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General Aircraft: Tips & Techniques
Discussions on specific A/C building techniques.
Mustang p-51: Natural metal finish vs green.
MSHaahr
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Fyn, Denmark
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 61 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:02 AM UTC
Hey to everybody at the Tips & techniques forum and thanks to all of them who helped me regarding my last question, hope you are up for another one…

Here goes…

As I was advised I have decided to make my first aircraft model a Tamiya P-51D.
But as most people, I prefer silver aircrafts over the green ones, so how do I make this Natural metal finish effect or is it to much for a sorry boot camp rookie like me?

Does anybody out there have experience with Eagle Strike Productions decals and are they any good?

Well… Thank, hope to hear from you guys…

Steffen.

CRS
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California, United States
Joined: July 08, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:12 AM UTC
As you are a "first timer" I would recommend you use Model Master Aluminum Plate (Buffing Metalizer) #1451, this due to it's ease of use. You can of course use Alclad II if MM products are not available to you, but follow all thier recommendations for application.
alpha_tango
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Germany
Joined: September 07, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:37 AM UTC
Hello Steffen

NMF has some pitfalls that are not so critical when using "colours".

1. your model must be clean and smooth .. I mean really clean and really smooth!!!! You will see every fingerprint, bad sanding, scratches ....

2. I have not seen any realistic NMF that is hand painted, so you must use an airbrush (I do not know if that is a problem to you)

3. Colour is not soo important (while MM and Alclad are very good products) .... for your first try I would use Revell 99 (the old small metal tins) stir it well and use some thinner. The reason I recommend this is that it is sturdy once it is dry, but you also can polish it ... somewhat. Model Master Metalizer must be sealed (or mixed with the sealer) to avoid fingerprints and Alclad has some tricky handling charakteristics (nothing too serious, but I would not recommend it to a rookie ... besides it is not cheap)

4. for a more realistic appearance pic some panels on your model and paint them darker (alu + black) and some lighter (alu + white)

5. do not be disappointed when your model does not look like an IPMS Nats winner. There are people that try NMF for years and still are no masters at it (like myself ) When it is done clean and without any blemishes be proud of it! Everything else comes with practise.

HTH

cheers

Steffen
newtothegame
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Washington, United States
Joined: October 05, 2003
KitMaker: 588 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:47 AM UTC
Hello Steffen.

I just wanted to second what alpha_tango said. The NMF really shows flaws so take a good amount of time trying to do a great job on the actual construction. Recently I heard one modeler singing the praises of Floquil Old Silver as a nice, easy to use metal, but I haven't tried it myself.

Anyway, the real reason I wanted to respond was the question about Eagle Strike decals - very nice!! and the ones I have used came with really nice info on the planes.

I look forward to hearing and seeing how your build go. The Tamiya P-51D is a really nice one.

Leon
CRS
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California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 01:00 AM UTC
Have to agree with alpha_tango's comment about fingerprints. I wear white cotton gloves when I handle NMF models
VonCuda
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 03:32 AM UTC
Everything these guys have mentioned so far is excellent advice Steffen. The only thing I would add is to use a primer coat before you apply the NMF. The primer has nothing to do with the metal finish itself, but the primer makes any scratches, sanding marks, fingerprints, etc. stand out so that you can catch and fix the mistakes before you apply the NMF.
MSHaahr
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Fyn, Denmark
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 61 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 12:54 PM UTC
Thanks for all the nice advice; it is nice to have some more info to work with.
I might just go for the NMF-look over the standard green…
Plus some of the nice looking Eagle Strike decals.

Steffen
alpha_tango
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Germany
Joined: September 07, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 01:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Everything these guys have mentioned so far is excellent advice Steffen. The only thing I would add is to use a primer coat before you apply the NMF. The primer has nothing to do with the metal finish itself, but the primer makes any scratches, sanding marks, fingerprints, etc. stand out so that you can catch and fix the mistakes before you apply the NMF.



Hi Steffen

In general vonCuda is right. But

I would not use primer (for your first try) It will boost the chance to screw up as you have some more layers of colour and you'd have to make sure the primer has a glossy finish which would require:

a) polish the primer , which may be difficult in some places
or
b) use a glossy primer ... which is very difficult to get it evenly on. Believe me. Just ask some car modellers what they do to get the shiny surface

I have just an idea. When you want to use a primer take Citadel Chaos Black in the spray can. Follow the instructions and when you are done put the model away and let it dry. Citadel has some impressing levelling characteristics. Make sure
1. the colour is wet when hitting the model (not too far distance),
2. start your spray stroke outside the model,
3. end your stroke outside the model,
4. do an even stroke,
5. be not too close to the model

HTH

cheers

Steffen
Vodnik
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Warszawa, Poland
Joined: March 26, 2003
KitMaker: 4,342 posts
AeroScale: 78 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 06:43 PM UTC
One very important question: which parts of real P-51D during WW2 were left unpainted and actual aluminum surface was visible and what parts were primed and then painted silver? I ask because Squadron "P-51D Walkaround" book shows parts of Mustangs on production line and primer paint (was it yellow?) is applied to them. Some "in action" photos also show what looks like weathered silver paint and primer visible underneath.

Silver paint would be easier to replicate on the model than NMF. And if real Mustangs were partially left in NMF and partially painted, difference should be visible on the model. The question is what was painted and what was NMF?

Anyone "in the know" here?

Pawel
MSHaahr
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Fyn, Denmark
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 61 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 06:55 PM UTC
I had a thought… It is so that my father owns a car paint shop… So maybe it could be a short cut making them paint my P-51 in somewhat a NMF – effect.

Just a rookies humble proposal… :-)
lampie
#029
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: December 23, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 08:00 PM UTC
Hi Steffan.
Welcome to the aircraft forum.
As Im sure you have realised by now everyone on here is really friendly and more than willing to answer any questions you may have,no matter how trivial they may seem to you.Everyone learns from everybody elses questions and experience.
I am building my first NMF at the moment,Ive only returned to the hobby quite recently.
The answers you have been given are all good and along the right lines,the only thing I would add to those is that I always use primer before I continue onto the main painting stage.(whether Im using enamels,acrylics,or NMF Alclad.
Heres a link to my first attempt at a NMF which will hopefully answer some more of your questions.As you will see from the thread I also had lots of questions regarding NMF and I hope its of some use to you.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/73602&page=1
Happy modelling and dont forget to post pictures as you go.Any questions that crop up while your building dont hesitate to ask
Nige
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