Hello, this is my first post here, so Id like to introduce myself. Name is Brian, Im 26, and I just decided to start really modeling seriously. Im mostly into Military aircraft (in general) but more specifically WWII. I picked up pretty much all the tools and equipment I need to start, and my first project is a Hasegawa 1/72 F6F Hellcat. And this leads me to my problem.........

I picked up some add on accessories to spiffy the model up (like a Vacuform canopy, resin wheels and a Photo etched Eduard detail kit.) The problem is, obviously, Ive never worked with a photo etch kit, and so far it is absolutely HORRID looking. I dont know if its my fat fingers, bad vision, or total lack of ability to control small parts, but I really think that Im making what is supposed to look good look.....well, REALLY bad. SO, Im wondering if anyone can tell me if someone makes a resin cockpit for this kit? Stupidly I decided to use the models standard cockpit as a base for the photo etch kit, which means as of right now I have 2 options, buy another Hasegawa 1/72 kit just for the blah interrior (a total of 2 pieces) or find a resin cockpit.

Well, I know there is a learning curve involoved, and thankfully this is not an expensive hobby to make mistakes in. So can anyone here help me?

Thanks,
Brian

P.S. Outside of the above problem things are going pretty good so far. I cant believe how nice things are coming out compared to the butcher jobs I did as a kid (I shudder to think about tube cement now :-) .)

Hi Brian, welcome to the site. Please don't take this as being patronising, it isn't supposed to be in any way, but don't you think using photo etch, resin and so on is a little ambitious for your first kit? I know from experience that some 1/72 PE parts are VERY small and hard to handle...

If you do press on with using them you'll need some needle nose pliers to hold the parts; also, for really small parts try applying the CA this way:

Put a drop or two onto a piece of silver foil (an old food container is ideal)

Hold the PE in the pliers and dip the area that will make contact with the plastic part of the kit into the CA glue

Apply the PE part to the plastic part and hold in place - only needs 10-15 seconds or so normally to bond (longer to cure though obviously)

CA glue comes in different thicknesses, for very small parts I'd recommend using thin CA

Rather than buying another Hasegawa kit for the cockpit parts, try emailiing or writing to them to see if they will provide spares - some manufacturers do this.

Good luck, Happy Christmas, and most of all - have fun!

Indeed, it does seem a bit ambitiuos. Being new to photo-etch this, resin that I didnt know it was going to be so difficult. The resin seat and wheels I bought have not given me any fits, but working with the flimsy and small metal parts of the photo-etch kit are.

Anyways, Ill contact Hasegawa like you suggest. That would be great if I can get spare parts. I guess I tried jumping a little too deep into my first project .)

Thanks again,
Brian

Hey Brian, I found a few resin cockpit sets on the Squadron site but they"re for the Academy & Minicraft kits...also check out Xuron & Etchmate tools, they might help with your photo etched parts...good luck!

Nigel

Hi Brian!

Bienvenue sur Armorama!

I made the same "mistake" as you as I decided to return to this hobby... I bought resin and photoetched parts to do like the "pro modelers" of the magazines... needless to say it was a little bit too ambitious...
My advice would be: buy some good and cheap kits and build them out of the Box. You'll see your skill will improve to a point where resin and PE parts won't be a problem anymore. There is still a lot to learn from an OOB project: glueing, filling, sanding, painting, decaling, weathering and, and, and...

Take it easy...

Jean-Luc

Hello Nigel!

Ok, question about the resin cockpits you mention on the Squadron site. Since they are for the Academy/mincraft set what are the odds it would work in my Hasegawa? As a matter of fact the photo etch kit I have was intended for the Academy/Minicraft kit and I did not even realize it. There appears to be minimal gaps in the photo-etch kit I have, do you think I might just get lucky?

Also, I notice the picture on Squadron has a finish painted kit. These kits dont actually come painted do they?


Also, Ill look at the tools you metioned. One BIG problem I think I have is what Mr. Townsend mentioned and that is I was using straight Zap-a-gap and not a thinner glue. I was applying with a toothpick from a plastic lid, but the glue was so thick it was making noticable puddles.

Finaly, do you think that the next time I attempt a Photo-etch kit that maybe I should start bigger with a 1/48 model and PE kit?

Brian

Yup, maybe thats exactly what I need to do :-) .

Nice to know Im not the only one to jump the boat before he learned to swim!

Brian

Mr Townsend?! Blimey...

For normal use with the thin CA what I do is dip a piece of brass rod or wire into the glue, and apply it that way. Just let a tiny drop run down the wire to exactly where you want it on the model. Works a treat (like Grosse Point Blank and the poison applicator!!!)

One thing with that method - wrap some tape or similar around the handle end, that way you won't grab the wrong end of the wire, a sticky situation to get into

Hi Brian, welcome to armorama and particularly the aircraft section, nice to see you
It is very tempting to jump in with all the stuff available these days, but I would a gree with Jean-Luc in that I would suggest you try cheap kits out of the box. You will find these fun to do and you won't get hung up on trying to figure out how best to handle things like photo etch. Believe me getting a good build with a decent paint scheme and getting the decals to behave is a feat in itself. You will quickly progress and find PE and resin much easier a little further down the road. Like all things it's simply a case of understanding the medium and realising that, now matter how good they look, there are limits to what is achievable. For example, resin parts usually require to be "fitted", if you are used to test fitting normal kit parts this isn't so much of a chore. The real trick with resin is being able to paint all that loverly detail, so getting used to paint techniques is a bonus.
You have come to the right place though because we are all more than will to help you along the route and at you own pace. We have all been where you are, there is nothing that can't be done that a little patience and care can't fix
I have recently, last year, started adding resin cockpit sets to some of my aircraft, you can see some in the gallery.
Looking forward to watching you "take the ride", you'll be amazed how quickly you manage to polish you skills on this sight. All you have to do is ask
Mal

hi brian, its a leaning curve, you said it! i came back to this hobby in 1990 and i'm still building smaller less, complicated stuff. i've got some kits with all the aftermarket stuff i could throw at them in my stash,but what i seem to build is smaller stuff with a little add on here and there, to build up my confidence and skills. i may be building a revell He 177 for the bomber campaign, that has a massive etch set, vac form glazing, and will be the most ambitious kit i've taken on (just need a little dutch courage i think! )

Hi Brian,
I have found that the Tamiya Scissors for seperating PE parts from their frets are absolutely superb.
Initially the cost put me off, but having spent some time ussing them, I have totally changed my opinion.
If only I could get hold of the diamond file, I would be totally satisfied.
I would agree that AM resin and PE parts add a significant learning curve to a new modeller.
I found Hasegawa very helpful when I managed to destroy half of an F14 Fuesalge section when working with Verlindens update set.
Good luck in your task.

John

Hi, John. Do you have the contact info for Hasegawa? I was looking around on the net and couldnt seem to find their information.


Also, I guess starting small isnt such a bad idea :-) . I picked up a set of 4 Airfix kits on e-bay earlier this month. A Dauntless, Avenger, Sea King and Kingfisher. I wanted the Kingfiisher (Something about odd-ball looking planes gets me goin and the set of 4 just happened along. I had eventually planned on doing a Dauntless and Avenger, but the overall looks and fit of these old Airfixs will make good enough for some experience. The Sea King surprised me. It was the kit I had the least amount of interest in out of the four and when I got it in and was looking at it.....wow, what a dandy looking kit!

Oh well, Im already having quite a learning experience. The way the Hasegawa Hellcats drop tank goes together required MAJOR snading, filing and CA gluing. Im not kidding, I must have spent 2 hours off and on working on that one piece. But Its worth it since it now looks like a perfect, continuous part!

Brian

1/48th is probably easier to work with...either way I would take Jean-Luc's advice & start simple with an OOB project... and have fun! Nigel

I think Im going to do a 1/48 next project. I have to place an order with Squadron.com for all my paint and decal solution so I might as well pick up the 0-2A Cessna Skymaster kit Ive been eyeballing (saw Bat 21 on TV the other day, thats why the interest .) Whats better is I have no choice in getting fancy. There are no resin or PE kits for it (and if there is DONT TELL ME :-) .) Should make a nice Out of the Box build, and another easy paint job to let me get used to my new airbrush.

Thanks again everyone,
Brian