OK, I painted on part of my spitfire's codes. First side went great: (Or atleast I think it did...)


Then I went to do the second side. I was so worried about getting the mask 100% down so that there would be no underspray or soft edges, that I put it on too low. About 2mm which to my examining eye (Now I examine, not before painting...stupid me ) is too much.

So anyway, I am looking for opinions and please be honest. I would much rather do a little extra work now and try to fix it (repaint some of the camflage, add a little future coat to hope for the small color adjustment that happens and then remask and try again) than not and have it be bad. Or, (and boy wouldn't this be nice) am I just being too critical and is it fine? Again, please give your honest take on it. Thanks,
Leon

Oh almost forgot, the right right side which is too low...


Thanks again.
Leon

(Also, another question...Notice in the pictures the slightly grainy look to the finish - am I the only one who gets this when spraying on future? Originally I tried spraying it straight and never had luck (orange peel), then I tried brushing and always seemed to end up with tiny little bristles, and finally I (and on this one) thin it with tamiya thinner. I'm about to give up on it. Any thoughts? or suggestions on another gloss coat that will be easier for a person who seems to have trouble getting a really nice finish.)

Can't help with the markings, but your getting the graininess due to the future drying on the way to the surface. Spraying it is just like any other paint, a matter of pressure, thick/thinness, and distance. I know most spray it un-thinned. If you are getting orange peel or runs it's because you are either spraying too close or putting too much on, or using too high of a pressure, or a combination of the three.
If you are getting graininess it because you are allowing the paint/future to dry mid air, too far away, or too high a pressure.
Since windex will remove future, maybe try using that to thin instead of the alcohol based Tamyia thinner. I have never thinned it to spray it, but find I do need a higher pressure to get it to spray, than I do with normal paint.

Before I ever spray on a model, I spray on cardboard/foamboard scraps to see how everything is going to work out and practice the distance, pressure, mixture set up, before commiting myself to the model. Especially if it's been a while since I airbrushed, just to get the feel again.

And don't feel too bad ---- after years of using airbrushes-- I still screw a few up also....

I have to say the right side does look a bit odd. If you have the time and skill it would be better to try fix it. I admire the fact you have airbrushed the letters in the first place though. They do look better than decals and it is something I wish I had the skill and patience to do.

Hi Leon,

I would repaint the too-low codes. But I am told I spend way too much time attempting perfection.

Future is easy to remove. Ammonia removes it on contact. It did not affect my Polly Scale acrylic when I had to strip the Future from a model: Future Removal

Future has been a blessing and a curse to me. I used to get orange peel a lot. I use it thinned and straight. Nowadays I shoot straight at about 15 psi and mist on several light coats.

Sometimes it may look grainy. When it does, I just hold my finger next to it--if it glossily reflects my finger, then decals will adhere as desired.

Like Grumpy said, don't feel bad. After 30 yeras airbrushing, I've messed up, to one degree or another, almost every model I build.

FWIW, Polly Scale makes gloss, semi-gloss (never used it) and flat, and they work great, too. Every now and then, depending on my particular situation, I will still gloss with enamel Floquil Crystal Cote.

I love that stuff for glass on gauges. A small drop on a toothpick usually fills them in perfectly, and dries super quick.

Hi Leon, the painted on codes look great, this is the way I plan on going, plus nice job on the pre-shading I have part 2 of my article ready to publish, it takes an interesting twist
I'm afraid that the starboard codes are a bit low and if you don't rectify it you will regret it. Are the codes painted on a layer of Future? If so you should be able to remove them (but if the codes are painted in acrylic that might be a problem as what would remove the codes would likely remove the Future. Another reason I use enamels) the other alternative is to paint over the codes and re-paint

Try thinning Future with water, I never spray the stuff it's far easier to brush it on

I hope you manage to get this Spitfire in the Spitfire 70 MOM
Mal

Thanks guys. I appreciate the opinions / advice. I will attempt to fix. Maybe I'll try to remove the paint, but it is done with tamiya acrylic and mal is probably right what would remove that would possibly remove the future and underlying paint, or maybe I'll just repaint the camo (Probably what I should do). Anyway, thanks again for the opinions and future tips...

Oh, I guess to be really safe I should ask while I am at it. Is the left side possitioned ok or is it too low too...

Leon

Have you thought of chalking it up to "the ground crew messed it up when painting the aircraft?"

My opinion, just repaint.

Jeff

Now you ask I do think they are a little low on the port side as well, sorry mate I can't find the kit instructions or the Aeromaster instructions, but I have done a Spitfire In the same codes and they are just under the canopy rail. Off course I could have it wrong, but I do remember using the canopy rail as a guid to positioning

In my opionion they might be ok, but, if you leave them like that, everytime you look at the plane, you will remember the question you posed. So bit the dust and repaint for your own sake of peace of mind.

Well just an update. I repainted camo over the codes. Then I saw there was depth to the paint, so I tried to fix it. Well after some curse words, thinner, sanding, etc. I was able to clean up the area and paint the camo again.

Then tonight I remasked and painted the codes. Definitely better, but not perfect. Upon close inspection, it looks like the right side J crept up a little before I fully pressed it down. This time, though, I am saying good enough!

Another little problem I have is that the dark green (darker color) is put on a little thick, so it actually creates a ridge, which is noticeable on the grey codes at certain angles if you are really looking closely. I am beginning to wonder if I am just not supposed to have a really well done spitfire.

Anyway, Here are the pictures. In a minute (if I can find them) I'll post a couple of pictures of the last spitfire I tried - that one I really liked until disaster struck!

The pics:




Hope all is well.
Leon

Found it. Here was my first spitfire. It was very early along in my return to modeling (maybe 3rd or 4th). It is not perfect, but by far the best up to that point and I was really proud of it.



So I put on decals. Everything went great. Put on a second coat of future. Did a 'sludge wash' with tamiya acrylics, dishwasher soap, and water. Went to 'wipe' off the extra and it wouldn't come off! So I rubbed a little harder, went through some of the decals. Now, I got desperate and tried using the toothbrush with a little dishsoap (I thought if the slude wash has dish soap, and the keep telling you to wash your plastic with a little dish soap to remove mold agents, it can't be a bad idea) Well for some reason, it frosted over and here was the result.



At this point I just hung my head and new I had been defeated...

What a fun memory... :-)
Leon

Hi Leon!

Your "new" codes are looking indeed better! "Chapeau" for doing the job a second time!
Your "white wash" Spitfire was probably given by the British to the Soviets! :-) I'm sure I have seen a plane like that wit red stars...

Jean-Luc

Leon, I feel your pain with this one, are you going to strip it and re-do it? You have come a long way in a relatively short time, from this, which started out very well, but decided to bite you on the bum, to painting your own markings and with excellant pre-shading. You are to be congratulated on your application and determination
Mal

Thanks guys.

Mal, With the mk. i. I am plodding forward, I think despite it's small problems, it'll probably turn out ok, and I'll be more or less pleased with it. I am glad I tried painting on the codes; I think I learned some skills through it, just wish I was a little more perfect at the attempt (practice makes better, huh?). As for the mk. v., I probably should have stripped it, but it is long gone. Feel safe knowing that somewhere there is a spitfire doing battle in a landfill
Leon

Hi Leon

I must admit I've never seen a disaster like your sludge wash example... from your description, you did nothing wrong (assuming you allowed adequate curing time at each stage). All your weathering stages are quite benign, so I'm at a loss as to what frosted over so badly...

A lot of modelling is trial and error - the pain is when you can't identify the error.

All the best

Rowan