Which is the best way to tackle the rigging on a WW I fighter? What should I use as a rigging? I try to figure out a good way to do it on my Nieuport 17, Albatros D. V and SE-5's, but it's just getting me confused and gives me a headache.... :-)
Just want everything sorted before I start later on, don't want to make any mistakes you know.... :-)
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Rigging......
Lucky13
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: June 01, 2006
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Joined: June 01, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 05:41 AM UTC
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
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Joined: January 25, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 05:49 AM UTC
You have your choice. I use invisble (smoke coloured) sewing thread, monofilament. 5 - 8 mil. Sewing department / craft stores you can buy a spool for pennies that will last for years.
Repainted
Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: April 04, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 10:23 AM UTC
Hi Jan
Here is something for your headache
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/11/stuff_eng_tech_rigging.htm
Lars
Here is something for your headache
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/11/stuff_eng_tech_rigging.htm
Lars
Lucky13
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: June 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,707 posts
AeroScale: 1,119 posts
Joined: June 01, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 04:33 PM UTC
Cheers lads!
That's just what I was needing, much appreciated indeed!
How do I best figure out where to drill the holes for the rigging?
I have some help with some of the P/E that comes along with the kits, but not everything shows it seems....
Off to buy the correct line then....
That's just what I was needing, much appreciated indeed!
How do I best figure out where to drill the holes for the rigging?
I have some help with some of the P/E that comes along with the kits, but not everything shows it seems....
Off to buy the correct line then....
Repainted
Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: April 04, 2006
KitMaker: 1,058 posts
AeroScale: 1,004 posts
Joined: April 04, 2006
KitMaker: 1,058 posts
AeroScale: 1,004 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 05:13 PM UTC
Hi Jan
Windsock Datafile has exellent riggingplans. I´ll recomend them.
Lars
Windsock Datafile has exellent riggingplans. I´ll recomend them.
Lars
Lucky13
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: June 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,707 posts
AeroScale: 1,119 posts
Joined: June 01, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2006 - 05:47 PM UTC
Cheers O' Enlighted One....!
*runs off to Windsock Datafiles*
*runs off to Windsock Datafiles*
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Posted: Monday, July 10, 2006 - 07:02 AM UTC
Greetings all;
To be brief I drill through the wings at the needed angle before joining them to the model. The when joined I do each strand as needed. I did a large write up step by step on my website and is currently the biggest selling item as a download.
http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=93
It may seem a bit tedious but it makes all the difference when finished. I am building three Sopwith Camels at this time one F.1 and two 2F.1 types. The SE 5a and Sopwith single seat types always have more rigging than other WWI aircraft it seems. The more you do the better you get at it and on the average it takes two to three session for me to finish rigging a kit. (I try to go slow and be deliberate.) I anchor all needed strands and then invert the model and use wooden spring action clothes pins clipped to the loose ends and when inverted they hang free then I just add drops of glue to the hole and let dry. Then clip the loose end.
To be brief I drill through the wings at the needed angle before joining them to the model. The when joined I do each strand as needed. I did a large write up step by step on my website and is currently the biggest selling item as a download.
http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=93
It may seem a bit tedious but it makes all the difference when finished. I am building three Sopwith Camels at this time one F.1 and two 2F.1 types. The SE 5a and Sopwith single seat types always have more rigging than other WWI aircraft it seems. The more you do the better you get at it and on the average it takes two to three session for me to finish rigging a kit. (I try to go slow and be deliberate.) I anchor all needed strands and then invert the model and use wooden spring action clothes pins clipped to the loose ends and when inverted they hang free then I just add drops of glue to the hole and let dry. Then clip the loose end.
sirdrake
Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany
Joined: July 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1 posts
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Joined: July 30, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 08:33 PM UTC
I use 0.005" or 0.009" straight wire (got it from smallparts.com). Just cut the wire to the appropriate length, and glue it in place. It doesn't need holes in the wing, but a little 'groove' to set the wire helps a lot. The 0.009 wire is out of scale on a 1/72, but a bit easier to handle and still looks ok to my eyes - maybe my personal scale effect :-) But the nyhlon-thread-hole-through-wing works fine as well. One rub with fine sandpaper, a coat of paint, and the holes are invisble. Guess the only way to find out is to try...
smithery
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 289 posts
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Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 289 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 06:01 PM UTC
Similar to the invisible thread idea, I use elastic thread. The strecth aspects of the thread eliminates the risk of sagging later on down the road.
You can get it in the sewing shops as well.
Also an excellent tool for antennae on aircraft.
You can get it in the sewing shops as well.
Also an excellent tool for antennae on aircraft.