Hi A/C modelers,

I have a q for you regarding masking of 1/72 canopies.

I am currently in the process of masking my Hellcat's canopy. This is what is suggested by Mike Ashey in his book, but I think he's dealing with 1/48 scale, which IMHO is a helluva lot easier to do at that scale.
1. First burnish the masking tape over the canopy.
2. Using a mechanical pencil, press down at the raised edges, which gives you a line to cut the tape along.
3. Cut along the lines and remove as necessary. Repeat for internal areas.

I tried this yesterday night, but my Academy kit's canopy does not have raised detail, externally or internally. The detail is very small, and not more than 0.2 mm high. I was just not able to draw the outline using my pencil at all. So I can't cut thru the tape!

What do you folks do in such cases?

Another alternative that I can think of is using clear 3M scotch tape for masking. I'd like to know if this will leave traces of gum on the canopy. Or can i use liquid rubber solution without any harmful fx?

Suggestions welcome...

Rgds,
BP.

I'm not positive, but I think Verlinden is the company that puts out canopy masking sets for 1/48 aircraft. You put the precut masks over the winto areas, leaving the frames uncovered---shoot the internal frame color first, then the exterior color to match the fuselage. Maybe someone with experience with these can give a more detailed explanation.

BP,

You're on the right track with Scotch tape for 1/72 scale -- the frame detail will show in the same way that decals can silver over high points on a model, and that gives you a positive visual cue for trimming away the excess tape.

As for tape residue, the best ways to control that are to leave the canopy masked for the shortest possible time -- maybe a couple of days tops. Excess adhesive can be removed with a q-tip or rolled-up corner of a paper towel dipped in Windex.

Once you get some experience with that and if you don't want to go to the expense of precut canopy masks, another masking medium that may give you fewer headaches for 1/72 scale canopies is Parafilm M -- check the recent thread in aircraft forums on canopies on how to use the stuff.

Of course, if you're doing a 1/72 Ju 88 or He 111, I'd buy a set of masks LOL


HTH

Hi modelcitizen62,

I think I've got the problem solved. What I did was to take a roll of 3M Scotch Magic Tape(green box with some plaid design), and cut small strips of it and pasted over the two canopy areas, one for mid-section, and the other for the front curved area. I burnished it down using a toothpick in a rolling pin motion, to drive out bubbles if any.

Then I used my Xacto knife to trim off the panel lines, and used a toothpick to take it off the canopy plastic. It came off very easily. I repeated this for the interior framing also, and it worked like a charm!

However, as you said, I may have problems trying the same approach to German a/c's. However, I'll tackle that when I come to it!

Thanks for your help, Bluebear and Modelcitizen.

Rgds,
BP.

bytepilot: Is that the translucent 3M Magic Tape that becomes transparent when burnished on the surface? You might have found a very helpful tip for airplane modellers who have no access to pre-cut masks (like me)! I'll be trying your method on my next plane, whatever that may be

Hi Jeepney,

Thanks for the info. I thought most of the A/C modellers may be using this stuff, but it's nice to know that I've stumbled upon something new here... !

What I'm using looks like this (as shown at the 3M site):
Scotch® Magic™ Tape 810 (Matte Finish-Permanent)

It's a green coloured pack. The 3M Site says it's permanent, but I found it comes off quite easily using a toothpick. However, the burnished parts stay down flat. The cutting is a quickie with an good sharp pointed knife. The tape doesn't leave any gum residue behind either....

There's another type named #811, which is suposed to be removable, but I can't get that here yet . So #810 it is for the moment.....

Cheers,
BP.

That tape looks familiar! I'll browse through the bookstores later and grab one if I find it. Then it's goodbye to 3M Masking Tape!!!

Thanks for sharing this BP!

BP and Jeep,

I almost forgot about another grade of #M transparent tape -- it comes in a blue box, and you can also find in in office supply stores. It's low tack and not good for sharp curves, but it lays down quite well on flat and shallow-curved surfaces, cuts like the green-label 3M, and is far less likely to leave residue.

HTH

Go Liquid Mask!
I use it All the time for AC canopies. I apply a generous coating over the entire surface. I let it dry over night. The next day the stuff is dry and see through. I take a brand new #11 blade and carefully cut along the edges. I peal away the liquid mask away from the areas to be painted. You can go back and touch up areas if necessary with a fine brush too.

Several companies make self-adhesive masks for specific aircraft, but I have not used them in the past.
I know it is more expensive than tape, but bare metal foil works very well fro me, even on the barely there frames on Italeri 1/72 helo canopies. It's quite thin, ,thinner than tape and burnishes down quite tightly so if there is any line there it will be visable.

Their website, Baremetal foil.com, has a how to use tutorial that even though it is for cars, is very helpful.

As for removing residue, I've had luck using a piece of the same tape to dab at the area, been able to 'roll' it off with a finger, and when all else fails have used the Orange Clean citrus adhesive remover (from the cleaning section of the dollar store, Kmart or Walmart in the US). Plus side to it is that Orange Clean will not damage acrylic painted framing like rubbing alcohol or lighter fliud does.

Mike

Hi MLD,

Yes, I have heard of BMF, and have seen it in some modelling books that I have.

However, I face the basic problem of lack of availability of any kind of modelling related stuff apart from kits here. That includes books, paints, cement, modelling putty, canopy stuff, decals, aftermarket parts, etc.

So I have to either get it from abroad, and drive up my bills, or go and search for alternatives to the same. Which is why I am currently using the tape that I have mentioned.

As Edison said, 'Necessity is the mother of Invention' !

Rgds,
BP.

bp: Got my tape this weekend. It's #810 too. I bought a small roll (75 US cents) for testing. Will be trying it on my girlfriend's 1/144 Shanghai-Dragon F117 or Academy F16. Or maybe an Academy FW190, or ..... argh!! So many kits, so little space!!!

modelcitizen62: Will keep an eye out for the blue-boxed tape. Thanks for the tip!

slodder: I have a jar of Gunze Sangyo's blue stuff but I haven't had the guts to try this yet, especially since its brush is so frazzled.

MLD: I have the same problem that bp has. We are deprived of the tools, kits, materials and references that you guys enjoy (Future/Klear, BMF, pre-cut masks, kit sales, AM parts, etc). So necessity really is the mother of invention. PS: Nice avatar!

Hi Jeepney,

All the best! Hope it works out for you....

BTW, I think the blue tape that modelcitizen62 wasreferring to is the #811 that I was talking about in my post :-) !

BP.

MLD: I have the same problem that bp has. We are deprived of the tools, kits, materials and references that you guys enjoy (Future/Klear, BMF, pre-cut masks, kit sales, AM parts, etc). So necessity really is the mother of invention. PS: Nice avatar! [/quote]

Jeepney,
I understand that the folks who make Bare Metal Foil also make an adhesive that you can paint onto regular aluminum foil, in effect making your own home grown Bare Metal Foil.

But I hear you about not having access to some of these things other places in the world.

Go with the Scotch tape then, good luck.


Mike

ps, nice avatar you've got there too..

I almost forgot an old family recipe for masking fluid . . .

Take a 35 mm film can and fill about 3/4ths full with PVA/white glue. Add two drops of dishwashing liquid, about five drops of rubbing alcohol and one or two drops of red, green or blue food coloring. Stir gently until well mixed.

The detergent and alcohol reduce the surface tension of the glue, making it easier to brush on and cover a surface. The food coloring of course makes it easier to see where the fluid is going, and the mix pretty much ensures that the coloring will not stain anything. I've used this mix before with good results, and it has the virtue of being very inexpensive.

The seal from a film can lid also makes sure that one batch will last a long time -- my first batch lasted well over a year with no ill effects.

Hope this helps.