Pre-Flight Check
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Revell Me 262 - all criticism welcomed
This post was removed.
UNAMED
Alabama, United States
Joined: August 08, 2006
KitMaker: 11 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: August 08, 2006
KitMaker: 11 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 - 03:45 AM UTC
Ok, I'm about to start a revell me 262 but I paint with regular brushes and am not very experienced. Please feel free to join in and say anything you like. Before I jump in though, I would like to post some pictures of a
p-40b i last built so I can get some pointers on my techniques before I repeat them on the 262. Thnx
p-40b i last built so I can get some pointers on my techniques before I repeat them on the 262. Thnx
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 - 11:32 AM UTC
Hi Unnamed,
When I was a kid, I built a dozen of these 1/48 P-40Bs. Then it was Monogram's Tigershark, "China Doll". I intended to build them all as AVG, but got seduced by the RAF and USAAF markings, so a couple of each were in my squadron.
That was back when models would be built in an afternoon. Those were fun days. Modeling today is still fun. My enjoyment comes from building the most accurate and authentic model I can with it still being fun. One thing you will read from many of us is this is a hobby. If it quits being fun--and it has temporarily for many of us--return to what it is about it that is relaxing and fun.
Brush painting is not a problem. RAF had rubber masks that they set upon their airplanes to create a hard demarcation between colors. These were more labor intensive than spraying, and it appears most RAF's planes were sprayed (though with a tight feather edge) but brush painting is A-OK. For that matter, if you are careful with stippling, you can simulate a soft edge with brushes. Nothing beats an airbrush, though.
ME-262s, some seem to have been field camouflaged with brushing. Check your source, if you want to build a specific one.
Two things detract from a model. Gaps in the seams and decals that don't settle right.
The seams you can fix to varying degrees without devoting the effort to make them disappear completely via gap-filling products and sanding. Narrow gaps can be closed with letting drops of liquid glue run along them--the glue melts the plastic and it oozes into the gap and fills it. Wider gaps, you need to soften the plastic (liquid glue still best), line up the halves carefully, and then squeeze them together. The plastic melds together and some may (should?) squish out of the seam. That is OK, it is filling the seam. When cured you can take a sharp blade or sanding device and remove the "squishy", and you'll probably have a nicely filled seam. The problem is that you may have to hold the halves together for an hour. That's where clamps come in handy. And depending on your personal level of perfection, you may wish to glue one seam ata atime, i.e., the lower nose from spinner to cowl flaps--let dry; then lower fuselage from wing trailing edge to tailwheel hole--let dry; upper fuselage from cockpit to rudder--let dry, etc. etc.
FWIW, this model has bad gaps between wing and fuselage--always has.
Your decals will not silver (that visible area under the clear film) if you gloss the model first. The decals tend to settle over gloss better, too.
KH O R can stand some improvement, but it is still a nice looking model. Are you happy with it? You can be. Can you improve upon it? Yes, you can. Do you want to--and will doing so still be fun? Those are questions I ask myself about every model. Most every time I can answer YES to each!
This is a great group of modelers. Feel free to ask anything.
When I was a kid, I built a dozen of these 1/48 P-40Bs. Then it was Monogram's Tigershark, "China Doll". I intended to build them all as AVG, but got seduced by the RAF and USAAF markings, so a couple of each were in my squadron.
That was back when models would be built in an afternoon. Those were fun days. Modeling today is still fun. My enjoyment comes from building the most accurate and authentic model I can with it still being fun. One thing you will read from many of us is this is a hobby. If it quits being fun--and it has temporarily for many of us--return to what it is about it that is relaxing and fun.
Brush painting is not a problem. RAF had rubber masks that they set upon their airplanes to create a hard demarcation between colors. These were more labor intensive than spraying, and it appears most RAF's planes were sprayed (though with a tight feather edge) but brush painting is A-OK. For that matter, if you are careful with stippling, you can simulate a soft edge with brushes. Nothing beats an airbrush, though.
ME-262s, some seem to have been field camouflaged with brushing. Check your source, if you want to build a specific one.
Two things detract from a model. Gaps in the seams and decals that don't settle right.
The seams you can fix to varying degrees without devoting the effort to make them disappear completely via gap-filling products and sanding. Narrow gaps can be closed with letting drops of liquid glue run along them--the glue melts the plastic and it oozes into the gap and fills it. Wider gaps, you need to soften the plastic (liquid glue still best), line up the halves carefully, and then squeeze them together. The plastic melds together and some may (should?) squish out of the seam. That is OK, it is filling the seam. When cured you can take a sharp blade or sanding device and remove the "squishy", and you'll probably have a nicely filled seam. The problem is that you may have to hold the halves together for an hour. That's where clamps come in handy. And depending on your personal level of perfection, you may wish to glue one seam ata atime, i.e., the lower nose from spinner to cowl flaps--let dry; then lower fuselage from wing trailing edge to tailwheel hole--let dry; upper fuselage from cockpit to rudder--let dry, etc. etc.
FWIW, this model has bad gaps between wing and fuselage--always has.
Your decals will not silver (that visible area under the clear film) if you gloss the model first. The decals tend to settle over gloss better, too.
KH O R can stand some improvement, but it is still a nice looking model. Are you happy with it? You can be. Can you improve upon it? Yes, you can. Do you want to--and will doing so still be fun? Those are questions I ask myself about every model. Most every time I can answer YES to each!
This is a great group of modelers. Feel free to ask anything.
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 - 12:13 PM UTC
Hi UNAMED!
As for the comments, I'll second what Fred said about your model, modelling in general and this site!
It may seem but how old are you UNAMED? I'm not curious, I just want to know! :-) (by the way, I'm 39...)
Jean-Luc
As for the comments, I'll second what Fred said about your model, modelling in general and this site!
It may seem but how old are you UNAMED? I'm not curious, I just want to know! :-) (by the way, I'm 39...)
Jean-Luc
UNAMED
Alabama, United States
Joined: August 08, 2006
KitMaker: 11 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: August 08, 2006
KitMaker: 11 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 - 07:34 PM UTC
I'm 17 now, but i built the model maybe 2 summers ago, can't remember.
UNAMED
Alabama, United States
Joined: August 08, 2006
KitMaker: 11 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: August 08, 2006
KitMaker: 11 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 - 07:37 PM UTC
O, it appears I will need to get some more paint colors before I start the 262. There is also some important stuff on the horizon so, maybe this project is gonna be put on the back burner for a while.
Posted: Sunday, August 20, 2006 - 09:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
There is also some important stuff on the horizon so, maybe this project is gonna be put on the back burner for a while.
That's common for modelers. If you are bored enough to look at my posts, you will find I have recently finished some I started 10 years ago--I think I started my Arado-196 the year you were born! :-)
redalb2253
South Carolina, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 235 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 235 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Posted: Monday, September 11, 2006 - 01:56 AM UTC
Hey Fred I've just finished a revell 1/28 tripe that was made before you were born and is 5 years younger than me also have the camel and spad.
Posted: Monday, September 11, 2006 - 02:03 AM UTC
your painting looks fine to me but from what I can see you need to use filler on some joints. remember its not what we think of your model its what you think and are you happy with it.
Removed by original poster on 09/12/06 - 07:00:00 (GMT).
Posted: Monday, September 11, 2006 - 05:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Fred I've just finished a revell 1/28 tripe that was made before you were born and is 5 years younger than me also have the camel and spad.
Hi Steve,
Thank you for the compliment--I age well but I fear I am older than the kit! IIRC it was released with the SPAD & Camel in 1969. I still have some Revell catalogues from late 60s or early 70s.
My first "serious" model was the SPAD. For nostalgia I bought it again and have P/E for it, too. Started it but it has been shunted aside for awhile.