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Stuka... my first pre-shading attempt
Name_1s_MUD
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 07, 2005
KitMaker: 226 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 02:55 AM UTC
I have just got back into the hobby about a year ago and I have been very cautious about trying to pre-shade or post shade. My airbrushing skills are not very well developed. However, I finally got the courage to try my first pre-shade. Well... it's actually my second attempt. The first one I gave up on.

Here it is... the bottom of my 1/48th Revell/Monogram Pro-Modeler series (I believe this is a repackage of the Hasegawa kit). I will attempt the top side tomorrow.



Thanks,
Brian
Martinnnn
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 03:30 AM UTC
Well looks like you know how to pre-shade! It looks nice to me!

Got more pics of the whole aircraft?

Martin
IndyCopper
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Indiana, United States
Joined: March 16, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 03:37 AM UTC
Yeah, I think I would have to agree that you have got that technique down alright. I have yet to try it because I don't think I could airbrush a straight ligt, even following the panel lines as a guide. I would end up with wavy preshaded panel lines But that really does look good so far, keep up the good work.
95bravo
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Kansas, United States
Joined: November 18, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 03:44 AM UTC
I've a couple of questions.

1) What pressure are your unning your airbrush at?

2) Are you using acrylics or enamels and will this work with enamels?

3) Do you use straight flat black or gray?

Last but not least, is there an article how to do this here on Big A?

I think it looks great. Do you use a single or double action airbrush?

Has anyone done this with natural metal finishes?

Yeah I'm full of questions this morning...
Name_1s_MUD
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 07, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 04:31 AM UTC
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I've a couple of questions.

1) What pressure are your running your airbrush at?
25psi

2) Are you using acrylics or enamels and will this work with enamels?
Solely Tamiya acrylics

3) Do you use straight flat black or gray?
Flat black. The good thing about pre-shading, is you can tone down the black easily by an overspray... hold the airbrush back about a foot and spray away. The only time you'd want to be more subtle is

Last but not least, is there an article how to do this here on Big A?
Don't know, but there is a grrrreat video on Testor's Model Workshop here:
http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video4bg_2.htm
This is how I learned.

I think it looks great. Do you use a single or double action airbrush?
Double action... Badger Anthem 155


almonkey
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: March 23, 2003
KitMaker: 2,124 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 04:33 AM UTC
i have only been using the preshade method since last october and it is the best thing i ever started doing on my models.

indycopper, you dont have to follow the panel lines exactly, if you have a bit of a wobble you can tidy it all up with the top coat

95bravo, there are loads of articles and features on this subject on this site, you just have to go to the features section. heres a link that might help you along https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/160

edit. doh! almost forgot to say, that your pre shading looks bang on, brian, looking forward to seeing it finished
Name_1s_MUD
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 07, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 04:41 AM UTC
The video I referenced before on the Testor's Scaleworkshop site is great.

You really need to see the action of airbrushing. The articles don't do it justice. It is a short downloadable video and well worth the time.

Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 07:07 AM UTC
Pre-shading is thought to only work on light colours but I have proved to myself that it can be used efectively with darker top camouflage colours See my article that Phil points to. Since writing my article I have proven that white is a good primer colour to use if pre-shading. I have thought of a, possibly, better way to pre-shde darker colours and when I can get around to painting my latest batch of models I will try and write a follow up article.

Brian, that is very good pre-shading
Mal
Name_1s_MUD
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 07, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, March 31, 2005 - 05:48 PM UTC
Here's a sample of the top. Because of the dark color... the pre-shading doesn't seem to be as apparent as the bottom.
I'm applying the next color in the camo tonight... it is lighter... so it should show the pre-shade more.
Name_1s_MUD
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Illinois, United States
Joined: January 07, 2005
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Posted: Friday, April 01, 2005 - 02:34 AM UTC
awwwww man. i lost the rear wheel. It snapped off and I have no idea where it went. Don't you just hate that? You're almost done with a model and then you can't find a piece.... arrrrgh!
almonkey
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: March 23, 2003
KitMaker: 2,124 posts
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Posted: Friday, April 01, 2005 - 09:17 AM UTC
don't use the vacuum cleaner in there! actually if you think the wheel ended up on the floor you can use a hoover to find it by putting tights ( i beleive you americans call them pantyhose) over the nozzle then go over where you think it could be, hold the end over a plastic container, switch off, then carefully go through the bits of dust, i have found 3 mil square lost photo etch by doing this
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