Although I cannot continue with this for a while, as I don't have the Interior Green paint needed, there are still things that can be done in preperation. I know quite a few of you have bought this kit and are eager to get building, I also know that some, well at least one, hasn't used resin before. Before we start this I would just like to warn everyone that I am no expert when it comes to resin, I have add 2 resin cockpit sets to models in total. One in my last months MOM entry, the Me 163 and the other in this months entry, the Mosquito. However I can at least give you some pointers and help with painting etc What I'm sying hear is that what I will say is not "gospel" so if you feel that you have a better way of doing it then please do, but let us know Again, although I love the Spitfire, I am in now way an expert. I did, however learn quite a bit about the Spitfire F Mk 22/24 while researching my review of the kit Review If you have this kit (Eduards kit number 1121) feel free to join in, remember though that the idea is to help those that have not used mixed media stuff before. If there are any of you who have the original Airfix boxing then you may also join in as it will be an interesting comparison with the Eduard offering. The Eduard boxing of Airfix's kit is a real beauty so lets get on with it.

Remember when cutting and sanding resin to wear a mask, always
This is where I'm up to at the moment, I have removed casting over pours on parts, RP 9, 10, 11 and 17, started removing the one on RP 16 (the seat) and I have removed the detail from the fuselage halves.



A closer look at the resin parts, you may notice that I have damaged part RP 17, the floor (more about this later. I can report that the resin appears relatively soft and is quite easy to work with.


I used side cutters to remove the "H" shaped over pour on the floor, RP 17. I got a bit carried away and tried to take off too much at a time, Using side cutters should be fine if you take small "nibbles". Although I have cause a hole and cracking I will fill the hole and, after painting and instalation, you will never know, I hope. Be warned and simply take a little care.


The word "Set" in this pic should read "seat". As it says, in the second pic, the filled in area represents the rear fuel tank in the F Mk 24 and it should be removed if you are building the F Mk22. You will see that there is a lip around the outside of this part, RP 11 which, after test fitting, accomodates the rear edges of the 2 cockpit side walls. For the time being I am using this lip as a gauge, to judge the depth of plastic to remove from each fuselage half. If you are building the F.22 you could do the same, then sand off the lip and the "fuel tank" before final fiting. It is not absolutely necessary to use this lip in this way (I guess) but the lip does position the side wall in correct relationship to part RP 11. It might also help in positioning, depending how much thickness of the side walls is removed.


I removed the main part of the overpour, on the side walls by first cutting it in half, then scoring, with an "Olfa P cutter", from the back, then finally cutting through with a scalpel. This will still leave some to remove, in 1 it will simply be a case of repeating the scoring and cuuting from the front. But with 2, because of the protruding electrical box, see next pic, sandind is probably the way to go.


I think the captions say it all here.


Hope that you will join in
Mal

Hi Mal

I don't know... I send you this stuff and you butcher it! :-) "Hole in the floor caused by my careless use of sidecutters" - I thought you'd save that for a '109!

Just kidding! I know this is going to end up as a superb build - and I'll follow it as a reference for when I tackle the Spitfire in its ultimate form.

All the best

Rowan

Hi Mal.
We shall have to club together and get you some interior green
This thread has answered a question already.I had thought I was going to have to cut all the back of the seat support (RP11) away, but obviously thats not the case,for a MK24 anyway.
I shall certainly be joining in on this at some point when I get around to starting my Spit.
Its quite refreshing to see that Im not the only one that manages to butcher parts now and again :-)
For removing the cockpit detail on the Airfix mould,is this easy.I would anticipate that you just sand it away carefully and it will come off quite easily.Is that the case?
Nige

Looking good so far Mal. I haven't started mine yet, but I do have quite a bit of experience in stuffing resin sets into styrene pieces.

When positioning the rear bulkhead/seat support in the fuselage, I think some styrene "back-stops" will come in handy for alignment. These will also allow you to use the seat support to align the sidewall panels.

Just use some blu-tack or white glue to temporarily hold the resin piece in place. Then glue some styrene pieces in behind the resin piece, so that they form a sort of "broken line" along the resin piece. Once the glue is dry, remove the resin piece and the blu-tack without worrying about aligning the resin piece after painting.

Another easy way to align sidewalls is to use white glue to install them, slide them into position while the glue is still wet, let them dry, then simply trace around the resin piece with a fine marker to give you an outline. Once the sidewalls are painted up, they can easily be glued into position without worry, and the marker line will be hidden in the shadows, never to be seen.

Hopefully, this will save you some time when it comes time to install the cockpit pieces.

Thanks Kevin, that all sounds like good advice The Eduard instructions suggest making up the cockpit tub first then fitting the whole thing into place. I will, probably, not do it this way but, as you suggest, test fit, using white glue, and fit the side walls seperately. Test fitting will determine the rout to take.



No you won't Nige, I will send off for some on, possibly, Friday. I need some other colours as well so this has to be done. There is still plenty to do while waiting for the paint, finishing cleaning up (and repairing) the resin, test fitting etc.

EDIT Sorry Nige I forgot to answer this:


I actually attacked it with a cut off wheel in a mini drill. I will be attacking some more with a burr and finishing with a No10 scalpel blade (curved). You can just cut and scrape off the detail and a bit more plastic, but using a burr in a mini drill is far more fun and alot quicker. You just have to be very careful not to go too far (so that doesn't bode too well then does it ) The trick when using a burr is to make rapid (ish) passes and only apply light pressure. The other thing to appreciate is that the fuselage sides will become very week, as the get thinner, so take care.



Sorry mate, entirely my fault, but I was lend into a false sense of security with the ease at which I could work the resin. I just tried to cut too much at once. It is easy reparable and won't be seen so no real harm done, just don't tell Eduard

Something that I didn't mention, probably the hardest part to clean up will be the seat. I have made a start, cutting into the bulk of the pour block, just below the front projection, under the seat. You could, if you wished, simply cut of the over pour at this point, then file a groove in the centre, to accommodate the elevator control rod. This fits through the cut out at the front. I will finish the cut then sand off the remainder, leaving the lip. This will be a very tedious task, but I have a linishing machine which will do it in seconds
Mal

Hi Mal

My only misgivings about the Aires seat are that the flareholders are set too far back...

Your mention of the seat reminded me of a fantastic trip I made this summer on the Isle of Wight... a visit to Airframe Assemblies - one of the world's foremost Spitfire restoration companies.

The guys there were amazing! So friendly and happy to show what they were working on... but I won't torment you with pics of the "new" Spits waiting to take to the air - instead... check out this original moulded seat that they pulled out of store especially for me!







If you're wondering what the bright seat in the background is... that's a Charles Church fibre-glass replica. In a classic case of modern technology being defeated by WW2 "make-does" - the fibre-glass replica has a fraction of the useful life of the original seat! No-one can figure the formula for making the original seat... "stewwed bones and whatever..." - so the latest builds have this... an authentic rebuild of a Spitfire's metal seat (complete with flare holders):



If you're ever on the Isle of Wight - Airframe Assemblies is definitely worth a visit at Sandown Airport - but PLEASE ring them first to arrange a visit... remember, this is a working company. I'll definitely try to pay more visits to keep up to date with the 3 complete re-builds they have underway.

All the best

Rowan

Great photos Rowan.
Airframe Assemblies certainly are one of the leading companies in their field of engineering.
Mal,,this thread is going to be a valuable resource when the time comes to build my Eduard Spit. Im considering buying myself the Airfix Spit to use as a practice build. To be honest,m not sure at the moment if the thought of all that fabulous PE and resin excites or terrifies me
I shall be following this build with great interest and I'll join in when the time comes
Nige

Hi Mal!

Did you already choosed your paintscheme? I just love the one on the cover!

Jean-Luc

You should be even more worried, as there isn't a flare holder on the seat Now that you mention it I will double check to ascertain if the late marks had the holders. The resin seat a flange with a cut out for the elevator control rod to pass through.
Looks like I need a holiday on the Isle of Wight



Nige, be excited I hope that this thread will show that there is nothing to be afraid of



Yes Jean-Luc, I will be doing the 80 Squadron machine, in Hong Kong.

Mal

Hi Mal.
I hope that included in all those paints you bought at Telford was a certain interior green
Nige