Well, the title says it all, isn't it?
Its an annoying thing, but how do you prevent it???
And when it has already happened, can something be done about it withour ruining the decals?
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decal silvering
drabslab
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 05, 2006 - 11:46 PM UTC
Erik67
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
AeroScale: 58 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 12:18 AM UTC
Silvering appears when air is trapped under the decal. If it happens you can make a cut in the airbubble with a very sharp knife and apply microset solution. It usually takes care of the problem for me.
Erik
Erik
Phantom2
Joined: April 18, 2006
KitMaker: 708 posts
AeroScale: 678 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 01:26 AM UTC
Hi!
About Silvering;
You should have a very glossy and/or smooth surface and use a decal softener as Micro-set, before you place the decal on the model.
Yes, use a sharp blade and cut every bubble, then use Micro-set or -Sol (sparingly!).
Microsol is a stronger solvent so be careful or you can end up with wrinkled decals instead!
Happy Decalling!
About Silvering;
Quoted Text
Its an annoying thing, but how do you prevent it???
You should have a very glossy and/or smooth surface and use a decal softener as Micro-set, before you place the decal on the model.
Quoted Text
And when it has already happened, can something be done about it withour ruining the decals?
Yes, use a sharp blade and cut every bubble, then use Micro-set or -Sol (sparingly!).
Microsol is a stronger solvent so be careful or you can end up with wrinkled decals instead!
Happy Decalling!
Brigandine
Joined: July 12, 2006
KitMaker: 553 posts
AeroScale: 86 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 06:17 AM UTC
Sometimes mixing a small amount of white glue in with the Microset,
during decal application, can help settle decals down.
during decal application, can help settle decals down.
Darson
Joined: June 14, 2005
KitMaker: 247 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 06:25 AM UTC
It's been pretty much covered off by the others, but for me the secret to decal success is:
1. A gloss coat (Future) that is left to full cure to prevent silvering.
2. Use of a combination of Mircosol & Microset to snuggle the decals down.
3. Another gloss coat to protect the decals from the weathering that is about to happen.
I hope this helps.
1. A gloss coat (Future) that is left to full cure to prevent silvering.
2. Use of a combination of Mircosol & Microset to snuggle the decals down.
3. Another gloss coat to protect the decals from the weathering that is about to happen.
I hope this helps.
csch
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
AeroScale: 1,040 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 07:36 AM UTC
I´m with Darren. The better and most efficient way to prevent the silvering is to apply a couple of coats of Future previous the decaling and then Microsol. The coat of Future over the decal is to disimulate the edges and to protect them. This process works for me even with Academy decals !
In my experirnce, when the silvering has appeared I pull out the decals with scoth tape, sand smooth and very carefully without ruinning the paint job, give another couple of coats of Future and apply a new decal.
In my experirnce, when the silvering has appeared I pull out the decals with scoth tape, sand smooth and very carefully without ruinning the paint job, give another couple of coats of Future and apply a new decal.
Augie
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 711 posts
AeroScale: 107 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 07:54 AM UTC
I agree with Darren, too. A nice coat of Future, let dry, apply decals with Micro-Sol and then another coat of Future really makes the decals sit nicely.
drabslab
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 02:35 PM UTC
Thanks for all the replies, this is more thanhelpfull
Long live the Kitmaker.net modelling academy!!!
Long live the Kitmaker.net modelling academy!!!
ws48
Joined: January 30, 2004
KitMaker: 247 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 09:52 PM UTC
I recently decaled an Academy Black Hawk. Without exception every decal silvered to some degree. I did the following:
Two coats of Future
Cured for 48 hours
Applied decals with MicroSet
Three applications of MicroSol
Clear coat of Future.
Guys in the model club suggested the problem was the Academy decals. Not the best. There are not any aftermarket decals for the Black Hawk except for IDF. I am going to order a set the next time I place an order with Great Models.
Two coats of Future
Cured for 48 hours
Applied decals with MicroSet
Three applications of MicroSol
Clear coat of Future.
Guys in the model club suggested the problem was the Academy decals. Not the best. There are not any aftermarket decals for the Black Hawk except for IDF. I am going to order a set the next time I place an order with Great Models.
csch
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
AeroScale: 1,040 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 10:58 PM UTC
Hi Don:
Maybe some more coats of Future were necesary. In some cases when the paint leaves a rough and absorbent surface as with some kinds of enamels (for example Model Master or Humbrol olive drab) various coats of Future are needed. In the last Tamiya P 51B that I built I gave at least 6 coats until the surface was looking like glass, the same with two Academy kits in 1/72 in which I used the kit´s decals. With the Academy decals I trimed them the most that I could, that always helps.
Maybe some more coats of Future were necesary. In some cases when the paint leaves a rough and absorbent surface as with some kinds of enamels (for example Model Master or Humbrol olive drab) various coats of Future are needed. In the last Tamiya P 51B that I built I gave at least 6 coats until the surface was looking like glass, the same with two Academy kits in 1/72 in which I used the kit´s decals. With the Academy decals I trimed them the most that I could, that always helps.
ws48
Joined: January 30, 2004
KitMaker: 247 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 11:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Don:
Maybe some more coats of Future were necesary. In some cases when the paint leaves a rough and absorbent surface as with some kinds of enamels (for example Model Master or Humbrol olive drab) various coats of Future are needed. In the last Tamiya P 51B that I built I gave at least 6 coats until the surface was looking like glass, the same with two Academy kits in 1/72 in which I used the kit´s decals. With the Academy decals I trimed them the most that I could, that always helps.
Carlos,
I think you are right about the extra coats. I painted the Black Hawk with two coats of Model Master Helo Drab. The finish I ended with was a semi-gloss at best. The silvering I got was minute. What I would call micro silvering.
I am close to the decal stage with a Hasegawa Phantom FG MK.1. I will probably shoot more than the two coats. I did not mention in my post that I reduce my Future to avoid orange peel which means I am applying a thinner film. My only concern with multiple coats is filling in panel lines.
Thanks for the tip.
Don
csch
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
AeroScale: 1,040 posts
Posted: Monday, August 07, 2006 - 07:48 AM UTC
Hi Don:
Are you applying the Future with the airbrush ?
I never use the airbrush with Future, I use a soft flat brush No. 8. Maybe that is part of the problem. Give a try with the brush, it works fine and don´t worry about the panel lines, there´s no problem if the coats are thin.
Are you applying the Future with the airbrush ?
I never use the airbrush with Future, I use a soft flat brush No. 8. Maybe that is part of the problem. Give a try with the brush, it works fine and don´t worry about the panel lines, there´s no problem if the coats are thin.
JPTRR
Managing Editor
#051
Joined: December 21, 2002
KitMaker: 7,772 posts
AeroScale: 3,175 posts
Posted: Monday, August 07, 2006 - 10:42 PM UTC
Drabslab,
If the above suggestions do not appeal nor work for you, I have a "Hail Mary" technique that has worked twice for me (photos available if you want to see them before trying yourself.)
Prick the decal in several places. Apply a very small amount of liquid glue! This worked with an Italeri Tiger's decals and a Tamiya F-105. Took out the silvering and what little reaction with the paint disappeared under dull coat.
If the above suggestions do not appeal nor work for you, I have a "Hail Mary" technique that has worked twice for me (photos available if you want to see them before trying yourself.)
Prick the decal in several places. Apply a very small amount of liquid glue! This worked with an Italeri Tiger's decals and a Tamiya F-105. Took out the silvering and what little reaction with the paint disappeared under dull coat.
csch
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
AeroScale: 1,040 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 12:08 AM UTC
Hi Fred:
Interesting technique ! Where and when do you apply the liquid glue ? and liquid glue is the same that white glue or is it the one made with arabic rubber ?
Regards.
Carlos
Interesting technique ! Where and when do you apply the liquid glue ? and liquid glue is the same that white glue or is it the one made with arabic rubber ?
Regards.
Carlos
JPTRR
Managing Editor#051
Joined: December 21, 2002
KitMaker: 7,772 posts
AeroScale: 3,175 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 03:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Fred:
Interesting technique ! Where and when do you apply the liquid glue ? and liquid glue is the same that white glue or is it the one made with arabic rubber ?
Regards.
Carlos
Hi Carlos,
Liquid model glue! I pricked the decal with an X-acto and touched a small brush full of the glue to it. It flowed under the decal where the air was and chemically brought the decal to the surface.
Fred
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