Vicious,Jessie,Dennis and Russ,
Thanks so much guys for your input.
Dennis I'm going straight out of the box for this one as G*50 Bonnie Bea, I've added scratch built seat belts and a little plumbing for the external tanks. I may also add brake lines, we'll see.

On the way home from doing a recovery run,stopped off and picked up model master gloss black, so I'm good to go.just finishing up the masking the canopy

So the plan for the rest of the day is finish masking the open canopy and also mask the closed one as I'm still figuring out how to minimise scratching when cutting masking tape. this way I can choose the best one. and finish sanding her up so I can undercoat tomorrow.

But this is open to change.

Chris, I agree with what everyone has said above regarding surface preparation for natural metal surfaces— especially true for Alclad Lacquers but applicable to most others as well. However, I’ve been experimenting with another method simulating individual panels which works extremely well— painting your base natural metal finish, then using metallic colors applied to clear decal paper and applying it as a decal for individual panels. This works great for simulating the variance in metallic aircraft finishes. First, I “base coat” in an overall metallic paint. Then I apply decal paper painted in different shades of metallic colors. I usually size the decal (with calipers) before cutting, but for unusual shapes, I cut an approximate sized decal, and use a scalpel blade to carefully follow a panel line, removing the excess decal as I go. It won’t always work on extremely curved surfaces (such as prop spinners), but it’s perfect for wings and fuselage sides. It also works well for canopy frames. This method prevents masking problems in the base coat, and eliminates the problems with “residue and detritus” that can get under successive coats. It’s also less messy and more forgiving.
VR, Russ

Dennis,
Yes, we have quite similar interests. But I'm going to try and stay on topic here for other readers, so some "bare metal decal" options are explained in the last paragraph...so skip to that if you want just the "short version".

I started building models in 1959, with the usual kits from my local drugstore. I moved into HO trains in the early 60s. I built plastic models and painted figures (mostly Imrie-Risely and Bugle and Guidon) through the early 70s. My modeling was interrupted by 30 years of military service, however, I painted Series 77 miniatures and moved into collecting brass HOn3. Until 1997 when I went back to building aircraft for my teacher-wife who needed aircraft from the Wright Flyer to the Space Shuttle for her classroom.

When I retired from the Military, I landed a job in a local hobby distributor, who had a storefront LHS until the owner passed away unexpectedly and the family liquidated the business. In the meantime, I built all kinds of models for commission, and had a fair business going until I realized I wasn't having much fun building models for others, and being retired once already, really didn't want my own business, which was taking up a lot of my time. I had also joined a local modelers group that supplies models to the Seattle Museum of Flight displays. I currently have one of my "decal bare metal" aircraft in a display on Washington State Military Aircraft--a Special Hobby B-18A.

I learned the decal technique from a gentleman who supplied models to the USAF Museum at McChord Field WA and was a IPMS Nationals award wining modeler. Although he's passed on, his technique was pretty amazing, and can still be found on numerous models in the museum. It's a great alternative to masking all those separate panels, but it does require some accuracy in using a caliper to measure, then cut individual panels, and some practice working with a scalpel along panel lines. Many don't realize decal paper can be airbrush painted just like the surface of a model-- it's also a great way to get matching colors and widths in stripes. I keep a stock of blank decal film on hand specifically for this reason. I also use it for replicating aircraft de-icing boots and canopy frames, rather than painting with masks. I use Alclad Clear Gloss to coat the decal afterwards to blend it into the surface (even for canopy frames as Alclad Gloss is crystal clear over clear parts), and applied properly, Alclad Clear Gloss is the best clear I've ever used for "bare metal". Sealed with Alclad, the decal blends beautifully into the base finish perfectly. Occasionally, I carefully use Solve-a-set to get a decal to conform to a compound surface. Although it seems like a difficult alternative to painting, it eliminates masking, and the mess of painting more than one finish. Another benefit is you have a ready made supply of "metallic" finishes ready for the next bare metal model waiting in a drawer when you need it.
VR, Russ

P.S. I forgot to mention- painting decal paper works best with model lacquers and enamel paints, and if you are using Alclad, you need to base coat the decal in black gloss (you don’t need to do that for Testors, Floquil, Mr. Color or Tamiya Metallic colors. If you plan on using Acrylics, you’ll need to prime the decal surface with a good acrylic primer, or just spray on Testors Dullcoat (I decant the spray can into my airbrush thinned 50:50 with Testors airbrush thinner. This gives the acrylics something to “bite”.
VR, Russ

Vicious,Jessie,Dennis and Russ,
Thanks so much guys for your input.
Dennis I'm going straight out of the box for this one as G*50 Bonnie Bea, I've added scratch built seat belts and a little plumbing for the external tanks. I may also add brake lines, we'll see.

On the way home from doing a recovery run,stopped off and picked up model master gloss black, so I'm good to go.just finishing up the masking the canopy

So the plan for the rest of the day is finish masking the open canopy and also mask the closed one as I'm still figuring out how to minimise scratching when cutting masking tape. this way I can choose the best one. and finish sanding her up so I can undercoat tomorrow.

But this is open to change.

In any case, I'm going to give this a try! THANKS MUCH for mentioning it, and EXPLAINING how it's done!!!

PS- Is there a specific brand of decal film that you prefer to use?

Quoted Text

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In any case, I'm going to give this a try! THANKS MUCH for mentioning it, and EXPLAINING how it's done!!!

PS- Is there a specific brand of decal film that you prefer to use?

---

Dennis,
I use Walthers 8.5" X 11" clear decal paper, and had a pretty good stock of it until my local Model RR store closed, now I use a very similar brand of paper (the manufacturer escapes me (and I'm remodeling the work space in my garage shop so I can't easily access the brand). I buy it from my (not so local) LHS. You can also buy it from Squadron and Sprue Brothers though. I would stay away from Testor's "half sheet" paper. My experience with Testors paper is it's more "filmy" (the best word I can use to describe it), and does not cut or conform well.

I base coat the Decal with Alclad Black "Micro Primer and Porefiller, but any good Gloss Black that sprays on thin will work. I've tried using straight Alclad paints without base coating-- but they come out translucent (which is ok for some applications). Other paints, such as Testor's enamels, Tamiya, Mr. Color (they have a new range of metallics) don't need the black undercoat that Alclad requires. I've also thought about using white decal paper as well with Alclad, which might eliminate the need to base coat, but I haven't tried that. I'd think it might leave a thin but noticeable line of white around the decal. I also make many of my own decals using my printer, which is a whole other story. This waist gunner figure model below was done completely by using "home built" decals--the small "warning labels" are made using Alclad metallic painted decal paper overlaid with black printed decals, the effect (in person anyway) can be rather stunning:

https://largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=3273

VR, Russ

Hi, Russ!

Essentially, the colors for the "Djigooblie" name letters are a WHITE base, with a RED center. It's not a complicated design, but the letters themselves are done a "stylized- font", which has no real "letter-type". It's an "individualized" kind of thing...