylic floor shine (this will keep the cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear part).
4) Once the gun is securely mounted in the clear part, attach the clear part to the fuselage.
5) Paint the exterior paint on the model, when the painting process is finished, paint and attach the barrel to the short length of wire extending past the clear part.
VR, Russ
1) Separate the barrel from the receiver
2) Using a pin vise and small drill bit, drill a small diameter hole in the center of the receiver and the separated end of the barrel, just deep enough for a length of wire. Brass from K & S engineering works best
3) Insert the length of wire into the receiver of the MG, paint it and mount it in the canopy or window. Best to use cyanoacrylate after giving the window a coat of Pledge with Future Acrylic floor shine (this will keep the cyanoacrylate from "fogging" the clear part).
4) Once the gun is securely mounted in the clear part, attach the clear part to the fuselage.
5) Paint the exterior paint on the model, when the painting process is finished, paint and attach the barrel to the short length of wire extending past the clear part.
VR, Russ
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Friday, March 16, 2018 - 05:49 PM UTC
Thanks.
dcook11
Georgia, United States
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Joined: November 28, 2012
KitMaker: 216 posts
AeroScale: 35 posts
Posted: Friday, March 23, 2018 - 06:00 PM UTC
Follow up. Getting to the final stages. Here is the process I am thinking on the overall painting. Please comment if I have anything out of order, or anything anyone can add.
1. Interior is done, so assemble the fuselage halves.
2. Mask and attach clear parts.
3. Paint gray underside.
4. Mask off the gray with tape and silly paddy.
5. Paint the olive drab upper.
6. Mask off other details such as de-icees.
7. Clearcoat entire model.
8. Add decals.
9. Go over model with dull coat.
10. Unmask and add small detail parts.
Thanks in advance.
1. Interior is done, so assemble the fuselage halves.
2. Mask and attach clear parts.
3. Paint gray underside.
4. Mask off the gray with tape and silly paddy.
5. Paint the olive drab upper.
6. Mask off other details such as de-icees.
7. Clearcoat entire model.
8. Add decals.
9. Go over model with dull coat.
10. Unmask and add small detail parts.
Thanks in advance.