Hi there
I'm new, I looked around here for a few hours for some techniques before I bought my first (ever) model, a Revell Me 262 A-1a in 1:72. Good thing I did because I wouldn't have known how to overcome a few problems I had with the build - mainly the ill-fitting engines, but it's looking alright enough after some work with filler and wet and dry.
Thing is, the plastic is fairly scratched up now and I'm worried it'll show through the paint. Is there an effective way to sort out scratches? I've read stuff around here and fibre glass buffing sticks have been mentioned, should I got that route?
The other query I had was about painting - should I paint straight out the tin or use a bit of thinner?
Cheers guys, and your site is great, really inspirational for a model noob.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
First model - a few quick questions
corc
Joined: September 16, 2006
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 05:32 PM UTC
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 06:37 PM UTC
Hi corc
First off, welcome to Aeroscale - it's great to have you with us!
The scratches on the plastic shouldn't be a problem. If you start off with fine grade wet 'n dry paper and progress to extra fine you should soon get rid of them. An alternative is to use purpose-made sanders and polishers like these - they can cope with pretty much anything and I'd recommend them if you're going to get serious about modelling.
How are you intending to apply the paint? If you're using an airbrush or spray-gun, you should definitely thin it to approximately the consistency of milk. If you're brush-painting, it may be less necessary, but the best results are usually achieved with a couple of thin coats rather than one heavy one. (Just make sure you allow plenty of drying time between coats - it should say on the paint-pots how long is needed).
I hope that's some help. All the best
Rowan
First off, welcome to Aeroscale - it's great to have you with us!
The scratches on the plastic shouldn't be a problem. If you start off with fine grade wet 'n dry paper and progress to extra fine you should soon get rid of them. An alternative is to use purpose-made sanders and polishers like these - they can cope with pretty much anything and I'd recommend them if you're going to get serious about modelling.
How are you intending to apply the paint? If you're using an airbrush or spray-gun, you should definitely thin it to approximately the consistency of milk. If you're brush-painting, it may be less necessary, but the best results are usually achieved with a couple of thin coats rather than one heavy one. (Just make sure you allow plenty of drying time between coats - it should say on the paint-pots how long is needed).
I hope that's some help. All the best
Rowan
Brigandine
Dunedin, New Zealand
Joined: July 12, 2006
KitMaker: 553 posts
AeroScale: 86 posts
Joined: July 12, 2006
KitMaker: 553 posts
AeroScale: 86 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 07:28 PM UTC
Hi corc,
Welcome to the hobby and a long stay in these pages.
First priority with painting is...patience. Wash your model in warm, reasonably soapy water to get rid of all the gunk which comes from cementing and sanding - then let the model dry properly in a dust- free environment.
As Rowan says, use thin coats of paint, rather than trying to get things over with in one coat. With an airbrush you need little more than a light misting for your first coat - enough to allow it to 'key' onto the plastic.
You've already given yourself a good start by looking around Aeroscale - if you need any help, you know where to come.
Cheers!
Jeff W.
Welcome to the hobby and a long stay in these pages.
First priority with painting is...patience. Wash your model in warm, reasonably soapy water to get rid of all the gunk which comes from cementing and sanding - then let the model dry properly in a dust- free environment.
As Rowan says, use thin coats of paint, rather than trying to get things over with in one coat. With an airbrush you need little more than a light misting for your first coat - enough to allow it to 'key' onto the plastic.
You've already given yourself a good start by looking around Aeroscale - if you need any help, you know where to come.
Cheers!
Jeff W.
csch
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
AeroScale: 1,040 posts
Joined: December 27, 2002
KitMaker: 1,941 posts
AeroScale: 1,040 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 07:47 PM UTC
Hi corc:
Welcome to Aeroscale .
If after the sanding, the scratches still persists you can try with Mr. Surfacer 1200. This is a fantastc product to achieve smooth surfaces. Basiclly it´s diluted putty that comes in two ways, in a bottle to apply with a brush or in an aerosol can. In this case I recomend the aerosol can.
Here you´ll find some info:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html
If you decide to use it, first practice over a plasticard sheet or other plastic surface to achieve some skill. Spray it from more or less 20-25 cm and moving the flow over the model to avoid dripping.
Welcome to Aeroscale .
If after the sanding, the scratches still persists you can try with Mr. Surfacer 1200. This is a fantastc product to achieve smooth surfaces. Basiclly it´s diluted putty that comes in two ways, in a bottle to apply with a brush or in an aerosol can. In this case I recomend the aerosol can.
Here you´ll find some info:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html
If you decide to use it, first practice over a plasticard sheet or other plastic surface to achieve some skill. Spray it from more or less 20-25 cm and moving the flow over the model to avoid dripping.
corc
Joined: September 16, 2006
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:28 PM UTC
Thanks for the welcome.
I'm brush painting this one with Humbrol matt enamels, I think I'll stick with the brush until I've developed my technique to a reasonable standard, then maybe try airbrushing a 1:48.
This is all great advice anyway, I probably wouldn't have thought to wash the plastic down before I primed the plane (I'm using a can of Halfords primer for that). I'll try some finer wet and dry on those scratches too, and invest in either a polishing kit or some of that Mr Surfacer stuff for my next model (an FW 190 most likely).
So if I'm using brushes I shouldn't mix thinner with the paint then? I'm still wondering about that, because it looks fairly thick in the tin and I'd rather do what you say and layer on a couple coats to keep the detail of the rivets and not have brush marks etc.
Thanks guys.
I'm brush painting this one with Humbrol matt enamels, I think I'll stick with the brush until I've developed my technique to a reasonable standard, then maybe try airbrushing a 1:48.
This is all great advice anyway, I probably wouldn't have thought to wash the plastic down before I primed the plane (I'm using a can of Halfords primer for that). I'll try some finer wet and dry on those scratches too, and invest in either a polishing kit or some of that Mr Surfacer stuff for my next model (an FW 190 most likely).
So if I'm using brushes I shouldn't mix thinner with the paint then? I'm still wondering about that, because it looks fairly thick in the tin and I'd rather do what you say and layer on a couple coats to keep the detail of the rivets and not have brush marks etc.
Thanks guys.
Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:41 PM UTC
Hi corc
Yes - you could add a drop or two of thinners to the paint - but you don't want it too thin when brush-painting. I'm afraid judging the consistency is a case of "practice makes perfect"... If it's too thin, the paint will form puddles of colour, leaving the high points bare.
IMPORTANT: Mix it in a separate little pot. Never add the thinners directly to the paint in its bottle or jar, because you'll upset the chemical balance of the paint and it will dry up.
All the best
Rowan
Yes - you could add a drop or two of thinners to the paint - but you don't want it too thin when brush-painting. I'm afraid judging the consistency is a case of "practice makes perfect"... If it's too thin, the paint will form puddles of colour, leaving the high points bare.
IMPORTANT: Mix it in a separate little pot. Never add the thinners directly to the paint in its bottle or jar, because you'll upset the chemical balance of the paint and it will dry up.
All the best
Rowan