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nandith
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India / भारत
Joined: May 07, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 06:51 PM UTC
Hi im trying to find the right thinner for humbrol enamels. They are all matt finishes. I just picked up some local turpentine and some daler rowney low odour thinner. They both dry at the same pace however one dried if i rub them their matt core goes. Any tips on what i should be doing? Would be really helpful.

Thanks
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 04:04 AM UTC
Any thinner suitable for enamel paint should work with Humbrol. Does all the paint rub off, or does it just lose some of its matt finish?
nandith
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India / भारत
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 06:04 AM UTC
Hey thanks for the quick reply. the paint doesnt get wiped off only the matt finish.
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 06:15 AM UTC
That's pretty common for Humbrol, especially if you touch it with your bare skin. It picks up skin oils and that can change the reflectance. You can actually make it work for you if you want a semi-gloss or worn looking finish. Try using cotton gloves and handling the painted surfaces as little as possible if you want a dead flat finish.
nandith
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India / भारत
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 06:37 AM UTC
ok thanks alot. What paints would you suggest? I dont have an airbrush i just use a brush.One more thing alot of these model videos show people putting a coat of klear after finishing the model. What is its use?
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 07:52 AM UTC
Can you get Tamiya or Gunze acrylics? They're water based and have different formulations from enamels, so they react less severely to skin oils.

There are a couple of reasons to apply kleer. One is to seal the paint so it can't get damaged by any weathering techniques you may use, and the other is to get a smooth glossy surface on which to apply the decals so they don't silver. If you want a flat finish after weathering and decalling, you then spray on a coat of clear flat finish. It can also be brushed on, but it doesn't quite look the same.
nandith
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India / भारत
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Posted: Monday, May 07, 2012 - 06:49 PM UTC
ok thanks. I have tamiya too but they dry really fast.Also how do you paint white over large surfaces i always have problems getting a good homogeneous coat
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 02:18 AM UTC
Brush painting white is always difficult. Try using two coats and brushing in two different directions. I gave up on brushing white years ago and now I use spray cans for that.
nandith
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India / भारत
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 04:52 AM UTC
LOL thought i just sucked. ok one last question are there any alternatives to that klear solution? there is n art store near my house that sells this winsor and newton varnishes for matt and gloss but thats for art enthusiasts. Do you think i should go ahead and purchase those?
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 08:05 AM UTC
Oh, you're not alone with the whites. Before I started with airbrushes, I hated painting pure whites and avoided them. A light primer helps a lot even when airbrushing whites as well.

I can't comment on the so called art varnishes. Basically, I reckon they should be similar, but I have a feeling they might also have different characteristic than those commonly used with scale models. Viscosity, for example.

From what I've heard, Tamiya acrylics are notoriusly tricky to brush paint well, though not impossible. Superb when airbrushing, I've been told.

Just about every modeling paint range tends to have matt and gloss varnish in them too.

About the Klear floor polish, I bet there's a good chance there's a local alternative. They come with different names in different countries, even if they're by the same company.
Look for an acrylic gloss floor polish.

nandith
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India / भारत
Joined: May 07, 2012
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Posted: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 - 07:03 PM UTC
thanks so much im doing an airfix helldiver now hopefully will put up the pics soon.
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