I am working on the academy sukhoi su 27 flanker in 1/48 scale
thetransparent part of the canopy has a straight line molded into what is supposed to be the glass section. Something which i can't appreciate.
How do I remove this?
Can it be sanded off. If yes, which grain should I use, is 2000 sufficient to remove this without ruining the whole transparent section?
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
remove line in canopy molding
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
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Joined: September 28, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 02:39 AM UTC
stugiiif
Virginia, United States
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Joined: December 13, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 04:11 AM UTC
Yes it can be sanded! However you'll want to progress and polish the line til the canopy is clear again. I use micro mesh 1500-4000 grit system then polish with NOVUS plastic polishes. the whole process can take about 2 hours but its worth it. STUG
Thunderthud
New York, United States
Joined: June 26, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 07:01 AM UTC
I agree 100 % with Stugiiif. Hasegawa's F-16's all have this seem line and ive just sat in front of the boob tube watching Wings,and sanded and then polished. then when your all done a coat of future floor wax works wonders!
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
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Joined: March 04, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 07:46 AM UTC
hi there....i noticed many Hasegawa's kit have the same problem with the canopy..
what i normally did was, i sand the line carefully with 600 grit sandpaper. Sand carefully to minimize the damage to the surroundings (or u may mask the surrounding).. change the grit from 600, work to 800 and 1000 and for final i sand with 1500 or 2000 (which ever i have in hand...) - then i wash it. After that i used Tamiya rubbing compound and polish the sanded area...
U can see the part are now shinier than before. Lastly, i apply a coat of FUTURE..
what i normally did was, i sand the line carefully with 600 grit sandpaper. Sand carefully to minimize the damage to the surroundings (or u may mask the surrounding).. change the grit from 600, work to 800 and 1000 and for final i sand with 1500 or 2000 (which ever i have in hand...) - then i wash it. After that i used Tamiya rubbing compound and polish the sanded area...
U can see the part are now shinier than before. Lastly, i apply a coat of FUTURE..
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 08:05 AM UTC
Be careful to not sand over the canopy framing at the front edges of the pieces though.. I obliterated a section of an F15 canopy with some overzealous sanding.
Also remember to only sand in a back and forth motion, if you scrub it is harder to get the scratches out.
Mike
Also remember to only sand in a back and forth motion, if you scrub it is harder to get the scratches out.
Mike
drabslab
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Posted: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 01:10 PM UTC
thanks for the very useful comments
I'll follow tour advice and give it a try.
I'll follow tour advice and give it a try.
stugiiif
Virginia, United States
Joined: December 13, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 09:23 PM UTC
The unfortunate fact is thye line will be come even more frequent in canopies. As the aircraft industries progress in Aircraft designs change the more complex the glazings become. As models we want the Most accurate shapes as posible, and for the parts that means a more complex mold needed. I just shudder though, it scares me the first time i hit the glass witha sanding pad. but it'll all work with some elbow grease.
Mike, you can carfully rescribe the area if you realy want the line to be present.
STUG
Mike, you can carfully rescribe the area if you realy want the line to be present.
STUG
drabslab
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Posted: Friday, July 21, 2006 - 01:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The unfortunate fact is thye line will be come even more frequent in canopies. As the aircraft industries progress in Aircraft designs change the more complex the glazings become. As models we want the Most accurate shapes as posible, and for the parts that means a more complex mold needed. I just shudder though, it scares me the first time i hit the glass witha sanding pad. but it'll all work with some elbow grease.
Mike, you can carfully rescribe the area if you realy want the line to be present.
STUG
Hmmm,
I am not questioning what you are saying but...
Fact is I have been making a lot of models in the 70ies and 80ies amongst which a 1/24 helicopter and a 1/32 Tomcat to name a few of the largest ones.
Fact is that I have never seen such a line back then. Therefore I wonder whether this negative trend is a result of sudden complexity or of manufacturers looking for an easy (=cheap) solution.
stugiiif
Virginia, United States
Joined: December 13, 2002
KitMaker: 1,434 posts
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Joined: December 13, 2002
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Posted: Friday, July 21, 2006 - 06:02 AM UTC
To be honest it's not cheap manufacturing of the parts, just the canopies that have a side bulge requires a 2part for the top piece. look at the F15,
F18, or the Su-27 all have side bulges to improve visibility of the aircrew. Its just something we need to get used to in the kits. I got a bad one to work out in the kit next to the bench right now...Trumpeter's 1/35th Hind E! Oh well time to finish me F-104 before I start the monster Hind. Happy Modeling guys. STUG
F18, or the Su-27 all have side bulges to improve visibility of the aircrew. Its just something we need to get used to in the kits. I got a bad one to work out in the kit next to the bench right now...Trumpeter's 1/35th Hind E! Oh well time to finish me F-104 before I start the monster Hind. Happy Modeling guys. STUG
drabslab
European Union
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Posted: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 04:02 PM UTC
I did it!!!
Remove the seam in the middle of the canopy, that is.
It was a lot easier than I expected.
The seam was about 0.2 mm high. I decided not to use sandpaper but scratched (very carefully) the seam away with an exacto knife.
I expected that I would needd to sand with a 2000 grain afterwards and then use a rubbing compound.
Out of curiosity I started immediately with the Tamiya rubbing compound.
I took a piece of cloth, added some rubbing compound on it, placed the cloth on a rubber underground and then started rubbing the canopy.
10 minutes later the result was perfect. I washed the canopy with water and soap and that was it.
Remove the seam in the middle of the canopy, that is.
It was a lot easier than I expected.
The seam was about 0.2 mm high. I decided not to use sandpaper but scratched (very carefully) the seam away with an exacto knife.
I expected that I would needd to sand with a 2000 grain afterwards and then use a rubbing compound.
Out of curiosity I started immediately with the Tamiya rubbing compound.
I took a piece of cloth, added some rubbing compound on it, placed the cloth on a rubber underground and then started rubbing the canopy.
10 minutes later the result was perfect. I washed the canopy with water and soap and that was it.
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
AeroScale: 121 posts
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
AeroScale: 121 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 06:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I did it!!!
Remove the seam in the middle of the canopy, that is.
It was a lot easier than I expected.
The seam was about 0.2 mm high. I decided not to use sandpaper but scratched (very carefully) the seam away with an exacto knife.
I expected that I would needd to sand with a 2000 grain afterwards and then use a rubbing compound.
Out of curiosity I started immediately with the Tamiya rubbing compound.
I took a piece of cloth, added some rubbing compound on it, placed the cloth on a rubber underground and then started rubbing the canopy.
10 minutes later the result was perfect. I washed the canopy with water and soap and that was it.
well, i'm happy that your first canopy line removal was successfull..(just like in my case...)