Was painting my BF109E...Galland. Had laid down the gruviolet 2 days ago( airbrushed). Painting the nose and tail with yellow used blue painters tape to mask. After the Tamiya yellow had dried began removing the tape to set up next color. Horrified to see large patches of the grey and underside blue had peeled off. Used Testors acrylics on these. Went ahead and laid the graugrun...a bit more pulled up with tape removal. After that dried I hit it with rattlecan dullcoat. Will give it a bit then retape over the graugrun and see if I dont lose any of it to the tape. Never had this problem ever with enamel...sigh those are getting impossible to find anymore.

So anyone have any other method that may keep my paint down on surface?

Steve,
I have found that even the blue painters tape can be too tacky for acrylics. Using an automotive primer as the first coat can help some, but the most effective method I have found to keep tape from pulling up acrylics is to stick the tape to my jeans before I apply it to the model. This reduces the tackiness enough to keep it from peeling the paint. It's important to make sure the existing paint layer is thoroughly cured so lint doesn't get embedded, and you also have to be especially careful not to lay down too thick a coat, which will bleed under the tape (but you already knew that part, I'm sure).

I have also had issues with the Testors Model Master acrylics coming off with tape and quite a few others have had the same issues. I have also had blue painters tape leave residue on other paints, almost like glitter. Tamiya yellow tape hasn't caused problems with the MM acrylic for me. Green Frog tape did the same thing. I recently found a purple 3M tape for delicate surfaces but haven't tried it yet.

Previous discussions stated that the MM acrylic doesn't have much adhesion to plastic and needs a good primer, like Mark said. I don't use it too often unless it is a freehand pattern that doesn't need masking or I can use putty, or it will be a final coat.

You know, a much cheaper alternative to Tamiya tape is to go to Hobby Lobby and buy Kabuki tape in the paper section. It has patterns-- but it's the same tape as Tamiya. A three pack is about half the cost of Tamiya tape. I particualarly like the black stripe pattern because I can use it to line up the tape. I still use Tamiya for some projects, because it comes in various widths, but for general use, Kabuki tape is fine. Another trope I use is 3M "Post It" toe tape which you can buy at Office Depot-- its more expensive, but extremely low tack.
VR, Russ

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You know, a much cheaper alternative to Tamiya tape is to go to Hobby Lobby and buy Kabuki tape in the paper section. It has patterns-- but it's the same tape as Tamiya. A three pack is about half the cost of Tamiya tape. I particualarly like the black stripe pattern because I can use it to line up the tape. I still use Tamiya for some projects, because it comes in various widths, but for general use, Kabuki tape is fine. Another trope I use is 3M "Post It" toe tape which you can buy at Office Depot-- its more expensive, but extremely low tack.
VR, Russ

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Hi, All!

Hmmm. I'm going by a "HOBBY LOBBY" store, down in the "Tri-Cities Area", today. Think I'll pick up some Kabuki Tape while I'm down there, in lieu of buying more Kabuki Tape with a TAMIYA logo on the package...

VR, Dennis

PS- I've used a lot of the 3M Post Its in my time- I've found that buying a 5-pack of the "cheapie"-stuff at any "Dollar Store" works just as well...

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Steve,
I have found that even the blue painters tape can be too tacky for acrylics. Using an automotive primer as the first coat can help some, but the most effective method I have found to keep tape from pulling up acrylics is to stick the tape to my jeans before I apply it to the model. This reduces the tackiness enough to keep it from peeling the paint. It's important to make sure the existing paint layer is thoroughly cured so lint doesn't get embedded, and you also have to be especially careful not to lay down too thick a coat, which will bleed under the tape (but you already knew that part, I'm sure).

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Hi, Mark!

Not to be a wise guy, but what do you do about the fuzz that the tape picks up from your jeans' fabric..? I tried that many years ago when I was in my early teens. I don't particularly care for fuzz being trapped under my "secondary/un-masked" painted surfaces.

Long ago, I always used TESTORS and PACTRA "Flats", and when TESTORS Model Master Enamels came long, I used them. Later, I used TESTORS Model Master II Enamels, and ever since, I've used these. I like using the TAMIYA-type "Kabuki-tape"; I have no problems. This type of tape is "low tack", and it doesn't leave a residue. It's not cheap, but it works...

VR, Dennis

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Steve,
I have found that even the blue painters tape can be too tacky for acrylics. Using an automotive primer as the first coat can help some, but the most effective method I have found to keep tape from pulling up acrylics is to stick the tape to my jeans before I apply it to the model. This reduces the tackiness enough to keep it from peeling the paint. It's important to make sure the existing paint layer is thoroughly cured so lint doesn't get embedded, and you also have to be especially careful not to lay down too thick a coat, which will bleed under the tape (but you already knew that part, I'm sure).

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Hi, Mark!

Not to be a wise guy, but what do you do about the fuzz that the tape picks up from your jeans' fabric..? I tried that many years ago when I was in my early teens. I don't particularly care for fuzz being trapped under my "secondary/un-masked" painted surfaces.

Long ago, I always used TESTORS and PACTRA "Flats", and when TESTORS Model Master Enamels came long, I used them. Later, I used TESTORS Model Master II Enamels, and ever since, I've used these. I like using the TAMIYA-type "Kabuki-tape"; I have no problems. This type of tape is "low tack", and it doesn't leave a residue. It's not cheap, but it works...

VR, Dennis

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Dennis, that's the point of ensuring the previous coat is completely cured. That way the base coat doesn't run the risk of being tackier than the tape. I have never had an issue with fuzz being left behind after the tape is removed.