i am doing the tamiya zero fighter A6M2 with the interor color of Grun Rlm (62) model masters. i was wondering what color the wash of the cockpit should be
thanks
Nick6570
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Help on cockpit Wash
Nick6570
Georgia, United States
Joined: September 18, 2005
KitMaker: 20 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: September 18, 2005
KitMaker: 20 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 05:11 AM UTC
Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 05:43 AM UTC
Hi Nick,
I'd suggest a very dark green or a diluted black.
I'd suggest a very dark green or a diluted black.
Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 06:08 AM UTC
Hi Nick!
If you mix future with acrylics (very dark brown) you can also have some nice results... I always replace the water with Future to do my washes now.
Jean-Luc
If you mix future with acrylics (very dark brown) you can also have some nice results... I always replace the water with Future to do my washes now.
Jean-Luc
Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 04:46 PM UTC
Here are examples of my various wash formulas: Wash Samples
Bus
Sao Paulo, Brazil
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 846 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: December 11, 2003
KitMaker: 846 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 05:19 PM UTC
Maybe some raw umber very diluted..
Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 07:32 PM UTC
Fred
Have you thought about doing an article on this?
Nick,
I agree with what as already been said, dark green, black, or very dark brown. Basically what you are after is something to create "shadows". The obvious colour being a darker shade of the base colour, in your case Grun Rlm (62). You could try darkening RLM 62, but to get a decent contrast you may as well simply go for a dark green, such as RLM 70 black green. Greens and browns work well together and you might find that a dark brown works well, burnt umber artist oils is one I use, but sticking to RLM numbers then try RLM 81 brown violet. If you don't have a locker full of paints then I would simply darken your RLM 62 with black. IMHO I think straight black would be to stark, in this case.
I have just started using Klear (Future in the US) for my interior washes and it seems to work well (use only with acrylic paints). Washes tend to "lift" the base coat, unless you have a protective barrier. I used to give the parts that were getting a wash a coat of Klear, wash the parts, then matt coat. By using Klear as the "carrier" for the wash I effectively eliminate one step.
After the wash I dry brush with the original base colour and then, sometimes, one or two lighter shades.
Just one final word on the subject, Nick whatever colour YOU use on YOUR model has got to be correct I have been experimenting for years and I'm still changing
Mal
Quoted Text
Here are examples of my various wash formulas:
Have you thought about doing an article on this?
Nick,
I agree with what as already been said, dark green, black, or very dark brown. Basically what you are after is something to create "shadows". The obvious colour being a darker shade of the base colour, in your case Grun Rlm (62). You could try darkening RLM 62, but to get a decent contrast you may as well simply go for a dark green, such as RLM 70 black green. Greens and browns work well together and you might find that a dark brown works well, burnt umber artist oils is one I use, but sticking to RLM numbers then try RLM 81 brown violet. If you don't have a locker full of paints then I would simply darken your RLM 62 with black. IMHO I think straight black would be to stark, in this case.
I have just started using Klear (Future in the US) for my interior washes and it seems to work well (use only with acrylic paints). Washes tend to "lift" the base coat, unless you have a protective barrier. I used to give the parts that were getting a wash a coat of Klear, wash the parts, then matt coat. By using Klear as the "carrier" for the wash I effectively eliminate one step.
After the wash I dry brush with the original base colour and then, sometimes, one or two lighter shades.
Just one final word on the subject, Nick whatever colour YOU use on YOUR model has got to be correct I have been experimenting for years and I'm still changing
Mal
brandydoguk
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
AeroScale: 643 posts
Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
AeroScale: 643 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 02:52 AM UTC
Hi Nick,
As Mal said there is no one set method, whatever you are happy with is good enough. Lately I've been experimenting with different coloured oils for washes on cockpit interiors.
The last spitfire I built had the interior in Interior Green, I let it dry and then I applied a wash of dark green oil. Again after it had dried I followed with a wash of dark blue.
This seemed to give the colour more depth. I then used a wash of burnt umber in the recesses and shadows followed when dry by drybrushing the original interior green colour. I was quite pleased with the result.
As Mal said there is no one set method, whatever you are happy with is good enough. Lately I've been experimenting with different coloured oils for washes on cockpit interiors.
The last spitfire I built had the interior in Interior Green, I let it dry and then I applied a wash of dark green oil. Again after it had dried I followed with a wash of dark blue.
This seemed to give the colour more depth. I then used a wash of burnt umber in the recesses and shadows followed when dry by drybrushing the original interior green colour. I was quite pleased with the result.