I am getting ready to build Trumpeter's CH-47A. I plan on dipping the canopy in Future (never did this before), and I plan on using Frisket film to mask the canopy prior to installation and painting. If I let the Future cure for say, 48-72 hours, will there be any problems masking with the Frisket? Any other thoughts, comments, or recommendations?
Thanks in advance.
Thomas
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Future and masking
trahe
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 06:02 PM UTC
bilko
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 06:51 PM UTC
thomas
I can't speak about frisket film as I haven't used it for maskinhg canopies (yet).
However I use the Australian equivalent of Future and then mask with Tamiya tape after 24+ hours without any problems. I don't know how "sticky/tacky" frisket is, Tamiya is certainly low tack.
So I imagine that as long as the Future has had sufficient time to properly cure you shouldn't have any problems.
Mind you I have said this from the safety of the Pacific Ocean away from you :-) so if I have got it wrong you won't be knocking on my door in a hurry .
If you don't have a spare canopy to practice on first then maybe wait until someone more knowledgeable than me responds.
Brian
I can't speak about frisket film as I haven't used it for maskinhg canopies (yet).
However I use the Australian equivalent of Future and then mask with Tamiya tape after 24+ hours without any problems. I don't know how "sticky/tacky" frisket is, Tamiya is certainly low tack.
So I imagine that as long as the Future has had sufficient time to properly cure you shouldn't have any problems.
Mind you I have said this from the safety of the Pacific Ocean away from you :-) so if I have got it wrong you won't be knocking on my door in a hurry .
If you don't have a spare canopy to practice on first then maybe wait until someone more knowledgeable than me responds.
Brian
trahe
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 07:04 PM UTC
Brian,
Thanks. I'm not tied to Frisket, so perhaps I'll try the Tamiya tape.
And I will practice on an old canopy first!
Thomas
Thanks. I'm not tied to Frisket, so perhaps I'll try the Tamiya tape.
And I will practice on an old canopy first!
Thomas
klimmer
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 07:56 PM UTC
I use Tamiya tape all the time after "future". I have never had an issue. Even using stronger tape. I think the key is making sure it has cured fully before masking.
Good luck.
Ted
Good luck.
Ted
trahe
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 04:51 PM UTC
Ted,
Thanks. Tamiya tape it will be.
Thanks. Tamiya tape it will be.
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 10:00 PM UTC
Before dipping, make sure that the clear parts are clean (being dust-free isn't a bad thing either ) . While the future may stick well, the coat is more likely to lift if the parts have oils from your hands while handling them. After experiencing some lifting with a canopy after drying for a day, I've taken the habit of allowing at least 48h before masking.
Tamiya tape is what I use too. The best tape I've tried. I really don't know how I managed to struggle with Scotch's magic tape. (nothing wrong with it, but just isn't the right stuff for masking canopies)
Tamiya tape is what I use too. The best tape I've tried. I really don't know how I managed to struggle with Scotch's magic tape. (nothing wrong with it, but just isn't the right stuff for masking canopies)
trahe
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 11:13 PM UTC
Eetu,
Thanks for the tip on cleaning the parts first. I knew that, but didn't think about it, and probably would have forgotten to do it! Now I will remember!
Thanks for the tip on cleaning the parts first. I knew that, but didn't think about it, and probably would have forgotten to do it! Now I will remember!
warlock0322
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 19, 2007 - 03:31 PM UTC
I use Frisket over future all the time and never ever had a problem.
Sometimes the stuff has been on for months and peeled off the future dipped parts like it was done yesterday...
Sometimes the stuff has been on for months and peeled off the future dipped parts like it was done yesterday...
trahe
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 04:11 AM UTC
Paul,
Thanks. I think I'll practice with both.
Thanks. I think I'll practice with both.
wizard179
New South Wales, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 04:28 AM UTC
If you haven't used future before, it will pool in places on the canopy. Mostly around the curves and bends. Get rid of the excess with a clean brush, preferably an old one or a cheap one because it won't last too long after you future it.
I don't know if there is an article on this site about it, would be surprised if there wasn't though. Have a search.
I agree with Emeritus regarding Tamiya tape for canopy masking; its a lot thinner and the lighter colour makes it easier to see the frame lines. I use Scotchtape for the fuselage.
Cheers
Wiz
I don't know if there is an article on this site about it, would be surprised if there wasn't though. Have a search.
I agree with Emeritus regarding Tamiya tape for canopy masking; its a lot thinner and the lighter colour makes it easier to see the frame lines. I use Scotchtape for the fuselage.
Cheers
Wiz
Emeritus
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 07:36 PM UTC
I haven't had any problems with future pooling in. After dipping, I touch the lower edges of the canopy to a piece of tissue to absorb to the extra future that might cause problems. (Using a brush to remove the excess should be done as soon as possible after dipping to prevent brushmarks. I have found the tissue-method working fine, as future is quite runny out of the bottle)
The coat of future will then usually look thick, but it levels out nicely.
The coat of future will then usually look thick, but it levels out nicely.
trahe
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 08:46 PM UTC
Wiz, Eetu,
Thanks for the tips. Looks like I will definitely practice a few times before I'm ready for prime time!
Thanks for the tips. Looks like I will definitely practice a few times before I'm ready for prime time!
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 10:28 PM UTC
One more thing. Putting the dipped parts on a piece of tissue to dry helps further absorb excess future, and putting a plastic freezing container or similar over them will keep dust away as they dry.
trahe
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 11:33 PM UTC
Good point. Don't need all that dust embedded in the finish.
Thanks to all for your tips!
Thanks to all for your tips!