Agreed very interesting.

Step c.) Is where you assemble the observers gun ring base (RP 17 ) to the gun mount ( RP 26) and Parabellum machine gun (RP 31.) It is a generic detailed representation of the original. I replaced mine with a white metal item from Aeroclub that had the cooling jacket replaced with a Fotocut item. Finish it in semi-gloss black with details dry brushed with gunmetal. The stock and grip in Testors 1166 varnished brown. Copper State Models and Aeroclub Parabellums are among other very good examples available. Check your references.

Step d.) Has you simply glue the forward Spandau facade (RP 25) into the starboard fuselage recess (RP 2.) I notched the bulkhead / former (RP 22) and the instrument panel (RP 23) and installed one of my spare complete items. The profile of the Spandau breech and its mechanisms should in most cases depict a late 1915 or early 1916 type. If you open the cowling up for view finish the Spandau in semi-gloss black with details dry brushed with gunmetal.

Step e.) Also the wiring and fuel lines need to be manufactured from thin brass wire and solder these should appear to run forward into the engine compartment. Switch levers need to be added on the instrument panel (RP 23 ) are for the fuel and air delivery systems for the main and auxiliary fuel supplies. Also the starting magneto on the left side of RP 23. needs an oval section of plastic added to its face then the switch should be mounted through that. You could add a solder “air hose” to the hand pump assembly on the right side of RP 23. Then close up the fuselage assembly. Note - Step e.) is continued on the next page of the instructions.

This thread will continue. Images to come. The 1/32 Roden Pfalz D.III has taken up some space.

As mentioed previously the scale drawings, photos and directions to the Jager kit point to three different thickness interplane strut sizes. 2mm, 2.5mm & 3mm in 1/48 scale. Here is the progress upto mounting the top wing. The rigging came next.

From the rear quarters

Here is the underside view. Still lots of work but I am enjoying build as much as I ever have any previously.

Greetings all; Andy Zsek of Idflieg.com has added a walkaround to his site of the Deutsches Museum Rumpler. The engine is a lower horsepowered Mercedes but otherwise its a great template for model builders.

http://www.idflieg.com/munchen_rumpler_civ.htm

Are there any questions?

Hi Stephen

No questions - but plenty of inspiration for my WW1 purple-chasing! We basically can't get Testors paints in the UK, so I've been trying out Revell mixes today... there's definitely hope of achieving something more in the ballpark than my previous effort.

All the best

Rowan

Take insignia red and blue. Mix 3 parts blue to 2 parts red then add 1 part white. That will put you in the ball park.

Merlin and the quest for the purple color... this could be a nice book title!

I hope you will find your Holly Grail Rowan, or should I say Holly Purple!

Jean-Luc

Its baaaaaack! After a short dormant period (while building a pretty silver bird) We are back at the Planet Models Rumpler C.IV..

As mentioned much earlier on page one, step "e" is continued and we pick it up.Now assemble the tail surfaces ( RP 10,12,29 & 35 ) and scratch build their support struts from extruded brass rod. I will finish / paint the upper surface of the lower wings and the under surface of the upper wing then move on to the interplane struts (PX 1- 8.) At this juncture I assembly a jig from children’s “Lego type” building blocks. Keep the leading edge of the lower wings at a slight stagger back to the fuselage side. The horizontal tail surfaces are in a similar attitude. Save the acetate windshields (film) for later. Also check that the sit of the interplane struts(PE 1 - 8 ) are slightly staggered forward. While the model is in the jig of building blocks insure the lower wing tips ( RP 3 & 4) are raised 3mm from the horizontal plane.

The propeller is in the Heine profile but there were at least 6 companies with distinctive profiles that were used on the 260hp Mercedes D.IVa and the 245hp Maybach Mb.IVa motors found in examples of the Rumpler C.IV types. Check your references.

Step f.) Consider the profile of the aircraft that your doing and decide if you want to separate the top wing ( RP 6 ) or just scribe a line that represents the separation.

Step g.) While the radiator (RP 7) screen is good, I like to use Detail Master’s mesh screen and scratchbuild a radiator facade on the basic kit item. Using the basic radiator ((RP 7) I remove all details. Then glue small strips of screen on front and back faces. Over this I add small shutter details from strip plastic stock. Also add a filler spout from sprue at the appropriate location.

Step h.) Either way you can still use the kit provided wing trestle ( RP 13 - 16) or scratchbuild your own. You can set the top wing (RP 6 ) in place now. Let it set up in the jig until rigid.

Step i.) If you use the kit supplied under carriage parts (PX 1 & 2.) treat them the same way as the resin interplane struts (PX 1- 8 ) inserting the ends into the predrilled holes. Replace the resin axle ( RP 21 ) with brass rod and wrap the axle in the crotch of the undercarriage Vees to represent the bungee shock chords. It is important to have the axle run perpendicular to the fuselage center line. Now finish with the interplane rigging. I replaced these parts with extruded brass rod. The long fillet (RP 11) that attaches to the bottom is a shroud for the lower end of the control column and the elevator cables. The Datafile suggested on one page that is was for additional bombs . But on a diagram page later on, it clearly shows the control cables and their attachment to the control column.

Greetings all;

Since this is my purchase and I am building this for someone else I won't be using the kit schemes. Here is the machine I am duplicating.

or a Monty Python sketch

cheers

Steffen

Step j.) Now finish with the interplane rigging.

Camouflage:
Various camouflage patterns were seen on these airframes and were often altered in the field especially when new or repaired components were added. Common colours were dark green, light green, red brown, mid brown, dark brown, mauve and later even 5 colour lozenge was used. There were captured examples that tell us as much. But one must avoid any colour research by the late Rodney Gerrard as it is been proven to be fake and cannot be trusted. Trust only verified “Flight” reports on captured aircraft. The patterns seemed at least close in approximate shape but they were never exactly the same from one machine to another. Also I could have gone either was on this machine with the dk grn or dk grn and mauve. I chose the later version.

The kit is finished and the images are to be shot later tomorrow and we will put this bird under plastic for its new home in New Mexico.

Here is the finished build.

Comments;
Sleek and sharp this aircraft has much in common with later high altitude reconn aircraft. They always seem to look better in flight than just static on the ground. This kit brings the builder a chance to really have a bit of fun in its assembly. With only minor fit problems that are easily overcome, I found that I really enjoyed this build. Though I would like an alternate set of nose cowling parts for the spinner type, I can’t fault the kit. If you are lucky enough to get your hands on one do yourself a favor and build it.

Another fantastic build from you, Stephen ... many thanks!!!

It's really itching .. but at the moment I am bound to do some carpet cutting and furniture assembly instead of cutting and assembling one of my models I took with me.... so it is really nice to join the forum once in a while and see the great work of others !

Thanks again

best wishes

Steffen

Me thinks the Fuji filme stock 35mm has altered the overall look of this bird and the mauve is too intense here. Also it is equally possible that th mauve could have been substituted with the lt. green used during the summer 1917.

Another amazing build.

One thing that you might want to school us novices on are the laminated propellers and your technique for painting them.

Thanks Stephen

I think that can be arranged.

I figured you would be amenable to that. I will be carving a wood propeller from laminated maple and walnut for my next build. I can add that to it, as a lesson in the harder way to do something simple, if you wish.