In a 1983 issue of Fine Scale Modeler is an article about achieving realistic NMF with multiple finishes from a single paint. That paint is (was--they changed the formula about 10years ago. IIRC, it was lacquer based, now it is enamel) Floquil, known for its vast line of model railroad colors, and even military colors. From that time I have used Floquil almost exclusively for NMF--it dries rock hard, does not lift off with tape, enamels can not mar it, and it shines like the sun! I have not yet tried Alcad (I plan to someday) but am sticking with Floquil as I have achieved several high-shine NMF with it. The unique thing about it is that when dry, the single color can be buffed and rubbed by different materials and you can get about as many different finishes from the single color as you are willing to create!

Floquil is excellent--the cowl was sprayed straight over bare plastic.

My Academy P-47N has molding blemishes on it. These are not pits or rough surfaces, but rather you can see differing molding flow marks--“currents” in the plastic, if you will. These are circled in red.

You can also see them on the gear doors:

Note that along the ammo access doors on the wings, on the inside of the wing is molded a trough so that you can cut out the access door to expose the ammo bay; notice that this leaves a definite ‘fingerprint’ even after two coats of gloss primer.

Most of my models are camouflaged dark so I have not had to contend with this before. However, this P-47 will be NMF (natural metal finish). These blemishes have appeared through not only the primer, but the silver as well. Have any of you encountered this, and if so, how do you eliminate these ’current’ blemishes?

Additionally, notice the grainy areas on the NMF. They feel glass-smooth. I realize that such a thin, shiney bright finish will expose any flaw, but does this look like something other than spattery airbrushing?



Have any of you encountered this?

Hi Fred

I'm not sure if it's true on your example, but I've encountered flow marks in plastic before that actually do cause very slight surface indentations - sometimes almost like small curved cracks. Priming and polishing should even them out but, of course, a NMF is going to highlight any imperfection.

A grainy finish is often a symptom of the paint partly drying before it reaches the surface of the model.

I wish Floquil was more easily available in the UK - it looks great stuff!

All the best

Rowan

I always like Old Silver, didn't know they changed the formula though. Glad I have a bottle or two of the old Dio-sol stuff laying about.

You could try a filler primer. Look for it where they sell touch-up paint for cars. It is thicker than normal primer and designed to fill blemishes and faint scratches. After spraying it on it can be sanded back to a smooth surface. In the UK it is sold by Halfords as Plastic Filler Primer and is a bright yellow colour. There should be something similar in the US.

Hi Guys,

I believe the grainy texture is in the plastic from the molding. I sprayed the paint so it looks wet so I don't think it was the paint drying before contacting the surface.

Last night I flooded it with gloss black and the blemishes are still there. I will polish these areas and then recoat.

Fred I've encountered these marks as well, two things I have tried -- one buffing the areas before I paint and Buffing with SnJ polishing powder either before of after paint -- works sometimes -- not a cure, sorry.

FYI Model Master Metalizer Lacquer 1451 works much as you describe Floquil's silver (buffing to achieve varying textures) and does a pretty good job of covering such blems. I most admit I do not apply it sparingly.