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Decal Dilemas

What to do (cont.)

I usually do the underside decals first, just to see how they will react. If there’s a problem it’s not so noticeable on the underside. I will then do the main markings on the upper surfaces. Some times after curing the decals may not have sunk completely into the panel lines. If this happens I run the point of wooden cocktail stick gently over the panel line. This usually does the trick.

For the small decals I use a wooden cocktail stick to move them into final position. This gives more control than using a paintbrush-just be gentle.

When all the decals are on and have been allowed to dry for a day or two, wipe off any excess glue and setting solution with a clean cloth dipped in clean water.

At the beginning I mentioned the thickness of the decals and that some brands are thicker than others. If this thickness is not dealt with subsequent washes and weathering will show the edges of the decals the same as any other raised detail. Two more hand brushed coats of Klear (Future) will hide the edges. Ideally you would want to level off the surface but this may require multiple coats which could fill in the engraved detail as well. You will see in the picture showing the "DW" that the carrier film is showing. This is not silvering but simply that the decals are glossier than the finish achieved with 2 coats of Klear (Future). If I had used 4 coats of Klear (Future) then this would not be the case. The problem is the edges of the decals would still be there, requiring still, at least 2 more coats. Two thin coats of Klear (Future) do not give a high gloss finish. They will, however make the surface smooth enough for the clear carrier film not to silver. Now, even if the carrier film remains visible, (as it does on the no walk stencils over the wheel wells) the final matt coat will make it disappear.