Hi all-
After taking a few snaps of my submission to the Double Take group build it became painfully clear to me that there's more to photographing models than "point and click."
So I'm hoping that some of you would share some tips on:
Setting up a shot (no, not related to drinking... I can do that just fine thank you)
Lighting
And anything else we might need to know...
Thanks in advance and CHEERS!
-Scott
General Aircraft
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Are my models really that bad? Photo Q & A
BigTon
District of Columbia, United States
Joined: February 12, 2005
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Joined: February 12, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 10:40 AM UTC
Pixilater
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 16, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 11:12 AM UTC
It's difficult to make suggestions when we have no reference of what you're now getting for photos. Before my latest medical problems, I was a media arts major concentrating on photography. I can probably help if I knew what help you need.
USArmy2534
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,716 posts
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Joined: January 28, 2004
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AeroScale: 246 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 12:33 PM UTC
I can not see your photos as the gallery is down for maintenence, but I can give you some general tips. First, I am assuming you are using a digital camera.
1.) If that is the case, and if you have a detail shot feature make sure you have it on.
2.) Natural light. I can not emphasis this enough. Not only does sunlight help determine what your model really looks like to the eye, it realistically shows what your model looks like on camera as well.
3.) Use shadows to your advantage. Like you would to a black wash in crevaces for your shadows, use the natural shadows too.
4.) White balance. Most (?) digital cameras have a white balance feature. Check your manual. This function balances the colors that your camera "sees."
5.) Take LOTS of pictures. Take multiple pictures of the same angle and choose from the best.
6.) Control your breath. My camera is fairly sensitive and requires control. If you have taken any training in shooting a rifle, then this is the same technique. When you are at the top or bottom of a breathe, then slowly squeeze the button. No jerking movements. Avoid taking shots while in the middle of inhaling and exhaling. This helps get clearer photos.
As soon as the gallery gets back online, post some images if you haven't and we can better idea of what we are dealing with.
Jeff
1.) If that is the case, and if you have a detail shot feature make sure you have it on.
2.) Natural light. I can not emphasis this enough. Not only does sunlight help determine what your model really looks like to the eye, it realistically shows what your model looks like on camera as well.
3.) Use shadows to your advantage. Like you would to a black wash in crevaces for your shadows, use the natural shadows too.
4.) White balance. Most (?) digital cameras have a white balance feature. Check your manual. This function balances the colors that your camera "sees."
5.) Take LOTS of pictures. Take multiple pictures of the same angle and choose from the best.
6.) Control your breath. My camera is fairly sensitive and requires control. If you have taken any training in shooting a rifle, then this is the same technique. When you are at the top or bottom of a breathe, then slowly squeeze the button. No jerking movements. Avoid taking shots while in the middle of inhaling and exhaling. This helps get clearer photos.
As soon as the gallery gets back online, post some images if you haven't and we can better idea of what we are dealing with.
Jeff
BigTon
District of Columbia, United States
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 102 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 102 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 12:33 PM UTC
Well, it seems that I can't get into my gallery right now, so I'll just put a link to where I had posted this before...
http://armorama.com/forums/47658&page=1
Hope that works...
Anyway, I wasn't looking for anything too specific... Just some basic tips for myself and the rest of us.
Keeping in mind that I don't think I could sneak a Digital SLR past my wife's keen budgeting skills... :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Cheers... and thanks Pix!
-Scott
http://armorama.com/forums/47658&page=1
Hope that works...
Anyway, I wasn't looking for anything too specific... Just some basic tips for myself and the rest of us.
Keeping in mind that I don't think I could sneak a Digital SLR past my wife's keen budgeting skills... :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Cheers... and thanks Pix!
-Scott
BigTon
District of Columbia, United States
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 102 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 102 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 12:38 PM UTC
Well... I guess that link didn't quite work.
Hopefully when the gallery comes back up I'll be able to post some goodies. Thanks again Pix-
Jeff-
Thanks! I'll put those tips to good work soon as I'm about to take some pictures of my latest (A Royal Navy Hellcat Mk. 1)
-Scott
Hopefully when the gallery comes back up I'll be able to post some goodies. Thanks again Pix-
Jeff-
Thanks! I'll put those tips to good work soon as I'm about to take some pictures of my latest (A Royal Navy Hellcat Mk. 1)
-Scott
ave
Klang, Malaysia
Joined: March 24, 2003
KitMaker: 417 posts
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Joined: March 24, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 05:27 PM UTC
Jeff has made some very good points, may I add that for closeup shots, try to get a tripod, it makes all the difference
Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 07:50 PM UTC
Hi Scott
I agree with all the advice offered and would add that I don't use flash for close-up work. This is because a single flash gun will give hard shadows unless you can soften it by "bouncing" the light. Also, you'll need to be able to turn the flash intensity right down to avoid overexposure.
You can buy macro flash rings, which are designed to give soft, even light for extreme close-ups, but I've never tried one.
I think my best investment was a simple tripod so I can work with available light and use the camera's self-timer for long exposures to achieve good depth of field. I also use a simple reflector made from kitchen foil to add some "fill light".
And, of course, the beauty of digital photography is that you can practise, practise, practise without wasting any film!
Hope this helps
Rowan
I agree with all the advice offered and would add that I don't use flash for close-up work. This is because a single flash gun will give hard shadows unless you can soften it by "bouncing" the light. Also, you'll need to be able to turn the flash intensity right down to avoid overexposure.
You can buy macro flash rings, which are designed to give soft, even light for extreme close-ups, but I've never tried one.
I think my best investment was a simple tripod so I can work with available light and use the camera's self-timer for long exposures to achieve good depth of field. I also use a simple reflector made from kitchen foil to add some "fill light".
And, of course, the beauty of digital photography is that you can practise, practise, practise without wasting any film!
Hope this helps
Rowan
flitzer
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: November 13, 2003
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
AeroScale: 743 posts
Joined: November 13, 2003
KitMaker: 2,240 posts
AeroScale: 743 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 10:17 PM UTC
Some excellent advise above.
I always try and shoot outside in natural daylight, especially on a bright but cloudy day.
Also time of day will change the shadows/highlights etc.
Plus the tri-pod advise is solid gold.
Hope you crack it.
PS...If you shooting indoors, you can set up under a window and use natural light that way. And if you do have to use flash and don't have the special light kit you can wrap a paper tissue or two over or around the cameras built-in flash to soften and difuse the effect.
Cheers
Peter
:-)
I always try and shoot outside in natural daylight, especially on a bright but cloudy day.
Also time of day will change the shadows/highlights etc.
Plus the tri-pod advise is solid gold.
Hope you crack it.
PS...If you shooting indoors, you can set up under a window and use natural light that way. And if you do have to use flash and don't have the special light kit you can wrap a paper tissue or two over or around the cameras built-in flash to soften and difuse the effect.
Cheers
Peter
:-)