NOTE: I fixed it! See: I FIXED IT

Also My experiment with 2 Salt V 3 Paints & 3 Glosses 2 Salt V 3 Paints & 3 Glosses

Those of you who are familiar with making paint chips via putting salt on a model, over spraying it, then removing salt, I tried this.

The salt messed up the surrounding paint. It was OK so I over coated with Future. Something has further attacked the Future.

Any idea what happened, and how to prevent it?

I know how you feel...I also tried doing the salt-chipped paint approach and I got the same effect you experienced. I hope someone could give a tip on how to it happened...

Cheers

Hi Fred!

Seems the P-40 build is becoming a hard dogfight!
I'm not a "salt chip paint" specialist as I didn't used this technique at all. But my advice would be: NEVER try a new technique on a new model! Always try with spare parts or old models you plan to trash! Or buy Smer kits! They are perfect for experimenting! :-)

Anyway, good luck!

Jean-Luc

Fred

I haven't tried this technique yet, but from what I have read they use what they call Kosher salt (doesn't make any sense to an Aussie :-) ) which appears to be a lot coarser than table salt.

Also from memory they used acrylic paints.

What paint type and salt did you use?

And unfortunately I have no idea how to rectify thius without a complete strip and start over.

Brian

Hi Fred.To me,it looks like some leftover salt reacted with the Future.From a chemical standpoint,this is bad news.Future is a water soluble acrylic coating.Chloride solvents are used to bond acrylics.Salt is Sodium Chloride.These same chlorine molocules are attacking your acrylic based paints.
When I use the salt technique on armor builds,I use enamels for primers and base coats,oils and enamels for washes,enamels and acrylics for details and drybrush.You should be able to strip the paint off your aircraft and start over no harm,no foul.
Sorry guy

Guys, thank you for the replies.

Yes, the paint had cured 24+ hours. The only fresh paint was on the tail.

An enamel automotive silver is the primer, dried 24+ hours before the Polly Scale OD went on. The OD dried about 2 days before the Future.

The OD had the 'rash' around most of the salt grains before the Future went on. I didn't see the rash after the first Future coat. The second did not cloud for at least 2 hours.

I rubbed off the salt and washed off the areas with distilled water.

I am contemplating

over spraying the Future with an enamel, any idea how this will work?

removing the Future and coating with something else,

stripping Future and OD. What strips Polly Scale?

One thing, the salt I used is Morton Light salt. Perhaps not using straight table salt vexed me?

Hey all....

Your problem is you are using acrylic paint. Your paint carrier is either water or alcohol, both of which will partially dissolve the salt....which is why you are getting those white spots.

I did the same thing with my BM21 GRAD....overpainted the primer and salt with acrylic paint....I believe it was actually Tamiya paint, as I don't think it really matters what the paint is, but its actually the carrier in the paint.

Anyway...what I did was over spray it again with MM Enamels and had no problem after that. I am sure you can use any kind of enamel paint, but thats what I had on hand.

Knowing what I know now...I wouldn't hesitate to use the technique again, just wouldn't bother using any acrylic paints with it.