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Which Airbrush?
TwinSquirrel
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England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: June 24, 2008
KitMaker: 4 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 12:00 AM UTC
I'm new to this forum... what an amazing resource (just read all of HawkeveV's post on 'Reading the Seams" - awesome!).

Having made only brush painted models before with average results, I am about to puchase an airbrush and wondered whether anyone on here could provide me with any guidance. I am interested in the Badger Airbrush Precision Spray Set - does anyone have any comments/ guidance on this product?

Also, any guidance on paint types will be most appreciated as I only have knowlegde of Airfix/ Humbrol range.

Thanks in advance
TS
AirLedge
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Cork, Ireland
Joined: July 26, 2007
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Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 06:28 AM UTC
Hi,

I'm no expert, but seeing as no-one has replied, here it goes ....

I've only been using an airbrush for about a year myself, but I can honestly say once you've mastered one there's no going back to paint brushes!

Basically there are a few things to consider before you take the plunge and buy one.

There are two main types: single action and dual action.
With single action airbrushes you only control the airflow through the nozzle by pressing the top button, you can't manipulate the flow of paint which is necessary to achieve very fine lines and other details. Single actions are relatively easy to use and clean.
Dual actions allow you to control the air pressure and the amount of paint that is released, giving you the ability to do very fine detailing etc. Dual actions are more difficult to use and clean.

I would recommend starting off with an inexpensive single action airbrush ahich will allow you to get the feel of airbrushing while reducing the number of potential problems beginners (like myself) generally have: thinning the paint, correct air pressure etc.

If you're serious about getting into airbrushing it is also a could idea to invest in a compressor.

Hope this helps.
gaborka
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Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
Joined: October 09, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 07:49 AM UTC
Hello,

I sell airbrushes so I encounter this question quite often. What I usually ask my client is, what do you need the airbrush for, what do you usually build. Also, there are many points worth considering. The question of single/double action airbrush is already explained (while theoretically the double action airbrush offers better control, I have seen many accomplished modelers preferring single action designs so this is not necessarily decisive). Which ever type you choose I advise you to take an airbrush with inner mixing (ie. paint and air is mixed within the body of the airbrush) to avoid dust getting into the paint mix.

Also, an almost religious issue in my country is the bottom feed/gravity feed question. Here the gravity feed pistols are usually associated with more precise painting capability, which, I think is not necessarily true. Bottom feed airbrushes can be equipped with the same nozzles and needles like the gravity feed brushes, so in theory you can spray the same pattern with them (indeed). Bottom feed airbrushes offer better balance and grip, thus better control, while gravity feed airbrushes may be easier to clean. Also consider what you paint, if you do very small things perhaps a top cup will disturb your vision. You can also go for a side-feed airbrush, in which the cup is located on the side of the airbrush body and you can adjust the angle of the cup so that it is always vertical, which comes handy everytime you spray something big where it is easier to move the airbrush rather than the model.

Also the other thing is the needle/nozzle size which is many times misinterpreted. Yes, there is a correlation between the pattern size you spray and the nozzle diameter, and many people like to go for the smallest diameters, like 0.2mm. But, if you paint 1/48 planes for example, or even 1/72 multi-engines or modern aircraft, you will grow a beard until you cover your plane with a 0,2 nozzle. Remember, that spraying fine lines depend also on the thinning of the paint, the pressure and the distance you hold your airbrush from the surface, besides the nozzle/needle size (you see in this formula nozzle size is only one factor).

Also for convenience, you can later look for airbrushes where you can control the backward movement of the needle with a screw on the grip (many Iwata or Kager models), or with a retaining screw in front of the button (like the Badger 150) - these are aids for fixing a set line pattern, which can be useful with difficult Luftwaffe camouflages, for example - or with a paint flow control screw below the cup joint area (Iwata Eclipse series, for example).

I personally use a double action gravity feed airbrush with 0,3 nozzle and a Tamiya continuous airflow compressor. This configuration is great for spraying 1/72 planes and priming figures, with careful thinning and setting the needle occasionally shading or highlighting even 30mm figures.
If I used a better compressor with a tank and adjustable pressure I could have more precise handling but I can live with what I have very well.

I hope this helps.
Tomcat31
#042
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England - North East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 03:31 AM UTC
Apart from what has already been said all I can say is look around and go with what you feel comforatble with and can afford. I've been using the same Badger 200 single action (which is the older version of the set you're looking at) for the last twelve plus years now and never had any problems and have even had positive comments on the work I have produced with it.

The fiance got me the Revell Fexible double action airbrush (which is an exact match for the Badger 360 Universal, it even uses the same parts numbers) as a surprise for Christmas and I've just strarted learning to use that (which is a whole new learning curve) and has produced some interesting results to say the least.

All I can really reccommend is to get an affordable compressor as it'll pay for it self in the long run i started out with several cheap compressors until I got the one I have now, the Ripmax T-RCP104 compressor and it has preformed better than some of my previous compressors the only down side is it doesn't have a pressure cut off If you do get a compressor avoid the Testors micro blue compressor as I found it got very hot and I could pass more wind than what it would produce

Hope this helps

Allen
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 07:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text


The fiance got me the Revell Fexible double action airbrush (which is an exact match for the Badger 360 Universal, it even uses the same parts numbers) as a surprise for Christmas and I've just strarted learning to use that (which is a whole new learning curve) and has produced some interesting results to say the least.


I got Badger's 360 and it sure looks quite similar to that Revell Master Class. Interesting results, how?

I don't have anything bad to say about the 360, although I can't say how it feels to learn a double-action AB after using a single-action one, as I started my airbrushing with it.
I don't feel it was too hard or tedious to learn.

I second Allen, do yourself a favor and purchase a compressor. When I was starting out with my airbrush, I used about half of one compressed air can and that was it, went out and bought myself a compressor. You could easily get a bad impression of the whole thing from hassling with those things.
Tomcat31
#042
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England - North East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 10:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I got Badger's 360 and it sure looks quite similar to that Revell Master Class. Interesting results, how?

I don't have anything bad to say about the 360, although I can't say how it feels to learn a double-action AB after using a single-action one, as I started my airbrushing with it.
I don't feel it was too hard or tedious to learn.

I second Allen, do yourself a favor and purchase a compressor. When I was starting out with my airbrush, I used about half of one compressed air can and that was it, went out and bought myself a compressor. You could easily get a bad impression of the whole thing from hassling with those things.

It's not too hard, learning was probably the wrong choice of words, it's more of getting use to pressing the trigger and not pulling back to hard. The interesting results were missing bits when spraying but I think i'm getting the hang of it now Camogirl (my fiance) did let me have a go with preshading (my second attempt ever) on one of her review kits and i thought it came out interesting for me as when I tried previously with my single action I ended up giving up.





Cheers
LongKnife
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Jönköping, Sweden
Joined: April 25, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, June 26, 2008 - 10:40 PM UTC
Hi, Sqirrel. I'm also quite new to the spraying business, and I was quite concerned about the outcome. It's not a cheap thing to buy, and i was also afraid to have to throw a lot of precious builds. Anyway, I now have a Badger Crescendo double action, probably what you're asking about, and I'm soon into the "what the h**l, I'll even spray the undercarriage struts".

However, it's also a matter of paint. I'm an environmental kind of guy, so I like to use acrylics and soft thinners. I've found out that Tamiyas acrylics work nice with swedish window cleaner (Yes, really ), but I have to have a Q-tip dipped in water in my right hand to clean off the needle every now and then. It might build up a bit, and start to spit if I'm not observant. This can mess up the "training period" so I would advice to go on enamels and heavy thinning stuff until you get the hang of it.

Here is an example from my latest (fourth) try on an a/c. First what seems like a messy and useless preshading.


And then the final result, which shows that it's a lot easier to do surfaces than detail


I say - Get the airbrush your'e looking at, practice on two cheap kits with rather easy paint schemes and you'll be proud of the third! Good luck
HawkeyeV
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: September 20, 2006
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Posted: Friday, June 27, 2008 - 02:22 AM UTC
As usual there has been a lot of great advice provided. Let me add this take on the topic.

Budget. Stepping into an airbrush can be expensive, don't go bargain you'll only regret it later. You need to look at what you can spend and divide it into three areas. 1) Airbrush 2) Compressor 3) Accessories.

You can run an airbrush off a compressor, tank, or even a filled car tire. Look at which option works for you. Put as much as you can afford into the airbrush as you can. A good tool last (when cared for) so the investment will be long term. Compressor, again don't go cheap, but if you have to for the short term its understandable. Make sure you get a regulator and moisture trap. Also be sure if your airbrush choice doesn't include a hose be sure to get one.

With any airbrush setup you purchase...practice practice practice. Practice makes permanent.

Bink123
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: June 23, 2008
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Posted: Friday, June 27, 2008 - 05:39 AM UTC
I have returned to scale modelling after an absence of about 40 years. Back in my early teens I grew frustrated with brushpainting, though I did get pretty good results as I recall with good old Humbrol enamels. I remember painting an Airfix 1/72 scale Halifax, a B25, a Lancaster, and an awful lot of 1/72 scale Revell biplanes. One of the reasons I quit was that I realized that if I wanted to continue, I had to get an air-brush - the models looked OK at a distance, but up close.....diffefrent story.

And so here I am at the same crossroads again, and even though for the past couple of years I've tried several different paint brands for brush-painting and I've setteled in on Games Workshop acrylics ( these are very good in my opinion), this time I have the dough to take the leap and get an air-brush set-up.

From what I've read, a double-action, gravity feed unit is the way to go for me. As I understand it, this allows the most flexibily in painting. So that's what I'll be looking for.

Having a background in HVAC, I agree that the best air source is a compressor with a reservoir, pressure regulator and moisture trap. I'd be careful in using make-shift air reservoirs unless they have been ceritified to be used as such - it would be easy to pressurize one of these up to too high a pressure - normally air receivers that are paired with a compressor have a pressure relief device of some sort and/or or a cut-out inter-locked with the compressor.

I've heard that soft-drink companies will rent out compressed CO2 cylinders charged with gas, but I imagine you'd have to put down a deposit on them. Automobile tyres might be a good alternative, but, connecting and dis-connecting them with regulator hook-up might be a chore.

For what it's worth, what I've written is from the view-point of some one who is still on this side of getting an air-brush, so it's theory mixed in with a bit of common sense, and some experience from a related field.

Good luck.


HawkeyeV
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: September 20, 2006
KitMaker: 319 posts
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Posted: Friday, June 27, 2008 - 09:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I have returned to scale modelling after an absence of about 40 years. Back in my early teens I grew frustrated with brushpainting, though I did get pretty good results as I recall with good old Humbrol enamels. I remember painting an Airfix 1/72 scale Halifax, a B25, a Lancaster, and an awful lot of 1/72 scale Revell biplanes. One of the reasons I quit was that I realized that if I wanted to continue, I had to get an air-brush - the models looked OK at a distance, but up close.....diffefrent story.

And so here I am at the same crossroads again, and even though for the past couple of years I've tried several different paint brands for brush-painting and I've setteled in on Games Workshop acrylics ( these are very good in my opinion), this time I have the dough to take the leap and get an air-brush set-up.

From what I've read, a double-action, gravity feed unit is the way to go for me. As I understand it, this allows the most flexibily in painting. So that's what I'll be looking for.

Having a background in HVAC, I agree that the best air source is a compressor with a reservoir, pressure regulator and moisture trap. I'd be careful in using make-shift air reservoirs unless they have been ceritified to be used as such - it would be easy to pressurize one of these up to too high a pressure - normally air receivers that are paired with a compressor have a pressure relief device of some sort and/or or a cut-out inter-locked with the compressor.

I've heard that soft-drink companies will rent out compressed CO2 cylinders charged with gas, but I imagine you'd have to put down a deposit on them. Automobile tyres might be a good alternative, but, connecting and dis-connecting them with regulator hook-up might be a chore.

For what it's worth, what I've written is from the view-point of some one who is still on this side of getting an air-brush, so it's theory mixed in with a bit of common sense, and some experience from a related field.

Good luck.





As you point out if you rent a CO2 cylinder you may have to put down a deposit...you'll get it back when you return the cylinder so you lose nothing. One may find it cheaper than plunking down the cash for a compressor. On the other hand you purchase a compressor, you don't get anything back if it fails or you move on unless you sell it.

Old car tire, well being a graduate of MacGyver University with a Masters Degree in Resourcing and Improvisation...you do what you need to do to get the job done.

Everyone has to access their needs and situation and decide from there.

Many double action airbushes can be setup to work as single action, so when one is ready to step forward they can.

Unless you are doing larger areas constantly, a gravity fed unit in my opinion is the way to go.

AiwaSoundSystem
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Idaho, United States
Joined: February 01, 2008
KitMaker: 52 posts
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Posted: Saturday, June 28, 2008 - 03:47 PM UTC
Once you have decided on your airbrush, you can do what i do for practicing with it. Instead of practicing on model after model, why not just go to a cheap dollar store (if one is handy) or some other discount store and buy the cheap die cast planes or even the cheesy plastic ones they sell for young kids. With the die cast planes I usually get them for 4 or 5 bucks, I can practice then sand or strip and practice some more. You can prime them however you want and practice, practice and practice over and over again. I bought one die cast p-51 and have probably practiced 10 times on it. Just practice wipe and repeat Hope that gives some ideas
AIRGUNNER
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 27, 2006
KitMaker: 246 posts
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Posted: Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 04:15 AM UTC
Hi,

Rowan reviewed this setup https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/review/2691

I went out and brought it and it performs superbly for such a cheap outfit. I brought spares( nozzles and needles) for the airbrush recently and the are also cheap.

Thoroughly recommended for a first set up

Steve
gaborka
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Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
Joined: October 09, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 08:57 AM UTC
The Fengda BD-130 is exactly what I have, and I am completely satisfied with it. I can only recommend it. Other Fengda products are also of very honest quality.



TwinSquirrel
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England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: June 24, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 09:00 PM UTC
Thank you to everyone above for replying. Your comments and suggestions have been a huge help.

Looking forward to hours of spraying anything but model helicopters before I become half descent at using an airbrush.

TS
robot_
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United Kingdom
Joined: March 08, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 11:05 PM UTC
I was wondering whether anyone has the AB-180 (Chinese, I guess Fengda), that is sold for around £30-45? Would the AB-130 probably be just as good for less money?

I bought the AB-128 (without researching enough), which is suction fed, and as I model in 1/72 I am wasting a lot of paint when I change colours. I want to be able to do finer lines, but also don't like clogging. Would going down to a 0.2mm nozzle just increase the chance of clogging, for no real gain in detail ability?

Do people find the need to change nozzle sizes for different jobs- i.e. is it useful to buy a 0.8, 0.5, 0.3 or 0.2 set?
golfermd
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Maryland, United States
Joined: March 01, 2013
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2013 - 06:43 AM UTC
As someone looking to buy my first airbrush I'd like to get something decent without breaking my bank. I looked at this set on Amazon and welcome comments: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Multi-purpose-Two-Airbrush-Set/dp/B004KNDR26/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1362249653&sr=8-19&keywords=badger+airbrush+kit
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
KitMaker: 3,897 posts
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2013 - 08:56 AM UTC
Looks suspiciously like an Iwata clone, (Fengda?), combined with a genuine "El Cheapo" starters single action. The nicest thing about this set is probably the price. Just my 2 cents..............
Julian
Siderius
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: September 20, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2013 - 09:02 AM UTC
Aztek line by Testors is what I use. I use the 4709 which is both a single/double action airbrush, really overkill, because most all the time I am in double action mode. Take a look at the Testors website for more. Easy to clean, easy to maintain especially with acrylic paints which is what I use. I run a high percentage solution of isopropyl alcohol mixed with some water through the airbrush to clean it. Easy screw in screw off heads for various size spray patterns, although I have found that I rarely use more than one or two of the heads. I would go with just the double action airbrush offered by Testors, I think they offer three heads with the kit. Hope this adds to the discussion some, Russell.
tinbanger
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 04, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2013 - 09:06 AM UTC
Are spare parts easily available?
You get what you pay for!
raypalmer
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 29, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2013 - 03:25 PM UTC
I just got the grex airbrush compressor, with a 1m hose and a trap there is zero pulsation.

On the Aztek issue... I hate my astek. Like a lot. The paint passes through the (tiny) spring in the nossels. It's a pain to clean. The handpiece is super hard to clean to and the plastic seems filmy. I'm jealous of my buddy's Iwata...
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 02, 2013 - 10:07 PM UTC
I did a review on the Neo by Iwata last year. A very nice beginners airbrush. Combine this with a garage compressor from the do it yourself store and you have a low budget set to start with. My airbrush of choice is the Badger Krome, really fantastic, easy to clean and very versatile.
Julian
48thscale
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Limburg, Netherlands
Joined: January 31, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 12:24 AM UTC
I've tried a few, bu for the past couple of years have been using the HARDER & STEENBECk "Evolution Two in One" set. It works, it always works, it is very predictable and extremely easy to clean. Even if you "forgot" and get confronted with that fact 5 days later. Takes about 5 minutes to get it into full clean working state. It will do all the tiny bits as easily as the large bits. Paints I use are primarily Vallejo & Lifecolor. With these paints and some thinner onecan do wonderfull things. In the aircraft arena I also use WhiteEnsign paint, mainly for their fantastic selectionof RAF colours. I tried DoD acrylic, but had no fun whatsoever with them...

Take a look at the H&D stuff, nothing sexy but absolutely the best I've used. WHat you see is what you get, and do not underestimate the cleaning bit...it makes life much easier.

Harald
spaarndammer
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 01:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I've tried a few, bu for the past couple of years have been using the HARDER & STEENBECk "Evolution Two in One" set. It works, it always works, it is very predictable and extremely easy to clean. Even if you "forgot" and get confronted with that fact 5 days later. Takes about 5 minutes to get it into full clean working state. It will do all the tiny bits as easily as the large bits. Paints I use are primarily Vallejo & Lifecolor. With these paints and some thinner onecan do wonderfull things. In the aircraft arena I also use WhiteEnsign paint, mainly for their fantastic selectionof RAF colours. I tried DoD acrylic, but had no fun whatsoever with them...

Take a look at the H&D stuff, nothing sexy but absolutely the best I've used. WHat you see is what you get, and do not underestimate the cleaning bit...it makes life much easier.

Harald



Another Harder and Steenbeck fan here.

I always had some troubles with my 2nd hand badger 150 (bottom feed) and on the advice of a fellow builder decided to buy a H&S Evolution (gravity feed) solo-0.2.

Airbrushing is much easier now and therefore more fun, surprisingly quite a big difference in fact, but this may also because my 2nd hand badger was quite old.

The H&S tool works great and is indeed easy to clean. I build 1/72 AC and for this the 0.2 needle works fine. I have yet only sprayed with Vallejo Air, but will soon try other paints as well.



Jelger
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
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#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 06:24 PM UTC
Yep Harder and Steenbeck, for me also, a fantastic airbrush, but possibly a bit to expensive for a first one? You will be fine with a Badger though, I had a single action Badger for many years but a double action airbrush is necessary for painting the likes of Italian "smoke ring" camo. My suggestion is to go for a double action airbrush that has a trigger position stop. That way you can use it as a single action but with the advantages of a double action. When you get more confident you can back the stop off and use it as a full double action. If I am doing a complicated camo scheme I tend to get the spray pattern correct and set the stop, so that I don't allow too much paint flow, and I don't have to worry about it; I think that I am far too used to a single action, but I really do think that the double action is far superior and is the reason I make my suggestion. A decent compressor is definitely necessary, the one in your picture doesn't have a holding tank and is a diaphragm type. This means that the airflow will pulse and it is therefore useless. There are ways around this; you can buy a separate holding tank or fit a larger diameter hose between the compressor and you airbrush hoss, which acts like a holding tank. An automatic cut off is a good feature to have too
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 10:02 AM UTC
Hi TS

I'm another Harder and Steenbeck fan (the Evolution simply has the best trigger action I've yet found), but I'd go with Julian in recommending the Iwata Neo CN as a quality budget airbrush. I also reviewed it HERE. Seeing as you're UK-based, one great thing is that if you buy it from Airbrushes.com down in Lancing, you get an extended 5-year warranty.

In fact, I would have recommended their custom-branded Premi-Air G35 - but that seems to have been discontinued in favour of the Neo CN.

But my biggest advice would be to try as many airbrushes as you can before buying one, because it really is the most subjective tool purchase you'll ever make. What works great for one modeller is awkward for another, and what is comfortable for one person to use can be literally painful for another in a lengthy spraying session. You probably won't find more love/hate relationships in modelling than in experiences with airbrushes!

All the best

Rowan
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