I'm fairly new to aircraft modelling.

What is the best way to mask clear parts on a canopy?

I was thinking of trying liquid mask, but I have no idea if it actually works, or if there is a better way.

Thanks,

Dan.

Er, edited response. I should have asked what scale. I only do 1/72 so the following advice might not apply so much to larger scales....

I have kind of given up on cutting masks out of Tamiya tape. I will still do it, but only if the edges where I need to cut the mask are very clear to see, raised a tad helps. I use a surgical scalpel with a light source behind the canopy so I can see where to make the cut.

But if Eduard makes a mask, I will use it instead. I know it adds to the cost of a kit, but I find it worth it.

Hi Dan,

Below is a compilation of canopy painting ideas and techniques by many modelers. But here are my experiences.

First, I am a big fan of dipping the canopy in the floor care product formerly known as Future, now Pledge®
Multisurface Floor Cleaner. That puts a crystal clear coat over it and helps protect it.

How I mask a canopy depends on the size and shape, and intricacy of the framing of a canopy. If it is simple, you cannot beat tape. The simpler the framing the cheaper the tape. Use masking tape - thinner the better. But for complex or curved framing, use Tamiya masking tape. I really haven't found better.

I still occasionally use scotch tape, esp. the frosted type. It grips better than most masking tapes, but can be harder to peel away. This is a case of trial and error, and YMMV ("Your Mileage May Vary" (do people still say that?)).

Next, Liquid mask has its place. There are different types, some are water soluble like Micro Mask. Some are rubber-based, like Vallejo or Wilder. I prefer the water-type like Micro Mask because it is easier to clean up. But it is very thin (pros and cons in that), and despite being tinted blue, can be hard to see. The rubber-based types stick better and do not contract back into a pool like Micro Mask sometimes will; they are also thicker and easier to grip and remove, while Micro Mask can require some picking.

Liquid masks can be used with tape to fill in curves and gaps in tape. You can see that in use here: Tape and Liquid Mask

Another technique is to use decal paper. Spray it the color of the aircraft, cut strips, and apply. Like tape, the straighter/simpler the frames, the better that works.

I hope this helps. The resource folder is here: Canopy Tips

Thanks very much.

To be clear, I prefer 1/48th scale.

Eduard masks are worth every penny, you'll have to fill in sections and for that I use tamiya masking tape, has a stronger adhesive than my other favorite, Washi tape in a million colours bought off of ebay. Ive had poor results using vinyl masks such as those from montex, the tape masks don't creep or shrink as vinly can do, and I find are easier to place (that may just be me)

Dan,
There are as many ways to mask and paint canopies as there are modelers it seems. But, if you want to see a real expert in action, I direct you to Fine Scale Modeling with Paul Budzik. If you haven’t been to Paul’s Website before, you’re in for a real treat. Paul is a master builder, and has won many “Best of Show” IPMS awards. He scratch builds, builds from the box, and modifies kits in expert fashion, and his videos and articles are first class, probably the most professional on the net. Here’s his how to mask and paint canopies video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9PPYEbwPRU

You can catch the rest of his modeling videos by looking at paulbudzik.com
VR, Russ

Thank god I'm not the only one who uses Bare Metal foil!!! It's about the only thing that really works for me in 72nd scale....other than purchased masks.

Kick'n it old school!!!