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General Aircraft: Tips & Techniques
Discussions on specific A/C building techniques.
masking question
pod123
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: March 21, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 12:53 AM UTC
i,ve painted a part with humbrol enamel sealed with future/klear and dryed for 24hours can i apply masking tape directly to this without the chance of pul;ling off the paint thanks???
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:14 AM UTC
From my experience, yes. I have never pulled up future coats with masking tape. Just remember to let it dry properly. (24 hours is a good rule of thumb)
lampie
#029
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:16 AM UTC
You shouldnt have any problem there.Especially as youve coated the part with Klear as well.
I use normal masking tape at the moment.
Before sticking it on the model I stick it on the palm of my hand 3 times and this takes off the bulk of the glue.It still leaves enough to adhere to the model but wont leave any glue residue behind when you take it off.
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:26 AM UTC
I switched to tamiya's masking tape after some years of struggling with scotch's magic tape. Great stuff. Adhesive's of just the right strength and doesn't leave residues. I've had some of that tape on canopies for two weeks and they came off without any problems.
pod123
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:31 AM UTC
thanks guys off to do some masking now hope someone can solve my colour problem that quick thanks again
TedMamere
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Moselle, France
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:31 AM UTC
Hi pod123!

With Tamiya masking tape, you shouldn't have any problem... unless you coated your model with an aluminium paint first (Testor's Metalizer for example). Not long ago I wanted to make paint shipping on one of my models and applied Metalizer first, then one coat of paint and two coats of klear. I masked with Tamiya tape and... the paint did peel off!
I would suggest you to make a test on your model, just in case...

Jean-Luc
lampie
#029
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:35 AM UTC
That sounds as though the metalliser paint hadnt adhered to the plastic very well.
However,Ive never used that kind of paint so its only a guess.
csch
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 01:39 AM UTC
With Tamiya masking tape I donīt have any problem. With other brands you have to be carefull.
warlock0322
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 03:38 PM UTC
Only other thing I can think of is after you mask the part.. Paint some future around the edges of the mask. This will prevent any bleed under that may occur. The mask will come off without a problem.

It seems no matter what tape I use(and I use Tamiya's too) or how hard I burnish it down. That blasted stuff finds its way under the mask.

Paul
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, December 29, 2005 - 05:04 PM UTC
I agree with everything said so far, although I never have problems with bleed under, even on compound curves and tight bends, I would also be a little wary of painting future over the edge of the tape. To remove the tape you would, possibly have to cut through the future to release the tape, this would leave a ridge?

There is no problem masking over Future/Klear, but if your underlying paint coats aren't adhering properly (for example, if you haven't cleaned the plastic first), then the tape could pull on the Future/Klear, just enough, to pull up the paint, it's like "what is the weakest link"?

A tip for masking, which gives you a nice clean straight edge and helps prevent "bleed under".

Always cut the, masking, edge of the tape.

Tape on a roll will collect dust, fluff and hairs. They might be minute, on the single strip of tape, but they will prevent you from burnishing the tape down properly. Don't take it for granted that the edge of the tape is square, use a sharp blade and a metal ruler, on a piece of glass and you will garuntee a square edge. In most cases you will be wanting a thinner strip anyway. Don't worry about cutting the edge if it is just for infill.

EDIT: Another tip to help preven "bleed under". Never spray towards the tape edge, vertically to it is fine, but towards it may "force" paint under the tape. If you want a sharp edge the do spray certically, but don't flood on the paint. Paint away from the tape first, then a single pass, vertically should take away any slight underspray. Again if hand brushing, paint away from the tape.
HTH
Mal
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