For those who like spiced models, our chief cook Fred Rick Boucher (JPTRR) has prepared a very special menu. If you want to get it right, just follow the receipt...

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If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Thanks!

That looks great! I've saved it on my favorites to get back to later....
Hope to see more features on weathering.

Most impressive Fred!

Chewers beware huh. I use spit to check to see if I have sanded areas well enough (add some spit shine and grooves pop out). Now there is a new application!!

I've seen multiple applications of this and noone has ever applied it that way or warned of the pooling - well done.

Hi Fred

Nice job! I definitely want to give this technique a try!

All the best

Rowan

Hi Fred.
Nice feature!
Ive been wanting to try the salt technique for a while now as the old silver pencil just doesnt seem to cut it anymore.
One question your article brings up.You say its important to wash the surface before applying Klear for decalling. I use mainly acrylic paint nowdays.Do you run the risk of washing the paint off by doing this, and if so,how do you get around this?
Nige

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for your encouragement! I am sure you will all find this a good thing to try.

Scott, spit-shining!?! I love it!




Nige, you bring up something I did not think to mention. The first P-40 and the Ki-44 Tojo are painted with enamels. The Grace is primed with acrylic aluminum of my beloved Polly Scale, but the rest were primed with enamel silvers of various brands. Their exterior paints are all acrylic, Polly Scale, Aero Master and old Pactra.

The Polly Scale dries rock hard, quickly (in fact, the Buffalo was painted green, chipped, tape-masked and painted black, re-chipped and rinsed within 3 hours; the Ki-84 Frank was painted and allowed to cure a day, and I was not able to scratch any of the Polly Scale off!) I have soaked my models painted with Polly Scale in water to soften liquid masks for removal--no problem.

However, Pactra reacts differently. Soaking, even heavy rinsing, my models painted with Pactra in water causes the paint to blister--scores of little blisters. I first found this on a RAF F-4K I am building. Thinking it was ruined, I left in disgust. Returning the next day, the water had evaporated and the paint was smooth again! The green on the Buffalo is Pactra, the yellow is Polly Scale. Just washing the salt off caused the Pactra to blister. By the next morning it was fine.

So, I have had no problem with washing or soaking off my acrylic paints in water. Bio-degradable Simple Green removes these acrylics quickly. So do some window cleaners. In fact, I am considering reworking the Frank's chipping by removing the Future with ammonia (which does not hurt the paint) and attacking the Polly Scale with Simple Green. Stay tuned!

Great feature Fred.
I always wondered how to keep the salt on the plane while spraying.
Will definitely try this technique out.
Andy

Brilliant!! I'm at this stage now with my 1/72 B-52 so I will be trying it this weekend. Roll on Saturday. What do you do about weathering decals?

Thanks! Will definitely give this a try on my F4U Corsair...

I know this is about using salt for weathering aircraft but this is what I did on a 76th JB Land Rover Ambulance ... Hope you all don't mind me showing this in this thread?

Hi Qwacker,

The decals are a challenge. I tend mask the NMF where the decal will be (if I can accurrately figure out where the decal will lay) and then tear the decal to expose the NMF. Or, I watch for where the decal settles in the slight depression caused by the chip, and spot-tear the decal there. Mainly, traditional silver pencil / paint goes on the decal.




Hi Future, feel free to post! The article is about salt weathering, not merely aircraft--I just haven't build many AFVs lately.

Thanks Fred, I'll give it a bash, oops wrong joice of words, I'll give it a go when I get there. Cheers.

I use rock salt. I break up the rocks to the desired size I need. Then wet the area that is to be weathered. Of course the base coat of paint is already dry. Then apply the rock salt to the wet area. Let it dry. Paint your top coat. Let that dry. The knock off the rock salt. And you have lovely paint chips waiting to be weathered.

Then use a wash and this really helps to highlight the difference between the top coat and base coat where the salt weathering has been used. I prefer this than painting chipped paint.

Uh-oh! Who's article do you like the best?

Another Site's Salt Weathering Article