hi guy,s
when in doubt always go to an expert.
i don't build aircraft very much,but my big problem is ,even after masking i have bleed marks on the clear areas.
my question is,how do i clean these off without damaging the clear area?
also i have tamiya rubbing compound but there are no english directions on how to use it.
help
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
cockpit advice
parrot
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 01:11 AM UTC
Posted: Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 01:59 AM UTC
Hi Parrot,
First, masking without seepage is difficult. I suggest masking and then spraying a barrier of Future. Many modelers dip the entire canopy into Future and let it dry, so Future is great for sealing the mask.
Next, I suggest only painting canopies with acrylics. My Polly Scale and Tamiya can be removed from the clear area with a sharpened piece of balsa wood or bass wood. These are soft enough not to hurt the canopy unless you are just brutal. Just chisel the errant paint with the wood.
If you do paint with enamels, and the Future didn't create a seep-proof seal, first try to remove the Future--it may carry the enamel with it. Future dissolves instantly with ammonia, and I have not had ammonia hurt any of my clear pieces. Should the enamel hold fast, then try to remove it with thinner and a fine brush, or thinner and the wooden chisel method.
If that does not work, take a piece of the clear sprue, sharpen it, and chisel with it. I read once that clear sprue upon clear pieces will not mar the piece as easily as regular styrene. I've done this with some success.
First, masking without seepage is difficult. I suggest masking and then spraying a barrier of Future. Many modelers dip the entire canopy into Future and let it dry, so Future is great for sealing the mask.
Next, I suggest only painting canopies with acrylics. My Polly Scale and Tamiya can be removed from the clear area with a sharpened piece of balsa wood or bass wood. These are soft enough not to hurt the canopy unless you are just brutal. Just chisel the errant paint with the wood.
If you do paint with enamels, and the Future didn't create a seep-proof seal, first try to remove the Future--it may carry the enamel with it. Future dissolves instantly with ammonia, and I have not had ammonia hurt any of my clear pieces. Should the enamel hold fast, then try to remove it with thinner and a fine brush, or thinner and the wooden chisel method.
If that does not work, take a piece of the clear sprue, sharpen it, and chisel with it. I read once that clear sprue upon clear pieces will not mar the piece as easily as regular styrene. I've done this with some success.
Wad_ware
Illinois, United States
Joined: September 09, 2002
KitMaker: 537 posts
AeroScale: 437 posts
Joined: September 09, 2002
KitMaker: 537 posts
AeroScale: 437 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 07:38 AM UTC
Hi Parrot,
I have always had good luck using a tooth pick with the good sharp pointed ends. With that good point you can get right up to the edges and have some good control.
Wad_ware
Wayne
I have always had good luck using a tooth pick with the good sharp pointed ends. With that good point you can get right up to the edges and have some good control.
Wad_ware
Wayne