Hi all!

I usually make WWII aircraft / tanks, but now im gonna try Tamiya's Mig 15 Bis for a change. My knowledge of this plain is zero, so what i would like to ask you is this:
Did Mig 15's have any camouflage besides the one Tamiya describes in the building manual, or did they all fly without? Maybe one of you has a link to a photo, or maybe a scan showing some camo patterns of this aircraft?

Thanks!

Dolf

Hi Dolf,
Try here
http://www.samolet.co.uk/mig-15bis.html :-)
Mal

Nice link Mal!! Especially handy since I was seriously considering a Mig-15 for my next wingy project. That decided for me. Thanks

:-)

Well TwistedFate I have a Tamiya Mig 15bis waiting for me to decide what method of NMF I'm going to use :-) I feel yet another group build coming on EEK :-)

Dolf
I've just seen your FW 190 F8 on the Rivet Review board and I see you don't use an airbrush. If you want to do a Natural Metal Finish have you thought about spray car paint? The acrylic stuff. If you had 2 or 3 shades you could spray one all over, mask what you wanted to stay that shade, spray the second shade, mask that out spray the third, remove masking, hey presto NMF. You would have to go a bit easy with the spray but it would work. :-)
Mal

Whoa !!! Great link Mal !! Exactely what i was looking for
As you could guess when you saw the post about my FW 190 F8, i like painting camo schemes on my aircraft, which is the very reason for my question here.

Hmmm, never tried NMF on planes before. Ill try that technique on one of my "practice" kits !

Thanks !

For NMF I would always go for ALCLAD II system. Every time


See their website.

Wow! That sure is a shiny F-104 Desert-Fox. Nice, very nice.

:-) Dolf,


I just love NMF, partly because of the challenge but mainly, when done correctly, it just looks so good. You only have to look at Desert-Fox's F 104, also take a look at my P47N, on the RRB: https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/8338&page=2
It was done with Allclad II. After seeing an artical in FSM though, I'm planning on doing my next NMF with kitchen foil. It looks even more realistic. :-)
Mal

Holdfast, could you brief us about alclad a bit ?
I went to my modeling shop last saterday an d the guy theere told me it was a bit dificult to use and most of all it was "unstable" (goes away on your fingers".
He said you had to apply other colors first, by masking well the place for the alclad, because the other color would show up through the alclad !
I haven't used it so I have no idea... What was your opinion ?

Never had a problem using alclad II. The key is in the preparation, get that right and the rest is a dream. You need to paint the model GLOSS black first. This medium is airbrush only and does not require thinning.You CAN mask the paint almost immediately as it dries straight away. See their website for more details.

PS The F-104 is not mine (wish it was) but borrowed from Alclad website to make the point.

http://www.alclad2.com/

Thank you for the link !

Hi pen pen HHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!


1. It is not difficult to use.
2. It is very stable.
3. It is, relatively expensive. £3.50-£4.00. but it is very good. I personally think that SNJ can give a better look and it is easier to use. I am heading towards kitchen foil as the ultimate NMF.
However back to Allclad, the instructions say:
"To ensure the best results the model must be primed with an acrylic primer, car paint is ideal (I use Halfords grey plastic primer. The primer should be polished with with fine wet & dry paper I use 0000 wire wool. Spray 2 light coats of ALCLAD on to the model (10-12 psi)-10 minutes drying time is sufficiant. ALCLAD II can be polished using Micromesh cloths (I have found that this can remove the ALCLAD, if you are not careful. I polished some panels on my P47N with aluminium powder), it can be handled, masked and sprayed over. If using liquid masks on canopies apply two coats of masking I use Parafilm M with no trouble. To clean airbrushes use Sprayaway or cellulose (laquer) thinners - do not use white spirit or enamel thinners.
If you can see "swirls or flow marks" in the plastic apply two light coats of primer to these areas as they are imperfections in the plastic which will spoil the eventual finish.
HIGHLY POLISHED ALUMINIUM
This shade must be applied over a very shiny dark surface.Apply a coat of plastic primer, if necessary rub down with fine wet & dry. Spray a coat of acrylic gloss black paint - car paints or model acrylics are fine. Airbrush two light coats of laquer - use a narrow spray width. the finish can be further polished with a soft cloth.
ALCLAD CHROME
To enable this chrome finish to work it must be applied over gloss black enamel paint. the surface should be wiped clean prior to spraying - finger prints on the undercoat will show through the chrome. Spray light coats onto the model - allow 1-2 minutes between coats. Decals can be placed directly onto the surface - setting solutions are not recomended for use with chrome finish".
Here's a pic of a 1/72 F104 Starfighter, finished with SNJ so you can compare the finish with Alclad.

I think Martin will agree that a NMF isn't hard but just like most things in modelling, requires just a little application and patiance.
Mal

Aoooowww.... you're getting me more and more interested !
You talk about cellulose thinner : what is it ?
You also talk about SNJ : what is it too ?
Maybe I'll get myself a Mig15 too... but I feel that the green stripes look better.

:-) penpen


I believe cellulose thinner is the same as laquer thinner. It's quit powerful stuff and is the reason that you have to prime Alclad with acrylic primer.
SNJ is easier to apply than Alclad, it is sprayed directly on to the plastic, dries in no time, can be masked over and painted on. It can be tinted with enamal paint to give different panel shades. It is polished with aluminium powder. The model of the 104 has only been polished, but to achieve the different panel effects I masked off panels and polished them different amounts. From no polishing to 3 polishings. The front end of the wing tip drop tanks, for example, were polished 3 times. It could easily be polished to a mirror finish. The darker panels are Humbrol Metal Coat. From comments I've heard about SNJ I would guess that punters weren't able to get to grips with it, I found it easy to work with but it is difficult to find. Alclad is far more popular, there are plenty of shades, even multi hued shades for cars. In my opinion most models done in Alclad are far to shiny to look realistic (they look chromed) and should be weathered. Another problem with NMF is the thickness of the decals shows up, because you tend not to put a finishing coat over it. I used 3 coats of Klear on my P47N and it looked far better, it also looked far better for being weathered. I used a dark grey wash.
I have mentioned this elsewere, I think that kitchen foil is the way to go for a NMF. I've done some experimenting and am contemplating having a go. The panel shading has been my sticking point but I think I may have cracked it. It will eather be spectacular, or a spectacilar flop. I am thinking about doing an artical but I've got so many other things on the go, but I really do want to try this.
I just love NMF :-)
Mal

Oh no, you made me do it again !
I just saw the Mig 15 bis on ebay and I baught it !

Lol penpen

Thanks for your info Holdfast, im getting more and more interested in doing a plane in NMF!
Do you happen to know if Allclad can be bought in Holland too, or is there a site where i can order it? And can it be used with brushes too?

Dolf

:-) Hi Dolf,
Sorry I don't know if you can buy Alclad in Holland, I wouldn't be surprised though. I have only bought mine at the IPMS Scale Modelworld in the UK.
I'm afraid it can't be brushed on
Mal

You can buy here in the UK
http://www.hannants.co.uk/
Hope this helps.

I just got my MIG 15 kit through the mail today !
I think I'll go for one of the funky chinese camo, with stripes. That will be a test for my airbrushing skills !