I am really sorry for flooding this forum with so many questions but I really want to get this Flanker of mine right.
Firstly, I have decided to drop the idea of painting it with the Russian Knights paint scheme & do the IAF scheme or any blue-white scheme. I picked up some academy colors that were available, like light blue, black, red, aluminium & a few more.
Look at these pics, these are 2 diff schemes, but I want to aim on these 2.


The 2nd one is the IAF one. I have white & light blue. I need another blue (like dark blue or bright blue, you guys tell me what will suit it better), but none are available.
Now here is my question. I went down to the store & asked for acrylic paints. They had a set. Will this do? They had a darkish blue colour, but I did not pick it up untill I clarrified with you guys.
Also, can nail polish be a substitute for the colours? If yes, then which is better? I know that there is a very wide range of nailpolish colours.
I cant order any paints online because my mom has a thing about giving her credit card number online. I cant convince her.
Thanks in advance for any advice guys,
Cheers,
WD.

NO,NO,NO, WD, by no means should you use Nail polish on a styrene kit. First off, it's too thick, too glossy, and too toxic/stinky to use for any length of time. Also, since it's based on acetone, a tocopherol, it may "attack" the plastic on your model. The only way to thin it would be acetone, and this would "fog" that gorgeous long canopy. The acrylics from your craft shop should work fine, if your model is primed first. A cheap can of auto primer should workfine, mist in on in very light coats. It may take some mixing and experimentation to get the color you want, but give it a go, the acrylics can't hurt. You may also wish to thin the paint with a bit of distilled water. That will prevent it from covering the detail on that awesome craft.
As far as paying online, has your mom heard of PayPal? It's a lot more secure than most other online methods- and probably even more secure than handing your card to the little chippie at Harrod's!
Also, not sure what the post is like in your part of the subcontinent, but many sites will accept Pymt. by Money order. Something to try next time, maybe. Hope This Helps!
p.s.- no worries about flooding the forum- as long as it's a legitimate Post, that's what we're all here for (o.k., Jim, i'll about site etiquette now...)

I don't know what brand of paints you now have or what selection is available to you in your area, so I will try to answer as best I can with the info given. I would suggest you go with the dark blue because it would be more useful to you in the long run. You can lighten it up with your white if you need to. The aircraft in the photo's seem to be of a more subdued nature in color and I don't think bright blue would work as well.

I would not use nail polish as a paint substitute. It is much too thick. Possibly it can be thinned but I really wouldn't try it. I am guilty of trying to use nail polish on a pewter figure when Inwas about 8 or 9 years old, granted my skills were not yet honed, but I don't think that would have helped. My figure looked horrible.

Please stick to the paints. What brand are they and what color selection is available?
edit:
I type too slow, Logansdad beat me with a really good answer!

Thanks again for the help guys. I guess that nailpolish is a NO. No problem, the acrylics will do then.
This is the shade of light blue that I got in the academy set.

Do you think it matches the shades in the Flanker pics that I posted earlier? I have academy white also. Its only the dark blue that I will buy from the store. I saw the can, it was called Prussian Blue. I will put a drop or 2 of white paint to lighten it a bit, if need be or I will dilute it if need be, with water.
What is Priming? Can you elaborate on this a bit please.
Thanks guys,
Cheers,
WD.

Sorry, WD, I'll try to be more specific in the future. Priming is nothing more than coating the bare plastic of your model with a sprayed on Compound called , well, Primer. It's a type of paint that offers a smooth, Homogeneous (all one kind) surface for the paint to adhere to. You can find it in most Auto body shops or Paint stores. I prefer light grey, as this also helps hghlight any errors I might have made in construction(glue spots, seams, etc.). The best way I've found to use it( Not THE best way, just MY best way... ) is this:
1. build up your model into major sub- assemblies( fuselage, tail, landing gear, etc. If you've got a cockpit, this should usually be assembled & painted prior to gluing it into th fuselage.
2. wash your model thoroughly with warm(not hot!) water and a little dish liquid. use a soft brush (old toothbrush works great) to get into all the panel lines.
3. rinse & dry well with a lint free cloth. I use cotton 'nappies(UNused, of course!) as they're absorbent & very soft- no scratches.
4. Mount the model on a painting frame- a wire hanger cut & inserted into any covenient opening will do.
5. Mask any areas you don't want painted: Cockpit, Clear lenses, Landing gear wells, whatever.(masking is coverin & taping with "masking" tape, just in case that's a new saying to you...)
6. Holding the model by your paint frame(you could also mount it to a desk or other surface- mine is on a plate which sits on a rotating base) Lightly mist on a coat of the primer from about 10"(25mm) away. Don't worry if it doesn't cover the whole model, you actually want that. After this coat dries, lightly mist another coat, paying more attention to the areas missed on your last coat. repeat only until the entire model is a uniform color.IMPORTANT safety note- Do this outside on a calm day. This primer is toxic in large amounts
7. set the primed parts aside to dry for 24-48 hrs. this will allow any volatile compounds in the primer to evaporate. Any flaws noticed in the finish of the model can be fixed & touched up after this 'drying out' period.
8. your model is ready to paint! Enjoy!

Thanks guys, Logansdad in particular Everything you said is taken into account. I am going to get that primer now.
Cheers,
WD.