hi all, firstly merry xmas (belated) i need a little help to re scribe some panel lines on my ar 234. ive seen a sort of ruler tool which looks as if its thin enough to bend around curved sections are they any good? and what are they called? and where do i get one?also whats the best (simplest) way to actually scribe the lines in?

Hmmm... I haven't seen a specific ruler to do the job. My suggestion would be use some thick tape such as masking tape that will help guide your tool and protect the surrounding area. There are various types of tape too that may be of help.

Way back in time before new things, we had these things called veintian blinds ( can't spell it but you know what they are). They use to have thin flexible metal slats, and were the perfect guide for scribling along curved surfaces, you could actually tape one end down and go around the fuselage and over wings with no problems. But alast, as I haven't seen my toes in years, neither have I seen metal blinds...... :-) :-) :-) :-)

A few wraps or layers with PVC electrical tape will guide your blade..... Use a new blade and go with very light pressure,(basically just the weight of the bade should be enough pressure) and let the blade lightly score. After several passes, it should be deep enough that if you turn the blade over and use the back side, it should follow the scored line.

I have also found that plain old everyday brass shim stock, cut into strips will work as well as the old blind metal slat. If you can't get that..... use a soda pop can, and cut a few strips of the aluminum..... (did I spell that right???)

Or you could search out and fine some of those scribing templates in photo-etch. I don't know if Verlindens are still in production.
Main thing is take your time, and score lightly. Easier to correct lightly scored mistakes than deeply scored ones.

thats great advice, if you only knew the amount of old metal blinds ive seen thrown away ( im in the building trade and am always raiding skips) ill keep an eye out for some,the leccy tape idea sounds good also (its somthing else i can probably scrounge!)

Hey Phil, you know that labeling guns, the one you spin the dial w/ the letters on it and press the trigger. Well i use the tape from it. I pull a piece off and pull the backing off and stick it on the model. It bends around it nicely. You can by this at any art and crafts stores. It's called Dymo tape. Anoyher thing i use is the strips the photo-etch comes on, save the long and narrow ones. Go to your LHS and ask for a panel line scribber, this works the best, It's costs around $4-5 dollars. Very easy to use tool.

What about using one of these?



It's an Erasing Shield used for Technical Drawing. It should be available at most Art/ Office stores

I think you can also get them with various designs (Squares, Circles... etc) etched into the shield

Cougar

Hi Phil, Merry Christmas to you too (:-)
I have recently sent in an article on scribing, Rowan will publish it when he gets back. In the process of re-scribing my B-26 Marauder for it, using most of the methods suggested, I discovered the easiest way to scribe ever. Actually part of my method is similar to Scotts idea but there are all the compound curves to take into account. Without re-writing the article it would be difficult to explain. Suffice to say it takes all the pain out of re-scribing. well it does for me anyway.

For scribing the lines I did have many different tools, but about the only one I use now is an Olfa-P cutter. You can get them in craft shops.

Rowan should be back soon

Mal

Phil,
Try the Letter Nametape Embossing type for the old labelers. It can be reapplyed several times and
does not move with the edge of your scriber pressing against the edge. Squadron make the scribing tool
and scraper you are looking for.

i had an idea last night , i have an old credit/debit card i need to destroy, the top edge should be long enough for what i want if i cut the top off, also i intend to "draw" in the lines with a 3mm propelling pencil, can you get away with just drawing the line on or is it best scribed? p.s. on this kit (ar 234) and my imperial walker i used your pre shading technique mal, and im an absolute fan of this, all the pics are in my gallery, ive also got gallery space at fotopics.net and when i get a minute ill put all the build pics of this on there

Phil, I was assuming that you were re-scribing the old Hobbycraft? Ar 234, but having re-checked your pics I assume you are talking about re-instating lost panel lines after sanding. Your credit card should work fine for flatish areas but tape it down, to prevent movement. Dymo tape may be better in these situations. Something else you could try is to cut a straight edge from the thick foil the seals a large tin of instant coffee, or a Pot Noodle (Yuk) :-) Be careful though the compound curvature means that route the line actually takes cannot be joined by a straight edge. My article will, I think, explains this better.
Glad you like the pre-shading, I'm looking at "upgrading" this technique to work better with darker colours. No "data" as yet, apart from a trial on my Hs 129. The idea has merit and did show some promise but the same problems still apply. I'd say stay tuned but it could be a while
Mal

maybe i should have said, its a hasegawa nightfighter version and i need to just fill in some lost panel lines, on the subject of what to use for a guide, the credit card was a mk1 idea, i had a hunt around last night and found quite a lot of old packaging all in clear plastic (blister type)the best being one from a soldering iron that must be almost a foot and a half square so ive got enough to last quite a while. now the bad news! while i was scribing on a section that went from plastic to filler to plastic again, the filler cracked and shattered out, so i had to repair this damage. id used a 11 blade and the only weight i applied was to hold the knife between my thumb and finger without pressing down whatsoever, but i think the blade was far too sharp,and my filler is a mix of talcum powder and klear and was possibly not keyed completly to the surface,that said ill have another go with a pointed scribe i forgot i had, in a toolkit after a practise on some junk plastic it looks very promising phew! ive worn out my fingers with this post so im off for a cup of tea

Yeah, scribing through filler is a problem, CA is the way to go here. Use it if you slip as well A simple pointy scriber may do the trick, but they tend to leave a ridge either side of the scribed line. This can be sanded away, but something like an Olfa-P cutter removes a hair of plastic. Anyway have fun, looking forward to seeing the finished 234
Mal