This in an untested and untried idea, but in theory, i think it works.
here it is:
You will need:
a fan
a model (painted but not wathered)
smoke paint (e.g Tamiya smoke)
airbrush
Place the model so that the nose it facing the fan. Turn the fan on and load the airbrush with the appropriate paint. The wind from the fan should reproduce airflow patterns on the model as it would in 1/1 scale. Spray the paint at a flat angle onto the rear of the exaust ducts. The wind should carry the paint in a realistic pattern.
I shall try it soon on a old 1/48 B-17 (my 'test' aircraft'!)
cheers
Philip
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Exaust Stain Idea
procrazzy
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 05:31 AM UTC
Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 08:17 AM UTC
An interesting idea but I'm not sure that a fan will produce scale wind speed? Also the paint would be much heavier than scale exhuast gases? Plus to get the correct affect you would have to blow the paint out of the exhausts, or your hand and airbrush would get in the way of the airflow from the fan? Maybe you could rig up a pipe to take the paint to the exhuast pipe?
I am possibly wrong but I am interested in the effect you will achieve
Mal
I am possibly wrong but I am interested in the effect you will achieve
Mal
Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 08:20 AM UTC
thats a neat idea, but one possible snag, is that the airbrush could interfere with tha airflow if its between the fan and model.as an experiment though, carry on, if it works out i think it would be the easiest way to simulate any "blown back" stains.. we have a couple of those fans as well so i could get a real blast going! (edit) it has just occurred to me that airbrushes are powered by..........? lol no harm in trying somthing out mind because "who discovered you could milk a cow and what did he think he was doing at the time" -billy connelly
Hoovie
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 02:41 PM UTC
what fan speed would be 300mph?
Anyway try and post pictures!
I would thin the paint just in case?
Also might be good way for grease stains as well??
Ron
Anyway try and post pictures!
I would thin the paint just in case?
Also might be good way for grease stains as well??
Ron
TreadHead
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 03:23 PM UTC
"......what fan speed would be 300mph?......"
Or what airbrush pressure?
Tread.
mother
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2005 - 03:41 PM UTC
The only thing i'm worried about, the paint will dry comming out the back side of fan before it has a chance to stick. I'm very intrested in knowing. Keep us posted.
procrazzy
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Posted: Friday, February 11, 2005 - 03:56 AM UTC
Sadly i do not have a fan so i will use a hairdryer set on cool (to stop the paint exploding!)
cheers
Philip
cheers
Philip
Posted: Friday, February 11, 2005 - 03:51 PM UTC
Ever since I first read this, I have had the image of a smoke coloured wall with the outline shape of a B-17 on it.......
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Henk
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Henk
procrazzy
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Posted: Saturday, February 12, 2005 - 04:58 AM UTC
My airbrsuh has decided to die on me! I think it is because of the cotton-buds i have been using to clean it. All the fibres have mucked the whole thing up. Every time i sparyed, bubbles appeard in the paint pot. I then fixsed it but hardely any paint would come out of the nozzle.
Please help.
cheers
Philip
p.s Anyone know what will remove paint from it? (acrillics and enamels).
Please help.
cheers
Philip
p.s Anyone know what will remove paint from it? (acrillics and enamels).
Hoovie
California, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 12, 2005 - 11:11 AM UTC
Yes denatured alacohol and mineral spirits
cheap and works for both repecictvally!
You can also let soak but remove any rubber parts!!
Ron
cheap and works for both repecictvally!
You can also let soak but remove any rubber parts!!
Ron
Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2005 - 12:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ever since I first read this, I have had the image of a smoke coloured wall with the outline shape of a B-17 on it.......
Henk you crack me up :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Philip,
You must always ensure that your airbrush is spotless after every spraying session. After finishing spraying empty any remaining paint out of the brush then spray neat thinner to clean out the nozzle. Then strip down the airbrush and clean all the parts, being careful not to damage any of them. I useually leave the nozzle soaking in cellulose thinner until the next sesion. As Ron says, remove any rubber "O" rings or teflon washers (keep them safe) Doing this makes sure that if I haven't gotten rid of all paint it is still soft and I give it another clean before attaching it to my brush. It is the mos delicate part, along with the needle, so I use the corner of a paper towel, twisted into a point to clean it out. With my Badger 200 I used to soak the main body, after removing the air hose connection, after about 4-5 sessions. This is what you might need to do to completely clear the blockage that the bubbles indicate.
You can buy denatured alcohol from the Chemist. I think that's the same as Isopropynol. If it is it is quite expensive in the UK, or it is at least where I used to buy it from about £5.00 per 1/2 litre. I get it for £5.50 trade, for a litre. Cellulose thinner is also expensive and is difficult to find. Halfords might do it, the last time I got some from there it was £4.50 for 0.25 litre. I get this for 40p per litre from work. Sorry I can't ship it. Bog standard white spirit might work but it is not nearly as agressive as cellulose thinner, it is however very cheap and is available everywere.
HTH.
Mal
Augie
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2005 - 11:43 AM UTC
I'd assume that the wind speed from a fan would have to be 300mph/35th scale,or about 8-9mph. Does that make sense to you guys??????
procrazzy
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, February 14, 2005 - 01:20 AM UTC
Yeah, something like that.
Would ultrasonic cleaners work (like the type used at the dentist? I have seen some on e-bay for under £20.
cheers
Philip
Would ultrasonic cleaners work (like the type used at the dentist? I have seen some on e-bay for under £20.
cheers
Philip
Posted: Monday, February 14, 2005 - 10:36 AM UTC
Hi Phillip
Do you mean use an ultrasonic cleaner on the airbrush? That's something I've never heard of anyone trying - it might be a brilliant idea for shifting dried on paint...
All the best
Rowan
Do you mean use an ultrasonic cleaner on the airbrush? That's something I've never heard of anyone trying - it might be a brilliant idea for shifting dried on paint...
All the best
Rowan
procrazzy
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Posted: Monday, February 14, 2005 - 10:20 PM UTC
Yes, for an airbrush. Once, at the dentist, my mum put some of her old jewlerry (it was all grubby and dirty, in teh deep places) when it came out, it looked better than new!
cheers
Philip
cheers
Philip
procrazzy
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 03:39 AM UTC
Went to hannants today. Got some badger airbrsuh cleaner (the type in the areosol can) It works like a dream! I found out that the problem was that fluff from the q-tips got stuck in the tip.
cheers
Philip
cheers
Philip
kaysersoze
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 08:16 AM UTC
my 2pence worth.
on the exhaust staining, ive always used layers of black chalk dust. i spray a matte varnish layer, let it dry, then use a soft brush to brush on the chalk powder, like i am looking for a finger print, sorta thing. keep doing that while holding the plane at the correct angle, and job done. works for gun smoke too.
on the exhaust staining, ive always used layers of black chalk dust. i spray a matte varnish layer, let it dry, then use a soft brush to brush on the chalk powder, like i am looking for a finger print, sorta thing. keep doing that while holding the plane at the correct angle, and job done. works for gun smoke too.
Grumpyoldman
_ADVISOR
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 08:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Cellulose thinner is also expensive and is difficult to find.
WoW... Mal.... I never knew that.... over here I use it for all my paint thinning and clean up (I use mostly enamels, but use the lacguer thinner for cleanning up the airbrushes reguardless of either enamels or acrylics, I also brush if over my resin parts before priming, leaves a mold release free surface with no fuss)).... just about any hardwear store carries it in the pint, quart and gallon cans.... I usually buy the quarts for about 5 bucks.
Phillip... stop using those Q-tips-cotton buds for cleaning your airbrush..... get a pack or two of those Micro-Brushes, they don't leave fibers behind, and since you are using them for cleaning they don't get dirty, just splash around in the thinners, cleans them, and they last a long time. They only cost about a buck and a half here..... for a pack of around 20 or 30... (never counted them).... Also what brand and model of airbrush you using?
procrazzy
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 10:07 AM UTC
Was using hannants but now started using xtracryilix. I cleaned the airbrush and then started spraying but the pot started bubbling again and the spray was irregular and splattry, i think the needle may be bent.
cheers
Philip
cheers
Philip
Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 10:21 AM UTC
Hi Phillip
If the needle's bent, you can usually feel it - even if you can't see it.
Try gently rolling the needle-point onto a clean piece of glass (or similar) under your finger-tip - you should be able to feel if there's an irregularity.
All the best
Rowan
If the needle's bent, you can usually feel it - even if you can't see it.
Try gently rolling the needle-point onto a clean piece of glass (or similar) under your finger-tip - you should be able to feel if there's an irregularity.
All the best
Rowan