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General Aircraft: Tips & Techniques
Discussions on specific A/C building techniques.
Photoetch the "Darkside of aircraft modelling
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 02:30 PM UTC
Greetings all; Recently I have had some queries concerning modern Photoetch and its general applications. Generally thought by "fraidy cats" the world over as "The Dark side of the Force" in Modeling. These are very general thoughts but work for me in almost every instance.

It is usually very easy to handle if you follow a couple of guidelines. With pre-painted parts you will want to separate them first or be prepared to repaint them.

1. Use candle or lighter heat to pass the PE metal fret over until you see the temper of the metal change colours. Nickel silver (which is neither nickel or silver) photoetch may take a bit longer to heat compared to plain brass. Just keep a close eye on the colour. Some blueing ok. You want it bendable but avoid making the parts brittle. 15-20 seconds under a heat source is ok but 2 minutes is too much. Also the smaller the part the quicker it will loose temper.

2. Bend as much as you can reasonably do. and paint each part while still on the tree.

3. The clear bag that the PE metal comes in...Is a great tool. While the parts are still on the tree put the fret back in the bag. It is the best time to cut them loose. (Parts will stay in the bag and not fly off into the modeler's black hole. ) Cut the bottom corner out of the bag to allow only the parts you cut from the tree to exit the bag.

4. Use tweezers and an opitvisor. Finish forming the part for exact fit by tacking it in place at one end and with the tip of a finger (away from the glue) form the piece to the surface and then finish any glueing needed. Viola!
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Posted: Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 03:11 PM UTC
SSSSShhhh! Don't tellanyone but I posted a bit of something over in another forum that has a bit of photoetch to it.

http://armorama.com/forums/75422&page=1
BadBoyFLSTC
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California, United States
Joined: November 20, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 11:47 PM UTC
LOL, oh my god! He builds Hot Rods too! Great work Stephen.

Nils
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 28, 2006 - 02:52 AM UTC
Yeah but it had to have a set of Spandaus, a pickel-haub and a Mercedes inline six.
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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United Kingdom
Joined: June 11, 2003
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Posted: Friday, April 28, 2006 - 03:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

1. Use candle or lighter heat to pass the PE metal fret over until you see the temper of the metal change colours. Nickel silver (which is neither nickel or silver) photoetch may take a bit longer to heat compared to plain brass. Just keep a close eye on the colour. Some blueing ok. You want it bendable but avoid making the parts brittle. 15-20 seconds under a heat source is ok but 2 minutes is too much. Also the smaller the part the quicker it will loose temper.



Hi Stephen

Good advice! Better too little than too much - it's very easy to totally trash fine brass parts by holding them over a candle flame too long.

All the best

Rowan
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