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General Aircraft: Tips & Techniques
Discussions on specific A/C building techniques.
Future and masking
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 06:02 PM UTC
I am getting ready to build Trumpeter's CH-47A. I plan on dipping the canopy in Future (never did this before), and I plan on using Frisket film to mask the canopy prior to installation and painting. If I let the Future cure for say, 48-72 hours, will there be any problems masking with the Frisket? Any other thoughts, comments, or recommendations?

Thanks in advance.
Thomas
bilko
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 22, 2003
KitMaker: 584 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 06:51 PM UTC
thomas

I can't speak about frisket film as I haven't used it for maskinhg canopies (yet).

However I use the Australian equivalent of Future and then mask with Tamiya tape after 24+ hours without any problems. I don't know how "sticky/tacky" frisket is, Tamiya is certainly low tack.

So I imagine that as long as the Future has had sufficient time to properly cure you shouldn't have any problems.

Mind you I have said this from the safety of the Pacific Ocean away from you :-) so if I have got it wrong you won't be knocking on my door in a hurry .

If you don't have a spare canopy to practice on first then maybe wait until someone more knowledgeable than me responds.

Brian
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 07:04 PM UTC
Brian,

Thanks. I'm not tied to Frisket, so perhaps I'll try the Tamiya tape.

And I will practice on an old canopy first!

Thomas
klimmer
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 16, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 07:56 PM UTC
I use Tamiya tape all the time after "future". I have never had an issue. Even using stronger tape. I think the key is making sure it has cured fully before masking.
Good luck.

Ted
trahe
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 04:51 PM UTC
Ted,

Thanks. Tamiya tape it will be.
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 10:00 PM UTC
Before dipping, make sure that the clear parts are clean (being dust-free isn't a bad thing either ) . While the future may stick well, the coat is more likely to lift if the parts have oils from your hands while handling them. After experiencing some lifting with a canopy after drying for a day, I've taken the habit of allowing at least 48h before masking.
Tamiya tape is what I use too. The best tape I've tried. I really don't know how I managed to struggle with Scotch's magic tape. (nothing wrong with it, but just isn't the right stuff for masking canopies)
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2007 - 11:13 PM UTC
Eetu,

Thanks for the tip on cleaning the parts first. I knew that, but didn't think about it, and probably would have forgotten to do it! Now I will remember!
warlock0322
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: January 13, 2003
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Posted: Friday, January 19, 2007 - 03:31 PM UTC
I use Frisket over future all the time and never ever had a problem.
Sometimes the stuff has been on for months and peeled off the future dipped parts like it was done yesterday...
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 04:11 AM UTC
Paul,

Thanks. I think I'll practice with both.
wizard179
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New South Wales, Australia
Joined: January 27, 2006
KitMaker: 251 posts
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 04:28 AM UTC
If you haven't used future before, it will pool in places on the canopy. Mostly around the curves and bends. Get rid of the excess with a clean brush, preferably an old one or a cheap one because it won't last too long after you future it.

I don't know if there is an article on this site about it, would be surprised if there wasn't though. Have a search.

I agree with Emeritus regarding Tamiya tape for canopy masking; its a lot thinner and the lighter colour makes it easier to see the frame lines. I use Scotchtape for the fuselage.

Cheers
Wiz
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 07:36 PM UTC
I haven't had any problems with future pooling in. After dipping, I touch the lower edges of the canopy to a piece of tissue to absorb to the extra future that might cause problems. (Using a brush to remove the excess should be done as soon as possible after dipping to prevent brushmarks. I have found the tissue-method working fine, as future is quite runny out of the bottle)
The coat of future will then usually look thick, but it levels out nicely.
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 08:46 PM UTC
Wiz, Eetu,

Thanks for the tips. Looks like I will definitely practice a few times before I'm ready for prime time!
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
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Posted: Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 10:28 PM UTC
One more thing. Putting the dipped parts on a piece of tissue to dry helps further absorb excess future, and putting a plastic freezing container or similar over them will keep dust away as they dry.
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
AeroScale: 73 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 11:33 PM UTC
Good point. Don't need all that dust embedded in the finish.

Thanks to all for your tips!
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