If you have read my review of the Eduard Bristol F.2B you will know what a great kit I think it is. About the only thing I can find fault with is that the rigging diagram doesn't show the double wires. I want to make a start on this wonderful kit and the first thing I want to do is drill holes for the rigging wires, so:
Q. Does anyone have, or can point me in the right direction for, info on the complete rigging diagram, including all double wires, for the Bristol F.2b.
From what I have been able to ascertain, there are double wires in both bays, on each side, but it isn't clear if they are at the front and rear of the bays as well, if they go both ways (cross) or what. It is getting quite confusing looking at pics, as not everything is shown well enough to provide the full answer. Waiting with bated breath
Mal
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
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Rigging the Bristol F.2B
Posted: Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 04:20 PM UTC
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 26, 2005 - 01:12 AM UTC
Here is a bit of fun. Left hand column almost to the bottom. There maybe an image or two you can use.
http://www.earlyaviator.com/archive1.htm
http://www.earlyaviator.com/archive1.htm
Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 12:21 AM UTC
Thanks Stephen, That almost confirms it. With what else I have managed to find out I reckon I can make a reasonable stab at the rigging
Mal
Mal
Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 12:33 AM UTC
Mal
Try this site For a full set of drawings of the F2B
http://www.airwar.ru/other/drawe.html
as far as I can see all the rigging wires are on it.
Dennis
Try this site For a full set of drawings of the F2B
http://www.airwar.ru/other/drawe.html
as far as I can see all the rigging wires are on it.
Dennis
Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 01:07 AM UTC
Perfect Dennis, thanks. Cool site
Mal
Mal
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2006 - 05:12 AM UTC
Here is a bit of fun on the Bristol Fighter...nice website as well.
http://forum.keypublishing.co.uk/showthread.php?t=58041
http://forum.keypublishing.co.uk/showthread.php?t=58041
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 07:05 AM UTC
Here is another bit of fun with Guy Black's Bristol F2.b
Repainted
Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 02:44 AM UTC
Hi Mal
Lets start from here
Yes, it´s over the top,i now. It was an Roden, and has been sleeping for a year..
Lars
Lets start from here
Yes, it´s over the top,i now. It was an Roden, and has been sleeping for a year..
Lars
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 07:47 AM UTC
Lars is at it again...most impressive!
Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 01:58 PM UTC
Good grief Stephen, what a wonderful replica and Lars I'm speechless
Mal
Mal
mpalao
Madrid, Spain / España
Joined: June 19, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 11:22 PM UTC
Regards all,
I have in my workshop 3 Eduard's models (WWI aircrafts). There are the Sopwith F1 Camel, Nieuport 11 and Bristol F2b. In the futur, I hope to build them. In this moment, I am busy with the 109E aircraft , spanish civil war version. But.....As I don´t have any experience with the biplanes, I need your experience about the Rigging.
My question is the following:
In the kit instruction I can see the rigging diagram, that is OK. But.....I need your explanation about the method to build this wires. I have fishing wire but...it is necessary to drill several holes to the upper and lower wings in order to insert the wire into these holes????
These holes have to make in both sides (lower and upper) for each wing, in order to apply in the wire more tension.
I am very confused with this technique. Please I need your experience.
Thanks, Take a nice day , from Spain
miguel
I have in my workshop 3 Eduard's models (WWI aircrafts). There are the Sopwith F1 Camel, Nieuport 11 and Bristol F2b. In the futur, I hope to build them. In this moment, I am busy with the 109E aircraft , spanish civil war version. But.....As I don´t have any experience with the biplanes, I need your experience about the Rigging.
My question is the following:
In the kit instruction I can see the rigging diagram, that is OK. But.....I need your explanation about the method to build this wires. I have fishing wire but...it is necessary to drill several holes to the upper and lower wings in order to insert the wire into these holes????
These holes have to make in both sides (lower and upper) for each wing, in order to apply in the wire more tension.
I am very confused with this technique. Please I need your experience.
Thanks, Take a nice day , from Spain
miguel
Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 12:22 AM UTC
Hi miguel,
I have a good idea how to do this, but I have yet to try it myself. I will let Stephen (jackflash), or any of the other dedicated WW 1 modellers describe how to do it first. If they miss this, I'll give you my thoughts
Mal
I have a good idea how to do this, but I have yet to try it myself. I will let Stephen (jackflash), or any of the other dedicated WW 1 modellers describe how to do it first. If they miss this, I'll give you my thoughts
Mal
mpalao
Madrid, Spain / España
Joined: June 19, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 02:22 AM UTC
Hi, Mal. Thank you for your answer. Ok, We hope the Jack's comments about the process to joint the rigging wires to the wings. Jack, please help us.
Thanks Mal, bye
Thanks Mal, bye
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 04:55 AM UTC
Greetings all;
To be brief I drill through the wings at the needed angle before joining them to the model. The when joined I do each strand as needed. I did a large write up step by step on my website and is currently the biggest selling item as a download.
http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=93
It may seem a bit tedious but it makes all the difference when finished. I am building three Sopwith Camels at this time one F.1 and two 2F.1 types. The SE 5a and Sopwith single seat types always have more rigging than other WWI aircraft it seems. The more you do the better you get at it and on the average it takes two to three session for me to finish rigging a kit. (I try to go slow and be deliberate.) I anchor all needed strands and then invert the model and use wooden spring action clothes pins clipped to the loose ends and when inverted they hang free then I just add drops of glue to the hole and let dry. Then clip the loose end.
To be brief I drill through the wings at the needed angle before joining them to the model. The when joined I do each strand as needed. I did a large write up step by step on my website and is currently the biggest selling item as a download.
http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=93
It may seem a bit tedious but it makes all the difference when finished. I am building three Sopwith Camels at this time one F.1 and two 2F.1 types. The SE 5a and Sopwith single seat types always have more rigging than other WWI aircraft it seems. The more you do the better you get at it and on the average it takes two to three session for me to finish rigging a kit. (I try to go slow and be deliberate.) I anchor all needed strands and then invert the model and use wooden spring action clothes pins clipped to the loose ends and when inverted they hang free then I just add drops of glue to the hole and let dry. Then clip the loose end.
mpalao
Madrid, Spain / España
Joined: June 19, 2005
KitMaker: 243 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 09:58 PM UTC
Thank you very much, Stephen. So I have to drill on both wings according to the drawings. Your review is very clear. Thank you very much. There is another review. The link is:
http://www.ecs.gannon.edu/frezza/WWI/Rigging1-72WWIAircraft.htm
It is very interesting also. When I started the Eduard Sopwith Camel I will try it.
Regards Stephen and thanks
http://www.ecs.gannon.edu/frezza/WWI/Rigging1-72WWIAircraft.htm
It is very interesting also. When I started the Eduard Sopwith Camel I will try it.
Regards Stephen and thanks
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Posted: Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 03:09 PM UTC
Here is a further bit of fun on rigging in general.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Friday, June 30, 2006 - 04:53 PM UTC
Hey Lars;
I just found what I was looking for concerning your question. I will post it here.
Greetings folks Lars contacted me off line and asked about the "Dazzle Scheme" applied to F4380. This is a post war scheme and this machine was with #11 Group in Ireland in July1919. It was later that the dazzle scheme was applied at 106 Sqdn. The upper surface of the top wing is all white and incomplete as the coverage appears very thin. The uppersurface of the lower wings, fuselage and interplane struts are apparently black and white. Strut pairs are alternately halved lower wing and fuselage are predominantlywhite with black splinters. In this scheme it may have been flown by a Flt. Lt. Waller.
Another dazzle scheme from 106 Sqdn at this time was H1441. Apparently in PC10 and white mostly the top wing was a sunburst. The lower wing was barberpoled at the leading 2/3 of the wings leading chord. The 1/3 trailing area with the ailerons is untouched. The fuselage is half sunburst and half banded. There are three colours here.
See The Bristol Fighter by J.M. Bruce, Arms and Armour Press Vintage warbirds 1985, Pp.42-43. Images 91 & 92.
I just found what I was looking for concerning your question. I will post it here.
Greetings folks Lars contacted me off line and asked about the "Dazzle Scheme" applied to F4380. This is a post war scheme and this machine was with #11 Group in Ireland in July1919. It was later that the dazzle scheme was applied at 106 Sqdn. The upper surface of the top wing is all white and incomplete as the coverage appears very thin. The uppersurface of the lower wings, fuselage and interplane struts are apparently black and white. Strut pairs are alternately halved lower wing and fuselage are predominantlywhite with black splinters. In this scheme it may have been flown by a Flt. Lt. Waller.
Another dazzle scheme from 106 Sqdn at this time was H1441. Apparently in PC10 and white mostly the top wing was a sunburst. The lower wing was barberpoled at the leading 2/3 of the wings leading chord. The 1/3 trailing area with the ailerons is untouched. The fuselage is half sunburst and half banded. There are three colours here.
See The Bristol Fighter by J.M. Bruce, Arms and Armour Press Vintage warbirds 1985, Pp.42-43. Images 91 & 92.
Repainted
Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: April 04, 2006
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Posted: Friday, June 30, 2006 - 10:51 PM UTC
Hi
Thanks Stephen
The roden brisfit will have ..
kindly
Lars
Thanks Stephen
The roden brisfit will have ..
kindly
Lars