Okay, I've got an Eduard P-400 airacobra that I've finally gotten to the point where I can pre-shade it, but what is the best method because I've heard about air-brushing, regular paint brush, and a basic "sharpie." I'm not a pro so I'd like something a little more on my level; I've thought an awful lot about that "sharpie" idea, but does it look nice when it's done? Oh, and do I need to prime the plane before pre-shading, or is it all right without it?

Thx Spot

Ian,
I like to airbrush and you don't have to have perfect pre-shading lines. You should prime you kit, most of the time I'll just use plane o'l auto primer (lt. gray). I used a marker once, but it keeped bleading through the paint. I also heard other using the marker with out any problems. Using just a brush, well that may leave brush strokes and my show the thickness of the lines. Best to airbrush if you can, and if you do use the marker, draw a few lines on scrape plastic and spray over with the paint your using to see how it works out. Looking forward to seeing your photos.

Mother, thanks for the info., I think I'll give the airbrush technique a try since it seems forgiving. I'll put pictures of it up as soon as it's done. May be a while though since I have a tight schedule right now.

Thanks Spot

I have had the same problems as Joe when using a marker. I tried using a marker a couple times and, esp with lighter colors, getting full coverage is not easy, you really have to put some heavy layers down there. Now I use the airbrush technique, and have not had any problems yet! It takes a little longer, but the end results are worth it.

I have been preshading my aircraft and armour for about a year now and continue to perfect my technique. I found out about a white sandable primer by PlastiKote and sold by WalMart in their automotive department. When applied and dry the surface is quite smooth and will reveal any imperfections for correction. I allow the primer to dry for 24 hours. I then preshade the panel lines, and any surfaces that abut each other at a right angle, with a flat black acrylic, air-brushed.

The final color is then air-brushed onto the model. I normally use acrylic paints for all colors and have been thinning at a 1:1 ratio. Normally I find that at least four coats, applied at one session will just begin to cover the preshading. Stop before the preshading disappears! You can always go back for one more coat, but you cannot erase one too many.

After the paint has dried (again 24 hours) I apply a seal coat of Future floor wax, full strength and air-brushed. Allow this to dry and apply an oil wash to the recessed panel lines.

This combination of efforts can really set off a model.

Good luck and I think you will never paint another model without preshading!!

Here is the technique I was shown by another member here.. Start with three pots of paint, in three diffrent shades of the same colour... After laying down a primer coat, use the mid colour from your three different shades for a base coat.. When that is dry, preshade all your nooks, crannies and panel lines using the darkest shade of the colour you have chosen. Then, thinning the lightest shade to about 70% dust the third coat on lightly blending all colours.. I saw this done using three shades of green for the Demo.. The finished product was rather impressive....

Im currently painting an M42 Duster and am going to try this myself.. Might be time to take some photos..Thanks to Clanky44 for that technique...

Dave

Here is a link to an article I wrote To pre-shade or not to pre-shade This was written sometime ago and I have developed a new method, for which I'm writing another article. It is very difficult to get good pics showing the technique, but I have proven the theory (at the end of the article) about using white primer, and I have taken it further
Mal

Hi Dave,

How's life up in Collingwood, snowed in yet? :-) :-)

You've got the technique down right, just in the wrong order.....

Pre-shading is never necessary, it does however break up the monotony of a paint job. I've found that this technique works quite well, and limits what a certain local modeller I know calls the 'contrived' look of most pre-shading techniques....

1. Step 1 - Since you are going to apply very thinned out coats of paint, you need a primer coat, any dark colour in my opinion will do, I use a flat black (acrylic Tamiya or Polly Scale). Apply this coat over the whole model, thinned out about 30 to 50% with thinner.

2. Step 2 - Pick the final colour you want to paint, and then choose one lighter shade and one darker shade, (don't bother looking at colour charts or bother with authinticity here.... use what looks right). So now you should have three similar colours at hand.

3. Step 3 - Spray the lightest of the three colours over the model, thinned out 30 to 50% with thinner.

4. Step 4 - Spray the recessed panel lines and raised detail with the darkest of the three colours and thin this coat out by 50 to 60% thinner. Use your fine tip and reduce the pressure on your airbrush to say 10 to 15 PSI.

5. Final Step - Thin out the middle colour by a whopping 70 to 80% and blend in the previous two coats of paint. Set the airbrush to 25 to 30PSI and continue to use the fine tip and needle. The trick here is to not allow the paint to build up too much. If you have a duel action airbrush, use it half for spraying paint and half to dry out the paint. What you're doing here is spraying a translucent coat that will blend in with the two underlying coats of paint.

The photo below will show these steps from right to left, if it doesn't come up, just hit the 'my photos' icon below.....

Hope this helps.....

Frank

DOH... :-)
Thanks for straightening that out for me Frank. As for the weather, it was a snow squall warning.. ... Not snowed in yet though...

Here is my attempt at your preshading technique, in the incorrect order.. Didnt turn out to bad for a first timer..

Sorry about the poor quality pic.. Its midnight and Im waiting for the furnace guy to show.. Dam thing wont shut off and its a balmy 85 degrees in here... LOL
Ian, you get the idea of what you are trying to accomplish here

Dave

Dave,

Nice to see one of us is being productive,... I'm in a real funk right now, just keep staring at half-built stuff....

P.S. Interesting drive last night from T.O. to Guelph, you'd think people forgot what snow was!!!!


Frank

Well Frank, I've still got the turret to finish yet.. :-) But at least Im trying something different instead of just blowing on a layer of paint...

Im not surprised with the driving on the highways yesterday.. Amazing isnt it.. People that have lived here all their lives forget it snows sometime near the end of the year... And for about 4 months.. :-)

Dave