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Rotary Wing
Discuss helicopters and other rotary wing aircraft from any era.
UH-1H Dust-Off dio done....
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 06:08 AM UTC
Thanks, glad you all lik eit. I like teh "Coughing on th erotorwash" referance. Been there, done that. Sorry, no further tutorial on this one. Maybe on thenext one. I'll answer any further questions you have though.

Mark, postage might be a killer to Aus, but let me know what you want. :-)
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 06:26 AM UTC
You make that Panda kit look unreal! CAN you tell me why you went with the panda kit? Is it because it is the only 1/35 scale or Clients wish?
HeavyArty
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 06:30 AM UTC
It was a little of both. The customer already had the Panda kit, and it is 1/35. Mostly because he had the kit though, and wanted to use the CC update set on it. The Panda kit isn't horrible, just not totally accurate nor well detailed.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 06:38 AM UTC
You make it look pretty darn good!
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 08:48 AM UTC
On yor figures (Helo crew), the mouth peice for the helmets, how did you make them, also inside the choper I think it's a com cable, how did you make that?

I was reading a small book on the Green Berets, U.S. Special Forces, in it there is a chapter on the Son Tay raid in 1970, they had a table model, diorama done,( it looks about 1/35 scale) it cost $60,000 U.S( in 1970) Keep that in mind if the Government's paying the bill!
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 08:58 AM UTC
Thanks for the tip on pricing, but it is a private buyer. Don't think I could have cahrged him that much. It was considerably less. :-)

For the boom mikes, I take a small piece of thin (mine is 32 gauge) florist's wire and double it over. Then I twist it in half to make a flattened "8" with one end open. The open end attaches to the lug on the side of the helmet with some superglue. The closed end gets a small piece of sheet styrene cut in a rectangle for the mike on the end, painted black. Bend it toward the pilot's mouth and that is it.

The com cable is made from the same florist's wire. I take it and wrap it around a pin to make the coil. Gently pull it off the pin and stretch the coils out some to lengthen it, paint black.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, April 09, 2006 - 09:11 AM UTC
They look better than the bought ones! thanks for the tip?
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Monday, April 10, 2006 - 07:46 AM UTC
Gino, do you have any pic's of the internal layout for UH-1D/H, as a troop carrier?
Can they came with a bench seat behind the pilots seat's? I can't see how 12 troops sat in there?
How did you build the streacher rack and the seat bealt's?
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 10, 2006 - 10:15 AM UTC
Normal troop carrying, Slick, layout is a rear facing seat behind the pilots, the forward facing seat on the forward transmission wall, and the gunners seats on the side transmission walls.

These may help: UH-1H pics.

Scan of the seating from the Revell UH-1H slick model directions to demonstrate it better.



For the seatbelts, I cut thin strips of lead foil, with small pieces of wire and styrene rod for the buckles. The litters are made out of styrene rods for the handles and side poles, lead foil for the fabric, and sheet styrene for the folding braces and the legs. The rack they are hanging on is just hooks added to the vertical support bars, and lead foil strips with hooks for the forward hangers.


Good luck.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Monday, April 10, 2006 - 12:33 PM UTC
Gino,
Thank you very much for all the information, it's all the little detail's that can make a diorama or model, you have that down pat.
What's sheet styrene and styrene rod? Should i be able to buy it at a good hobby shop?
Did you have to ad any filler at the rear of side and forward transmission wall on the revell kit?
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 10, 2006 - 06:19 PM UTC
No need for any filler or anything added to the cabin walls. The seats just sit up against them.

Sheet and rod styrene should be at any good hobby shop. They are sheets and rods of plastic used for scratch-building, railroading, and architectural modeling. Look for Plastruct or Evergreen for brand names. They make all sorts of shapes and designs.

Here are their web pages:
Plastruct Evergreen
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 02:14 PM UTC
Gino,
Is that Revell 1/32 UH-1H "SLICK" kit out of production? What is the product no#?
I found a shop in sydney with the sheet and rod styrene, what size rod is correct scale? Is the sheet and rod styrene expensive in the states?
I found at home an extra M60D i just have to try and scratch the mount!
Erik67
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Buskerud, Norway
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 05:13 PM UTC
Quote from Ginos first post:


Quoted Text

The helo is the Panda 1/35th kit with corrections made to make it a pretty accurate H model. The interior was upgraded using the Cobra Company UH-1 Upgrade set. Figures are modified Dragon Vietnam Helo crew.



Erik
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 07:59 PM UTC
Erik, Thanks for answering, but he is talking about our above posts regarding the Revell model.

Mark,
The Revell 1/32 UH-1H models go in and out of production. They have been released in a few different versions over the years. It came in a Vietnam combo kit with an OH-6A, as a German HEER, a white UN bird (most recent reissue), and a few others. They can be found on eBay quite often.


One on eBay now.

For the seat legs and supports, 0.020 rod is probably good. For the Vertical support from the floor to the ceiling, 0.030 or slightly larger. Sheet and rod styrene are pretty cheap here in the States. I have heard it can be costly down under.

Good luck.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 10:47 AM UTC
Happy Easter!
It's nice that some one understands!
The OH-6A combo would have been nice! In the instructions, Revell states that parts for conversion are available, as long as they are not more than a year out of production, i couldn't see any 1/32 scale hueys on the revell sight.
In your huey those panels behind the pilots, with the first aid boxes on them, should they be in all huey models?
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 07:42 PM UTC
Yes, the pillers are boxed out as a structural element on all Hueys. The ones on mine are from Cobra Company's 1/35 UH-1 detail set. Don't know of any in 1/32. They are not too hard to build with sheet styrene though. That is what I did on my Revell Hueys. I would drop Revell an email about the seat parts. Worst they can do is tell you they don't have the parts. No idea when the last release of their UN Huey was. Good luck.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Monday, April 17, 2006 - 10:12 AM UTC
I think i might start the Academy 1/35 UH-1C(Frog), while i await Revell reply! I have built the other Academy 1C, in the instructions for the Frog they have several unused parts,D6-D21, are they parts to make a bench seat(D13,D18).
Whats the differance between a UH-1C & UH-1E? as the body's look the same?
hellbent11
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Kansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 17, 2006 - 10:31 AM UTC
Gino, LIke everyone else says amazing job! That was brilliant to put the helo so close to the tree from not only a modelling standpoint to make the dio work but also a historical one as well. My dad was a door gunner in a Huey in Vietnam and he has told me stories of how when they were covering them that the dust-offs would litteraly "Land on the tree tops to get guys out" due to the thickness of the jungle. Your dio really puts that into perspective! Once again, Great job!
mother
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Posted: Monday, April 17, 2006 - 12:29 PM UTC
The UH-1E's were essentially a UH-1B and were modified to meet USMC requirements. The E' was a Marine helicopter and replaced the OH-43D helicopters. The E' also differs in special equipment, avionics and is easily recognized by it's personnel hoist which is placed on top of the main cabin roof.

Also the E's had the HF antennas strung along the both sides of the tail boom.

They were armed with 7.62mm M60C's and 7 tube or 19 tube 2.75 rocket launchers.



Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Monday, April 17, 2006 - 02:45 PM UTC
Man you guy's are good! Thank's for the info, M60C how do they differ from M60 or M60D?
" Dust -Off", named from the radio call sign of Major Charles Kelly, a famed pilot killed in action 1964!
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 17, 2006 - 07:11 PM UTC
Thanks hellbent11. I was hoping to achieve the look of how brave those Dust Off pilots were. Guess it worked.



Quoted Text

...M60C how do they differ from M60 or M60D?



M60C is the dual M60 MGs on a flex mount, it comprises the M6 weapons mount, as Revell tried to depict in their UH-1H gunship. M60D is the door-mount version with dual rear hand grips. M60 is the standard infantry MG. They differ only in their mounting and grip configurations.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Monday, August 21, 2006 - 08:06 AM UTC
Gino, (or any one else who has the answer!)
Can you tell me where the com's cables( in a C model huey) is attached to the pilot, co-pilot and the door gunner and where the other end pugs into the chopper!
Thanks for the help!
rommel93
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Monday, August 21, 2006 - 09:50 AM UTC
AWESOME!!!!! I really like it Gino it looks really good always liked the Huey and this really potrays the scenes the crewswould have seen well. To bad youre giving away to a customer its really good.

Sebastian
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 - 06:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gino, (or any one else who has the answer!)
Can you tell me where the com's cables( in a C model huey) is attached to the pilot, co-pilot and the door gunner and where the other end pugs into the chopper!
Thanks for the help!



The cable attaches to the left side of the helmet and comes around to teh rear of the helmet. From the rear center, it goes up to the square cut-outs in the ceiling and disappears into the roof. If you look closely at the pics of my pilots, you can see them.
Zacman
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New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 03:10 PM UTC
Thanks for the help Gino.
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